Family Adventure in the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

A Day Among Giants

Today, Yakushima revealed another layer of its enchanting soul. The air was thick with moisture, carrying the scent of cedar and moss, as Lila, Hans-Peter, and I ventured deeper into the island's embrace. It felt like stepping into a world untouched by time, a sanctuary where nature reigns supreme.

Our day began, as always, with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe. I enjoyed the traditional Japanese breakfast, savoring the subtle flavors that prepared me for the day's adventure. Lila, predictably, opted for something sweet, while Hans-Peter enjoyed his usual coffee. Fuelled up, we set off towards the Shiratani Unsui Gorge.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.
The drive itself was an experience. The winding mountain roads offered glimpses of the vast Pacific Ocean, a shimmering expanse that contrasted beautifully with the dense forests we were about to enter. I couldn't help but think of my homeland, Ethiopia, and the stark differences in landscape. Yet, both places hold a certain magic, a unique connection to the earth that resonates deep within me.

Shiratani Unsui Gorge was breathtaking. The forest floor was carpeted in a vibrant green moss, a scene straight out of a fairy tale. Towering Yakusugi cedars, some over a thousand years old, stood as silent witnesses to the passage of time. Lila was captivated, her eyes wide with wonder as she skipped along the trail. Even Hans-Peter, usually engrossed in his thoughts, seemed to be genuinely moved by the serene beauty of the gorge.

We chose a moderate hiking trail, wanting to soak in the atmosphere without exhausting Lila. The paths were well-maintained, a testament to the care and respect the Japanese have for their natural heritage. As we walked, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace wash over me. The sounds of the city faded away, replaced by the gentle murmur of the river and the rustling of leaves. It was a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of Munich. I made sure we were all wearing appropriate hiking boots, especially considering the rainfall in the area, and I was glad I had the foresight to pack our rain gear. I made a mental note to buy sunscreen and insect repellent at a local shop, as I had forgotten to pack them in Munich.

In the heart of Yakushima, time seems to slow, allowing the ancient whispers of the forest to guide your soul.

One of the highlights of Shiratani Unsui Gorge was undoubtedly the moss-covered forest, which is said to have inspired the movie 'Princess Mononoke'. As a fan of Studio Ghibli, I was thrilled to be walking through a landscape that had sparked such creativity. Lila, of course, was even more excited, imagining herself as the film's heroine, exploring the enchanted woods.

After a satisfying morning hike, we drove to the Yakushima Gallery Restaurant for lunch. The restaurant offered stunning views of the surrounding mountains, and the food was delicious. We enjoyed a variety of local dishes, including fresh seafood and mountain vegetables. Lila, surprisingly, tried everything, even the more adventurous options. Perhaps the fresh air had awakened her appetite.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.
Our next stop was Wilson's Stump, another iconic landmark of Yakushima. The sheer size of the stump was astonishing. It's hard to imagine the tree that once stood there, a giant of the forest, felled centuries ago. Inside the stump, a small spring trickled, and a tiny shrine offered a place for quiet reflection.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.
The story of Wilson's Stump is fascinating. Named after the British botanist Ernest Henry Wilson, who documented it in the early 20th century, the stump is believed to be over 3,000 years old. It was supposedly cut down in the 16th century, under the orders of a warlord who needed the wood to build a temple in Kyoto. Standing inside the hollow, looking up at the heart-shaped opening to the sky, I felt a deep connection to the past, to the generations of people who have lived and worked on this island.

Lila was particularly intrigued by the heart-shaped opening, trying to capture the perfect photo with her small camera. Hans-Peter, ever the pragmatist, was more interested in the engineering feat of cutting down such a massive tree with the tools available at the time. As for me, I simply stood in silence, absorbing the energy of the place, feeling the weight of history and the resilience of nature.

As the day drew to a close, we headed to Wakadaisho for dinner. This cozy restaurant is known for its fresh seafood and warm hospitality. We enjoyed a delicious meal of grilled fish, rice, and miso soup. The owner, a friendly woman with a warm smile, told us stories about the island and its people. It was a perfect end to a perfect day.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.
Before heading back to our Ryokan, we stopped by Cafe&Bar RainTree for a nightcap. I enjoyed a glass of local sake, while Hans-Peter opted for a Japanese beer. Lila, of course, had a soft drink. The atmosphere was relaxed and convivial, a mix of locals and tourists sharing stories and laughter. As I sipped my sake, I reflected on the day's adventures. Yakushima had once again exceeded my expectations, revealing its beauty and its soul in unexpected ways.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe&Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.
Tomorrow, we plan to hike to Jōmon Sugi, the island's most ancient and revered cedar. It will be a longer and more challenging hike, but I am eager to see this magnificent tree, a living testament to the power and endurance of nature. I'm sure Lila will enjoy Pukaridō afterwards, to buy some souvenirs.

As I write this, the sound of rain patters softly against the window. It's a soothing sound, a reminder of the island's life-giving waters. I feel grateful for this opportunity to explore Yakushima with my family, to share its wonders with Lila, and to reconnect with the natural world. I am also grateful that I get to share my experiences with you, my readers. Good night from Yakushima!