Exploring the Wild Beauty of Hortobagy National Park with Friends

Whispers of the Puszta

Today was a day of wandering and wonder, a day where the vastness of the Hortobágy whispered its secrets to us. It was a day of immersing ourselves in the raw beauty of this landscape, a place where the sky feels closer and the earth stretches out endlessly. It's days like these that remind me why I traded the predictable comfort of a city for the unpredictable allure of the open road.

Our day began, as most days here do, with a hearty breakfast at the Hortobágyi Csárda. This charming inn, a landmark in itself, is where we found ourselves fueling up for the day's adventures with traditional Hungarian fare. I opted for the *pörkölt* (stew), a dish that always reminds me of my grandmother's cooking – hearty, comforting, and full of flavour. Hans went for the sausage, Saoirse, ever predictable, chose pancakes. Fortified and ready, we set off to explore the Hajdúság Landscape-protection Area.


Discover the breathtaking landscapes and diverse wildlife of Hajdúság Landscape-protection Area, a must-visit destination for nature lovers in Hungary.
The drive itself was a treat, the landscape unfolding before us like a painting. The seemingly endless plains, dotted with grazing livestock and the occasional shepherd, gave way to the more varied terrain of the Hajdúság. This area is a mosaic of habitats, from wetlands teeming with birdlife to grasslands stretching towards the horizon. We parked the car and decided to explore on foot, eager to stretch our legs and breathe in the fresh, clean air. I must admit, I did miss my portable phone charger, especially since I wanted to take a lot of pictures, but I tried to preserve as much battery as I could.

As we walked, the landscape unfolded before us, revealing its subtle beauty. The area is celebrated for its diverse ecosystems and commitment to preserving the natural beauty of the region. The trails wound through lush greenery, wetlands, and rolling hills. We were immediately struck by the sheer variety of birdlife. I, with my trusty binoculars – a must on any trip like this – spotted lapwings, redshanks, and a couple of great egrets wading in the shallows. Saoirse was particularly excited, ticking them off in her little notebook with the enthusiasm only a twelve-year-old can muster. Hans, ever the pragmatist, was more interested in the flora, identifying various species of grasses and wildflowers. It was a perfect example of how we all experience a place in our own unique way.

Sometimes, the greatest adventures are found not in grand monuments, but in the quiet corners of the world, where nature whispers its ancient stories.

After a good few hours of wandering through the Hajdúság Landscape-protection Area, we decided to head towards our next destination: Szálkahalmi tanösvény Parkoló. Now, the name might not exactly roll off the tongue, but this place is a real gem. It’s essentially a starting point for a nature trail that winds through some of the most fascinating habitats in the Hortobágy. The trail itself is relatively short, only about two kilometers, making it perfect for a leisurely afternoon stroll.


Discover the serene beauty of Szálkahalmi Tanösvény Parkoló, an enchanting destination in Hungary for nature lovers and adventure seekers.
What makes this trail so special is the chance to get up close and personal with the unique *szikes* (alkaline) landscape that defines much of the Hortobágy. These areas, characterized by their salty soils and sparse vegetation, might not sound all that appealing, but they possess a stark, otherworldly beauty. As we walked, we noticed the ground beneath our feet changing, the soil becoming paler, almost white in places. The plants here are specially adapted to these harsh conditions, many of them being rare or endemic species. I found myself captivated by the intricate patterns of the salt crystals on the surface of the soil, each one a tiny work of art.

The Szálkahalmi tanösvény also offers a glimpse into the area's history. The trail gets its name from a nearby *kurgán*, an ancient burial mound dating back thousands of years. These mounds, built by nomadic peoples who once roamed these plains, serve as a reminder of the long and rich history of this landscape. Saoirse, who has recently become obsessed with archaeology, was thrilled to climb to the top of the mound, imagining what life must have been like for those who built it so long ago. It always warms my heart to see her curiousity sparked.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to pay a visit to Hortobágy Wild Animal Park. Located a short drive from the village of Hortobágy, this park is home to many of the animals that once roamed the *puszta* before the arrival of modern agriculture. Here, we saw wolves, wild horses, jackals, and even pelicans – creatures that have largely disappeared from the Hungarian landscape. The park offers a safari-like experience, with visitors transported around the enclosures in a special bus. It felt a bit touristy, to be honest, but it was still a great opportunity to see these magnificent animals up close. Saoirse was particularly taken with the Przewalski's horses, the last truly wild horses on earth. Their stocky build and dun-colored coats were a stark contrast to the sleek, domesticated breeds we are used to seeing.


Discover the enchanting Hortobágy Wild Animal Park, a wildlife sanctuary featuring diverse species and educational experiences in a stunning natural setting.
Before heading back to our campsite, we made one last stop at the Hortobágyi Csárda for dinner. We sat outside on the terrace, watching the sun set over the *puszta*, the sky ablaze with colour. The air was filled with the sounds of gypsy music, the mournful melodies adding to the atmosphere. As we ate, we reflected on the day's adventures, the memories we had made, and the beauty we had witnessed. We ate well, and the familiar tastes of the Hortobágyi Csárda provided a welcome comfort.

Tomorrow, we plan to attend the Behajtási Ünnep és Darufesztivál, a crane festival. I'm particularly excited about this, as I've heard that the Hortobágy is one of the most important stopover points for migrating cranes in Europe. Apparently, tens of thousands of these birds gather here in the autumn before continuing their journey south. It promises to be a truly spectacular sight, and I can't wait to share it with you all. I am already looking forward to it.

As I sit here now, writing this by the flickering light of our campfire, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for this experience. The Hortobágy is a place that gets under your skin, a place that challenges your perceptions and awakens your senses. It’s a place where you can truly connect with nature, with history, and with yourself. If you ever have the chance to visit, don’t hesitate. You won’t be disappointed.

Until tomorrow, *sziasztok* (goodbye) from the *puszta*.