Family Heritage Journey to Harar

Day 4: Whispers of the Walls: Exploring Harar's Ancient Gates and Spiritual Sanctuaries

Journey through Harar's historic Asmadin Gate and serene Aw Abdal Mosque, savoring local flavors and cultural brews with loved ones.

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A Day of Discovery in the Walled City


Today, Harar unfolded its secrets in layers, a beautiful blend of history, spirituality, and the simple joys of family. It’s amazing how much a place can change, yet how deeply it can remain the same. Sharing this with Hans-Peter and Lila makes it all the more special, as I watch them connect with a part of me that they’ve only heard stories about.

Our day began with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee at Jugal Cafe&Fast Food. It's a humble place, but the coffee was robust, just the way I remember it from my childhood. Sipping it, I felt a surge of nostalgia, sharing stories with Hans-Peter and Lila about my own childhood in Harar. Lila was particularly fascinated, asking endless questions about school, games, and the mischievous things I used to do. It was heartwarming to see her curiosity piqued by her heritage.

After breakfast, we set out to explore the ancient walls of Harar, starting with the Asmadin Gate. The gate itself is a testament to the city's enduring history, a silent sentinel that has witnessed centuries of trade, conflict, and cultural exchange. As we walked through it, I imagined the caravans of old, laden with goods from distant lands, passing through this very same portal. I tried to paint a picture for Lila, describing the vibrant colors of the fabrics, the exotic spices, and the bustling energy of the merchants. Hans-Peter, ever the pragmatist, was more interested in the architectural details, pointing out the intricate carvings and the ingenious design that had allowed the gate to withstand the test of time.

Discover the historical significance of Asmadin Gate, a stunning landmark in Harar, Ethiopia, and immerse yourself in the city's rich cultural heritage.
Discover the historical significance of Asmadin Gate, a stunning landmark in Harar, Ethiopia, and immerse yourself in the city's rich cultural heritage.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are those that lead us back to where we began, allowing us to see our origins with new eyes and a deeper appreciation.


Walking along the walls, I felt a sense of pride, knowing that this was a place that had shaped me, instilled in me a love for history, culture, and community. I pointed out various landmarks to Lila, explaining their significance, and watching her eyes widen with wonder. It was a moment of profound connection, a sharing of identity that transcended generations and continents.

Our next stop was the Aw Abdal Mosque, a serene sanctuary that offered a respite from the bustling city. The mosque is a place of quiet contemplation, its simple architecture and peaceful atmosphere inviting reflection. As we entered, I felt a sense of calm wash over me, a feeling of being grounded and connected to something larger than myself. I explained to Hans-Peter and Lila the importance of the mosque in the local community, how it serves as a place of worship, education, and social gathering. While we couldn't enter the prayer hall itself, we were able to admire the intricate details of the exterior, the delicate carvings, and the beautiful calligraphy.

Explore the Aw Abdal Mosque in Harar, Ethiopia, where spirituality meets stunning architecture in a vibrant cultural setting.
Explore the Aw Abdal Mosque in Harar, Ethiopia, where spirituality meets stunning architecture in a vibrant cultural setting.

For lunch, we ventured to Dire Xayara, a local eatery that serves traditional Harari cuisine. I was eager for Hans-Peter and Lila to experience the flavors of my childhood, the spices, and aromas that evoke so many memories. We ordered a variety of dishes, including *shiro wat*, a flavorful stew made from ground chickpeas, and *kitfo*, a minced meat dish seasoned with spices and butter. Lila was a bit hesitant at first, unsure of the unfamiliar flavors, but she soon warmed up to the food, declaring the *shiro wat* her favorite. Hans-Peter, always the adventurous eater, dove right in, savoring each dish and asking questions about the ingredients and preparation methods. It was a joy to watch them embrace the local cuisine, to see them step outside their comfort zones and discover new culinary delights.

Discover authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Dire Xayara in Harar - where every dish reflects tradition and flavor.
Discover authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Dire Xayara in Harar - where every dish reflects tradition and flavor.

