Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past

Today was a day of deep reflection and exploration as I continued my pilgrimage through the Kumano Kodo. The air was thick with humidity, a typical August warmth that reminded me of the Caribbean heat back home. But the spiritual energy of this place is something else entirely, a serene contrast to the bustling streets of Toronto. I set out early, eager to immerse myself in the history and natural beauty that awaited me.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Jokiin [i]. The simple, traditional Japanese fare was the perfect fuel for the day's adventures. I savored every bite, knowing I had a lot of ground to cover. It's funny how a quiet meal can set the tone for the entire day, giving me a sense of calm and focus before stepping out into the world.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

First on the itinerary was Kumano Hayatama Taisha in Shingu, Wakayama Prefecture. This grand shrine, part of the Kumano Sanzan, stands proudly on the shores of the Kumanogawa River. As I approached, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at its presence. The shrine is said to have been built to worship the gods who descended on Gotobiki-iwa Rock, a sacred spot I'd be visiting later. The main deities here are Kumano Hayatama no Okami and Kumano Fusumi no Okami, a husband and wife. It's comforting to think of these ancient deities watching over the land, their presence a constant throughout the centuries.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

The journey is the destination, and every step on the Kumano Kodo is a step closer to understanding myself and the world around me.

The grounds of Kumano Hayatama Taisha are meticulously maintained, with vibrant colors and intricate details adorning the buildings. I took my time to wander around, admiring the architecture and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. There's an ancient Nagi tree on the grounds, said to be over 1,000 years old. It’s considered a natural monument by the Japanese government. I paused to touch its bark, feeling a connection to the past and the generations of pilgrims who have come before me.

After exploring the shrine, I decided to visit the Kumano Shimpokan, the Sacred Treasure Museum. Inside, I was treated to a display of over 1,200 treasures, including Makie-hand boxes and Japanese cypress fans from the Muromachi era. It was incredible to see these artifacts up close, each one telling a story of devotion and craftsmanship. The history here is palpable, a reminder of the rich cultural heritage of this region. I couldn't help but think of Devon and Priya, wondering what they would make of all this history. I made a mental note to bring them here someday, to share in this experience.

Next on my list was Kamikura Shrine, a place I had been particularly excited about. This ancient shrine is located halfway up Mt. Gongen-yama, and it's said to be where the gods first descended to earth. Getting there required climbing 538 steep stone steps. I'll admit, the climb was a bit challenging in the August heat, which is around 28-29°C (84°F) with high humidity. I had to stop a few times to catch my breath and wipe the sweat from my brow. But as I ascended, the views became more and more breathtaking, and I knew the effort would be worth it.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

Reaching the top, I was greeted by the sight of Gotobiki-iwa, a massive, sacred rock revered as the dwelling place of one of the shrine's deities. The rock itself is awe-inspiring, a testament to the power of nature and the enduring beliefs of the people who have worshipped here for centuries. The view from the shrine was spectacular, overlooking the entire Shingu area and the Kumano-nada Sea. I could see why this place is considered so sacred; there's a sense of being connected to something larger than myself.

I spent some time at the shrine, taking in the panoramic views and reflecting on my journey so far. It's amazing how these ancient sites can transport you to another time, allowing you to connect with the past in a tangible way. I thought about my own spiritual journey, how far I've come since leaving Princes Town, and how much more there is to discover. This pilgrimage is not just about seeing new places; it's about finding new perspectives and deepening my understanding of myself and the world.

For lunch, I stopped at Takehara [i]. The restaurant was a welcome respite from the heat, and the food was delicious. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese meal, savoring the flavors and appreciating the simple elegance of the cuisine. It's these small moments of culinary delight that often become some of the most memorable parts of my travels.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

After lunch, I made a stop at the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu [i]. This roadside station is a great place to pick up local souvenirs and snacks. I browsed the shelves, looking for something unique to bring back to Priya and Devon. I ended up buying some local crafts and a few treats, knowing they would appreciate the thought. It's these little gestures that keep us connected, even when I'm miles away.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself at KUMANOYASAI CAFE for dinner [i]. This cozy cafe offered a relaxing atmosphere and a menu filled with local, seasonal ingredients. I opted for a vegetarian dish, wanting to sample the regional produce. The meal was fresh and flavorful, a perfect end to a day of exploration. I enjoyed a cup of green tea, reflecting on everything I had seen and experienced.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Oyunohara and Tsugizakura-Oji [i]. I'm looking forward to seeing the giant Torii gate at Oyunohara, which marks the original site of the Kumano Hongu Taisha. I'm also excited to explore Tsugizakura-Oji, known for its ancient cherry trees and serene atmosphere. And, if I'm feeling up to it, I might even check out HANGOVER bar for a nightcap, though I suspect I'll be ready for bed after another day of hiking [i].

Today was a reminder of why I embarked on this pilgrimage in the first place: to connect with something deeper, to find peace and inspiration in the beauty of nature and the wisdom of ancient traditions. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a journey of the soul, and I'm grateful for every step along the way.

As I settle in for the night, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude for this incredible journey. The Kumano Kodo has already exceeded my expectations, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings. Goodnight from Japan!

The Oto Matsuri fire festival is held every year on February 6 at Kamikura Shrine. During the festival, men dressed in white rush down the 538 steps from the summit to the base of the mountain while carrying torches. This is done to renew the sacred fire, symbolizing preparations for the new year ahead.