Exploring the Wild Beauty of Iceland's Snaefellsnes Peninsula

A Day of Unexpected Icelandic Delights

The Snaefellsnes Peninsula continues to surprise and enchant. Today was a blend of iconic landscapes, culinary courage, and charming local encounters. It’s funny how sometimes the things you anticipate the most become secondary to the unexpected gems you stumble upon along the way. This was one of those days, filled with laughter, a little bit of trepidation, and a whole lot of Icelandic charm.

Our day began, as most do on this trip, with a hearty breakfast. We fueled up at Skipper Restaurant in Ólafsvík. I opted for the traditional skyr with berries, while the others went for more substantial fare like eggs and bacon. We needed the energy for what lay ahead!


Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Skipper Restaurant in Stykkishólmur, where fresh seafood meets local flavors in a cozy setting.

First on the agenda was the majestic Kirkjufell Mountain and its accompanying waterfall, Kirkjufellsfossar. I had seen countless photos of this iconic landmark, often dubbed the most photographed mountain in Iceland, but nothing truly prepares you for its imposing presence. Even in April, with the landscape still holding onto the last vestiges of winter, the mountain commanded attention. The way the light played on its slopes, the cascading water of the falls – it was a photographer’s dream, even for an amateur like myself. Saoirse, ever the budding photographer, was particularly enthralled, snapping away with her little camera, trying to capture the perfect angle. I must admit, I was rather proud seeing her so excited, remembering my own youthful fascination with capturing the perfect shot back in Westport.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Kirkjufell Mountain, an iconic peak in Iceland, where nature's artistry meets adventure and tranquility.

We spent a good couple of hours simply wandering around the area, taking in the views from every possible vantage point. The wind was biting, a typical Icelandic greeting, but the beauty of the landscape more than made up for it. I even attempted a short hike up one of the smaller hills nearby, but quickly retreated, deciding that the view from below was just as rewarding, and far less strenuous! I must admit, the thought of climbing Kirkjufell itself, as some experienced hikers do in the summer, is rather daunting.

Sometimes, the most memorable experiences are the ones that push you slightly outside your comfort zone.

After Kirkjufell, it was time for a culinary adventure – or perhaps a culinary challenge would be a more accurate description. We were headed to Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum, home of the infamous hákarl, fermented shark. I had heard stories, of course, tales of its pungent aroma and… unique flavor. To say I was apprehensive would be an understatement. Hans, ever the adventurous one, was practically giddy with excitement. Saoirse, on the other hand, looked like she might bolt at any moment.


Explore the unique cultural heritage of shark fishing at Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum, a must-visit destination in Iceland for culinary and history enthusiasts.

The drive to Bjarnarhöfn was scenic, taking us through rolling hills and past windswept coastlines. The museum itself is located on a charming farm, and the family who runs it has been in the shark business for generations. We learned all about the process of catching, preparing, and fermenting the Greenland shark, a process that takes several months and involves burying the shark meat underground before hanging it to dry. It’s a fascinating, if slightly gruesome, process.

Then came the moment of truth. A small cube of hákarl was presented to each of us. I hesitated, took a deep breath, and popped it into my mouth. The texture was… interesting, slightly rubbery. The taste? Well, let’s just say it lived up to its reputation. The ammonia smell was definitely present, and the flavor was… intense. I managed to swallow it, but I won’t be rushing back for seconds anytime soon. Hans, to his credit, seemed to genuinely enjoy it, proclaiming it a true Icelandic delicacy. Saoirse, wisely, opted for a small piece of dried fish instead.

To wash down the hákarl, we were offered a shot of Brennivín, a local spirit also known as “Black Death.” It was strong, to say the least, but it did help to neutralize the lingering shark flavor. I think. The museum also displayed ancient fishing boats and tools, as well as a wealth of entertaining shark memorabilia. It was very interesting to see all the old tools and learn about the history of shark fishing.

After our somewhat challenging culinary experience, we needed something to cleanse our palates. Lunch at Hjá Góðu Fólki was exactly what we needed. This cozy restaurant offered a selection of traditional Icelandic dishes, and I opted for the lamb soup, a hearty and flavorful broth that warmed me from the inside out. The others enjoyed fish and chips, declaring it the best they’d had in Iceland so far.


Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine and local artistry at Hjá Góðu Fólki in Eyja- og Miklaholtshreppur - a hidden gem for travelers.

With our stomachs full and our spirits restored, we decided to explore the charming town of Grundarfjörður. We wandered along the harbor, watching the fishing boats bobbing in the water, and browsed the local shops. We even stopped for a coffee at Kaffi 59, a quirky little café with fairy lights and a cozy atmosphere. It was the perfect place to relax and soak in the local vibe. I even had a little chat with one of the locals, learning about the history of the town and the challenges of living in such a remote location.


Experience the essence of Icelandic cuisine at Kaffi 59, a cozy restaurant in Grundarfjörður celebrating local flavors amidst stunning landscapes.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Hellnar, a small village on the western coast of the peninsula. We had dinner reservations at Stapinn, a restaurant known for its fresh seafood and stunning ocean views. The drive was breathtaking, with the setting sun painting the sky in hues of orange and pink.


Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine at Stapinn in Arnarstapi - where delicious food meets breathtaking coastal views.

Dinner at Stapinn was the perfect end to a perfect day. I ordered the grilled cod, which was cooked to perfection and served with a side of roasted vegetables. The others opted for the seafood platter, a generous selection of fresh fish, mussels, and shrimp. The views from the restaurant were simply stunning, with the waves crashing against the rocks below.

As we drove back to our guesthouse, tired but happy, I reflected on the day’s adventures. From the iconic beauty of Kirkjufell to the culinary challenge of hákarl, it had been a day of unexpected delights. The Snaefellsnes Peninsula continues to surprise and enchant, and I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings. Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Saxhóll Crater, marvel at the Lava Rocks Formations, and visit the Bárður Snæfellsás Statue. I'm also hoping to pick up some authentic Icelandic yarn at Prjónaklúbburinn.

Tonight, though, I’m content to simply relax and savor the memories of another incredible day in Iceland. And maybe, just maybe, I’ll even try another bite of that hákarl. Maybe.