Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

Finding Peace on the Path

Today was a day of deep reflection and connection with nature as I continued my solo pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo. The ancient trail offered moments of both physical challenge and profound peace, allowing me to immerse myself fully in the spiritual heart of Japan. It's amazing how a simple walk can clear the mind and invigorate the soul.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Jokiin, my serene retreat in Koya. After a peaceful night's sleep, fueling up with a traditional Japanese breakfast set the tone for a day of exploration and introspection. I savored each bite, knowing that the day ahead would be filled with both physical exertion and spiritual discovery. It's funny, I've never been one for quiet contemplation, always needing some soca music in the background, but this pilgrimage is changing me.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.
With my stomach full and my spirit ready, I set out to tackle the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route (Chikatsuyu-Oji - Kobiro-Oji Section), specifically the section from Chikatsuyu-Oji to Kobiro-Oji. The trail meandered through the lush landscapes of Wakayama Prefecture, a UNESCO World Heritage site that beckons outdoor enthusiasts and spiritual seekers alike. As I walked, I was enveloped by verdant forests, ancient cedar trees, and picturesque mountain views. The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. It was a photographer's paradise, and I found myself stopping frequently to capture the beauty around me. I even managed to snap a few shots that I think Priya would love; she always appreciates a good landscape photo.


Journey through the stunning Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, where nature, history, and spirituality intertwine in Japan's sacred landscape.
The path was well-marked, making it accessible for both novice and seasoned hikers. I found the hike challenging but rewarding, with some sections presenting steep inclines that tested my stamina. Along the way, I encountered ancient shrines and resting places, each with its own story of devotion and reverence. These sacred sites, once frequented by pilgrims on their way to Kumano Sanzan, added a layer of historical depth to my journey. Each step I took felt like a step through time, connecting me to the countless souls who had walked this path before me.

The beauty of the Kumano Kodo isn't just in its stunning landscapes, but in the profound sense of peace and connection it fosters within.

Midday found me at the Watarase onsen cafe, a delightful spot to recharge and indulge in a satisfying lunch. I opted for a traditional Japanese meal, complete with miso soup, rice, and grilled fish. The cafe provided a welcome respite, and I enjoyed chatting with fellow hikers, exchanging stories and tips about the trail. It was a reminder that even on a solo journey, there's always a sense of community to be found. I have to admit, the food wasn't quite Priya's cooking, but it definitely hit the spot.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.
Refreshed and energized, I continued my hike through the Yoshino Kumano National Park. This park, spanning across Mie, Nara, and Wakayama Prefectures, is a haven of geographical diversity and spiritual significance. As I ventured deeper into the park, the landscape transformed, revealing vast mountain ranges, highland plateaus, and the dense rainforests of the Kii Peninsula. The park is known for receiving some of the highest amounts of rainfall in Japan, which contributes to its lush greenery and majestic waterfalls.


Explore the breathtaking beauty of Yoshino Kumano National Park, a serene escape into nature's heart in Japan's Nara Prefecture, rich in culture and adventure.
The trails within Yoshino Kumano National Park offered a mix of challenging treks and easier walks, allowing me to tailor my experience to my energy levels. I encountered diverse ecosystems, spotting various bird species and other wildlife along the way. The park is home to endangered Asian black bears and Japanese serows, adding an element of excitement to my hike. I kept my eyes peeled, hoping to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures, but contented myself with the knowledge that I was sharing their habitat.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Kakinoate for dinner, eager to sample more of the local cuisine. The restaurant exuded a warm and inviting atmosphere, and I was greeted by friendly staff who were eager to share their culinary creations. I indulged in a multi-course meal featuring regional specialties, each dish a testament to the rich flavors of the Kumano region. The meal was a perfect ending to a day of physical exertion and spiritual reflection.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.
With the sun setting, I decided to treat myself to a relaxing evening at the Kumano Club Resort bar. The bar offered a cozy and inviting atmosphere, perfect for unwinding after a long day on the trail. I sipped on a local craft beer, reflecting on the day's experiences and the profound sense of peace I had found along the Kumano Kodo. The resort also offered spa services, including massages and body wraps, but I decided to save those for another time.


Discover the serene beauty of Kumano Club Resort, a perfect blend of Japanese hospitality and natural tranquility in Mie Prefecture.
Tomorrow marks the final day of my pilgrimage, and I plan to make the most of it by exploring the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route and the Koyazaka Slope. I'll start with another nourishing breakfast at Jokiin before embarking on my final day of hiking. For lunch, I'm planning to try the Sansaro Cafe, and for a final celebratory dinner, Tororoya. I might even pick up a souvenir at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center to remember this incredible journey.

This solo journey has been more than just a hike; it's been a chance to reconnect with myself and appreciate the simple beauty of the world around me. I am so grateful for this experience and the opportunity to explore the spiritual heart of Japan. I can't wait to share all of my stories with Priya and Devon when I get back home. Maybe I can even convince them to join me on a similar adventure next time. Until then, I'll carry the peace and tranquility of the Kumano Kodo with me, wherever I go.

The Kumano Kodo has been an experience of a lifetime, a journey that has touched my soul and broadened my perspective. As I prepare for my final day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and anticipation, eager to embrace whatever adventures lie ahead. This pilgrimage has reminded me of the importance of taking time for oneself, of connecting with nature, and of finding peace within. It's a lesson I will carry with me long after I leave this sacred path.