Solo Expedition to Iceland's Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Whispers of the North

Today was a day of raw, untamed beauty. The kind that etches itself into your memory and whispers to your soul long after you've left. It was a day spent in the presence of giants, where the land meets the sea in a dramatic display of nature's power. Days like these remind me why I traded the predictable comforts of city life for the unpredictable embrace of the wilderness.

My eleventh day in Hornstrandir began with the familiar ritual of packing up my campsite. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of wildflowers and the distant roar of the ocean. After a quick breakfast, I set off towards Drangaskörð, a location that had been highly recommended by several fellow hikers I met along the way.


Explore the breathtaking cliffs and serene landscapes of Drangaskörð, a hidden gem in Iceland's Westfjords, perfect for nature lovers and adventurers.
The journey to Drangaskörð was an adventure in itself. The landscape transformed with every step, from lush green valleys to rocky coastal paths. The trail wound its way through a tapestry of vibrant flora, a testament to the resilience of life in this Arctic environment. I even spotted a few Arctic foxes in the distance, their curious eyes watching my every move. They are such beautiful creatures, and it's a privilege to observe them in their natural habitat. It made me think of Liam back in Banff, and how much he would have loved to see them. He always had a soft spot for foxes, ever since he was a wee lad growing up in Ireland.

As I approached Drangaskörð, the landscape shifted dramatically. Towering cliffs rose from the sea, their jagged peaks piercing the sky. The sheer scale of these formations was humbling, a stark reminder of the immense forces that have shaped this land over millennia. The wind howled through the cliffs, carrying with it the cries of seabirds nesting on the ledges.

I spent hours exploring Drangaskörð, scrambling over rocks and gazing out at the endless expanse of the Arctic Ocean. The views were simply breathtaking. The rugged coastline stretched out in both directions, a symphony of cliffs, coves, and hidden beaches. The ocean crashed against the rocks below, sending plumes of spray high into the air. I found myself lost in the moment, captivated by the sheer beauty and power of nature.

To witness the raw, untamed beauty of Drangaskörð is to understand the profound connection between the land, the sea, and the soul.

As the day wore on, I found a sheltered spot to enjoy my packed lunch. I had stopped by Logn, restaurant & bar, where I grabbed a couple of sandwiches to take with me.


Experience authentic Icelandic flavors at Logn in Ísafjörður – where fresh local ingredients meet warm hospitality.
As I ate, I reflected on my journey so far. Hornstrandir had exceeded all my expectations. It was a place of unparalleled beauty and solitude, a place where I could truly connect with nature and myself. It was a far cry from the brewery back in Banff, and I knew Liam would have been worried sick about me. I promised myself I'd call him as soon as I got back to Ísafjörður.

After lunch, I continued my exploration of Drangaskörð. I hiked along the clifftops, marveling at the dramatic views. I descended to a secluded beach, where I collected seashells and watched the waves roll in. I even tried my hand at wildlife photography, capturing images of the seabirds soaring overhead. I may not be the best photographer, but I try my best to capture the moment.

As the sun began to set, I started to make my way back towards my campsite. The light was magical, casting a golden glow over the landscape. The cliffs of Drangaskörð were bathed in a warm, ethereal light, their shadows stretching long across the land. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

Before heading back to my camp for the night, I decided to stop by Ísafjörður. I had heard of a charming shop called Falda - Hannyrða- og skartgripaverslun, a place known for its unique blend of sewing supplies, exquisite jewelry, and cozy knitwear.


Discover the charm of Icelandic craftsmanship at Falda, a unique sewing, jewelry, and knit shop in Ísafjörður, perfect for souvenirs and local art.
I wanted to find a small souvenir to bring back home to Liam, something that would remind him of my adventure in Hornstrandir.

The shop was even more enchanting than I had imagined. Stepping inside, I was greeted by a warm and inviting atmosphere, filled with the delightful scents of freshly cut fabric and polished silver. The shelves were lined with colorful yarns, intricate patterns, and sparkling gemstones. It was a crafter's paradise, and I felt right at home.

I spent a good hour browsing through the shop, admiring the craftsmanship and attention to detail. I finally settled on a beautiful hand-knitted scarf, made from soft Icelandic wool. The scarf was a deep blue color, reminiscent of the Arctic Ocean, and it was adorned with a delicate pattern of snowflakes. It was the perfect gift for Liam, something that would keep him warm and remind him of me during the cold Canadian winters.

After purchasing the scarf, I decided to treat myself to a well-deserved dinner in town. I had heard good things about Húsið, a restaurant known for its traditional Icelandic cuisine.


Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Húsið in Ísafjörður – where tradition meets breathtaking views.
I was eager to try some of the local specialties and experience the culinary delights of the Westfjords.

The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a rustic charm that made me feel right at home. The walls were adorned with old photographs and fishing nets, and the air was filled with the aroma of freshly baked bread and simmering stews. I ordered a plate of Plokkfiskur, a traditional Icelandic fish stew, and a glass of local beer. It was the perfect meal to warm me up after a long day of hiking.

As I savored the flavors of the stew, I reflected on my day in Drangaskörð. It had been a day of immense beauty and solitude, a day that had reminded me of the power and resilience of nature. It had also been a day of connection, a day that had brought me closer to myself and to the world around me. As I prepared to head back to my campsite, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience such a remarkable place.

Back at my campsite, I settled in for the night. The wind had died down, and the stars were out in full force. I lay in my tent, listening to the gentle lapping of the waves against the shore. I thought about Liam and how much I missed him. I knew he would be proud of me for embarking on this solo adventure, but I also knew he would be eager for me to come home.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Möngufoss (Hlíðarhús), a waterfall that I've heard is absolutely stunning. I'm also looking forward to trying some of the local cuisine at Tjöruhúsið, a restaurant that specializes in seafood. It's hard to believe that my adventure is coming to an end. I'm already starting to feel a pang of sadness at the thought of leaving this magical place. But I know that I will carry the memories of Hornstrandir with me forever. This trip has reminded me of the importance of connecting with nature, of challenging myself, and of embracing the unknown. And for that, I am eternally grateful.

As I drifted off to sleep, I whispered a silent thank you to the land, to the sea, and to the sky. I was a small part of something much bigger than myself, and I felt incredibly lucky to be here. Goodnight from Hornstrandir.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Möngufoss (Hlíðarhús), a waterfall I've heard is absolutely stunning. I'm also looking forward to trying some of the local cuisine at Tjöruhúsið, a restaurant specializing in seafood. And perhaps, if the weather permits, I'll stop by Edinborg Bistro for a nightcap. It's hard to believe my adventure is coming to an end. I'm already starting to feel a pang of sadness at the thought of leaving this magical place. But I know I will carry the memories of Hornstrandir with me forever. This trip has reminded me of the importance of connecting with nature, challenging myself, and embracing the unknown. And for that, I am eternally grateful.