After lunch, we decided to take a break and visit the Harar Brewery S.C. While I don't usually drink a lot of beer, I knew that this was a local institution, a place where people gather to socialize and unwind. Plus, I was curious to see how the brewery had changed since my childhood. The brewery was bustling with activity, locals chatting and laughing over glasses of beer. We found a table in the courtyard and ordered a round of the local brew. It was surprisingly good, crisp and refreshing, the perfect antidote to the afternoon heat. Lila, of course, stuck to soda, but she enjoyed the lively atmosphere, watching the people and soaking in the local vibe. Hans-Peter and I reminisced about our own youthful escapades, the times we had snuck out to local bars and taverns, eager to experience the adult world. It was a time of innocence and rebellion, a time of forging friendships and discovering ourselves.

Experience the essence of Ethiopian brewing at Harar Brewery S.C., where local flavors and rich traditions come together.
Experience the essence of Ethiopian brewing at Harar Brewery S.C., where local flavors and rich traditions come together.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Safi Restaurant for dinner. It's another local favorite, known for its traditional Ethiopian dishes and warm hospitality. We ordered a feast, including *injera*, a spongy flatbread, and a variety of stews and curries. The food was delicious, the flavors rich and complex, and the portions generous. We ate our fill, savoring each bite and enjoying the company of our fellow diners. Lila, tired from a day of exploring, snuggled up next to me, her eyes half-closed, content and at peace. It was a perfect end to a perfect day, a day filled with history, culture, and the simple joys of family.

Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Safi Restaurant in Harar – where every dish tells a story.
Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Safi Restaurant in Harar – where every dish tells a story.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Bekri's Garden and the Harari National Museum. I'm particularly excited about the museum, as I've heard that it has an impressive collection of artifacts and exhibits that showcase the history and culture of Harar. And, of course, we’ll need to sample the local fare at Central Hotle Harar, Tokicha.oromo, and HADI Cafe and Restaurant - ሐዲ ካፌና ሬስቶራንት - Mana Nayaataa HADI. I also want to find some unique souvenirs at Zinnira Collection. I’m hoping to find something special for my friends back in Munich, something that captures the essence of Harar and its unique spirit.

As I reflect on today, I am filled with a sense of gratitude. Gratitude for the opportunity to share my heritage with my family, gratitude for the chance to reconnect with my roots, and gratitude for the simple joys of life. Harar has a way of getting under your skin, of weaving its magic into your soul. It's a place that stays with you long after you've left, a place that calls you back time and time again. And I know, without a doubt, that this won't be my last visit. I already feel the pull, the yearning to return, to explore more of its hidden corners, to delve deeper into its rich history, and to share its beauty with those I love.
Go to day 3 Hyenas, History, and Harari Hospitality: A Day of Wonders
Go to day 5 A Day of Discovery: Gardens, Museums, and Harari Culture
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Family Heritage Journey to Harar

Explore the rich culture and history of Harar with my family as we reconnect with my Ethiopian roots on a memorable 9-day journey.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Abebech Tadesse-Schmidt
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Freelance Translator and Cultural Consultant
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 42

Selam! I'm Abebech, a freelance translator and cultural consultant originally from Harar, Ethiopia, but now living in Munich, Germany. Through this blog, I share my passion for travel, culture, and sustainable living. Join me as I explore the world, offering insights into unique destinations, cultural experiences, and responsible travel practices. Whether you're a culturally curious traveler, an expat seeking to connect with your heritage, or simply interested in learning about Ethiopia and its diaspora, I hope to inspire you to embark on your own adventures and embrace the beauty of our diverse world.

Interests:
  • Ethiopian history and culture
  • Language learning
  • Global cuisine
  • Sustainable living
  • Photography
More about Abebech Tadesse-Schmidt

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Explore locations from this diary

  • Asmadin Gate

    Discover the historical significance of Asmadin Gate, a stunning landmark in Harar, Ethiopia, and immerse yourself in the city's rich cultural heritage.

  • Aw Abdal Mosque

    Explore the Aw Abdal Mosque in Harar, Ethiopia, where spirituality meets stunning architecture in a vibrant cultural setting.

  • Jugal Cafe&Fast Food

    Experience authentic Ethiopian flavors at Jugal Cafe & Fast Food in Harar – where tradition meets taste.

  • Dire Xayara

    Discover authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Dire Xayara in Harar - where every dish reflects tradition and flavor.

  • Safi restaurant

    Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Safi Restaurant in Harar – where every dish tells a story.

  • Harar Brewery S.C.

    Experience the essence of Ethiopian brewing at Harar Brewery S.C., where local flavors and rich traditions come together.

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