Andrea's Artistic Exploration on Naoshima Island

Illuminations in the Dark

Today was a day of contrasts, a journey into the heart of Naoshima's art scene that played with light and shadow, presence and absence. It was a day that reminded me why I came here: to lose myself in art and find a new perspective on the world.

My morning began with a simple yet satisfying breakfast at Café Ippo. The café had a cozy atmosphere, and the Japanese coffee and traditional snacks were just what I needed to start the day. It reminded me of the small, family-run cafes back in Arezzo. The friendly staff, including a lovely elderly Japanese lady, made me feel welcome and ready for the day’s artistic explorations.


Discover Café Ippo in Naoshima: A delightful fusion of authentic Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality awaits you in this charming café.

My first stop was the Art House Project, specifically Minamidera. I'd heard whispers about James Turrell's work here, but nothing could have prepared me for the experience. Securing a reservation was essential, and I was glad I'd planned ahead. The anticipation built as I waited outside, watching previous visitors emerge, their faces a mixture of confusion and awe. Stepping inside Ando Tadao's structure was like entering another world – or rather, another dimension.


Discover the Art House Project: Minamidera in Naoshima, where modern art meets traditional Japanese architecture in a serene setting.

The complete and utter darkness was disorienting, a sensory deprivation that forced me to rely on my other senses. Gradually, shapes began to emerge from the void, subtle gradations of light that played tricks on my eyes. It was an exercise in perception, a reminder that what we see is not always what is there. The experience was both unnerving and profoundly moving, a testament to the power of art to challenge our understanding of reality. It reminded me of the importance of slowing down and truly seeing, a lesson I often try to impart to Lasse when we're working on woodworking projects together.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Leaving Minamidera, blinking in the sunlight, I needed a moment to gather myself before heading to the Lee Ufan Museum. This museum, a collaboration between the artist Lee Ufan and architect Tadao Ando, offered a completely different experience. Nestled in a quiet valley, the museum is a sanctuary of minimalist art, where the interplay of stone, steel, and light creates a sense of serene contemplation. The exhibits, primarily from the 1970s to the present, invite reflection on the relationships between space, object, and viewer. The natural light and gentle sloping lawns added to the peaceful atmosphere. It was a place where art met nature, leaving me refreshed in both body and mind.


Explore the serene Lee Ufan Museum in Naoshima, where modern art meets nature in a harmonious blend of minimalism and tranquility.

I found myself drawn to the subtle nuances of Lee Ufan's work, the way he used simple materials to create complex and thought-provoking pieces. His series, Relatum, seemed to echo the sentiments of my own life, the way I've pieced together a life between Italy and Denmark, finding harmony in the contrasts. It reminded me of the quiet satisfaction I find in restoring antique furniture, bringing new life to forgotten objects.

For lunch, I ventured to Ebisukamo, a local izakaya in Honmura village. This cozy spot offered a lengthy menu of seafood-based dishes. The clams in sake were delicious, and the yellowtail sashimi was incredibly fresh. It felt like dining in a close friend's living room, and the staff were friendly and welcoming.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Ebisukamo on Naoshima Island—where local flavors meet serene beauty.

With the afternoon sun beginning its descent, I made my way to the iconic Red Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama. As the ferry approached Miyanoura Port, the vivid red shape, covered in black polka dots, was impossible to miss. It’s more than just a landmark; it's an invitation into a world where art blends seamlessly with nature and local life. The contrast between the organic shape of the pumpkin and the geometric precision of the dots was striking, a visual representation of the tension between chaos and order.


Explore the vibrant Red Pumpkin in Naoshima, a masterpiece of contemporary art by Yayoi Kusama, set against stunning coastal views.

Stepping inside the sculpture, I peered through the dotted apertures, watching the ferries come and go. The surrounding scenery appeared slightly distorted, framed by Kusama's hallucination-inspired patterns. It was whimsical and disorienting, capturing a glimpse of the surreal world through the artist's eyes. It struck me as a perfect metaphor for travel itself – a journey that distorts our perceptions and offers new perspectives on the familiar.

Dinner at Yuunagi was a delightful experience. Located across from Umi no Eki Naoshima, this restaurant specializes in dishes made with flounder from Naoshima's Noumi Coast. I opted for the flounder teishoku, a set meal that included sashimi, grilled fish, and a flavorful miso soup. The Naoshima salt-vanilla soft ice cream was the perfect way to end the meal.


Discover Yuunagi: A Seafood Haven on Naoshima Island Offering Authentic Japanese Teishoku Cuisine.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself at Bar SARU, a small, unassuming bar near the port. The atmosphere was laid-back and welcoming, with surf videos playing on the television and a mellow soundtrack. I ordered a local beer, Naoshima Monogatari, and sat at the small counter, chatting with the bartender about the island's art scene. The bar was filled with a mix of locals and tourists, all drawn to Naoshima by its unique charm. The bartender explained that the beer utilized Cascade hops and had a refreshing herbal aroma. It was the perfect place to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences.


Discover the vibrant nightlife of Naoshima at Bar SARU, where local beers and a cozy atmosphere await every traveler.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, I plan to explore the Ando Museum, Art House Project: Go'o Shrine, and Miyanoura Gallery 6. I'm also hoping to find some time to visit the Art Island Center and pick up a few souvenirs for Astrid and Lasse. I know they'll both appreciate a little piece of Naoshima to bring home.

Tonight, as I sit here writing, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this extraordinary island. Naoshima is more than just an art destination; it's a place that challenges you to see the world in new ways, to embrace the unexpected, and to find beauty in the everyday. And as a restorer of antique furniture, I appreciate the beauty of preserving and restoring old things, and Naoshima does that with its old houses and shrines turned into art. It's a place I know I'll never forget.

I think I'll sleep well tonight.