Solo Expedition to Iceland's Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Whispers of the Wilderness

Today was a day of pure, unadulterated immersion in the heart of Iceland's Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. It was a symphony of solitude, a dance with the elements, and a profound connection with the raw, untamed beauty of this remote corner of the world. As a wildlife photographer, I often seek places where nature reigns supreme, and Hornstrandir has undoubtedly exceeded all expectations.


Explore the breathtaking landscapes and diverse wildlife of Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, Iceland's untouched natural paradise in the Westfjords.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Hamraborg ehf in Ísafjörður. I grabbed a quick bite , fueling up with a mix of familiar fast food and local snacks before embarking on the boat to Hornstrandir. The anticipation was palpable as I boarded, the crisp morning air filled with the promise of adventure. I made sure to stock up on some postcards as well. The boat ride itself was an experience, the vessel cutting through the serene waters, offering glimpses of the dramatic coastline. The weather in Hornstrandir is unpredictable, but today, the skies were kind, and the sun played hide-and-seek with the clouds.

Arriving at the reserve felt like stepping onto another planet. The sheer remoteness of Hornstrandir is striking. There are no roads, no permanent inhabitants – just miles and miles of untouched wilderness. It's a place where nature dictates the rhythm of life, and I was eager to surrender to its pace. I set off on foot, my camera gear in tow, ready to capture the essence of this pristine landscape.

The trails of Hornstrandir are not for the faint of heart. They wind through rugged terrain, up steep inclines, and across rocky paths. But with each step, the views became more rewarding. Lush floral meadows stretched out before me, a vibrant tapestry of colors against the backdrop of snow-capped mountains. Waterfalls cascaded down cliffs, their thunderous roar echoing through the valleys.

The silence here is a language of its own, broken only by the calls of seabirds and the rustling of wind through the grass.

Lunch was a simple affair at Stúkuhúsið in Patreksfjörður, a charming spot known for its authentic Icelandic cuisine. I savored every bite, appreciating the warmth of the food and the cozy atmosphere of the restaurant. The staff was friendly and welcoming , and I enjoyed chatting with them about the local area.

As I continued my trek, I kept a watchful eye out for the wildlife that calls Hornstrandir home. Arctic foxes are perhaps the most iconic residents of the reserve, and I was determined to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures. I maintained a respectful distance from any dens I spotted, mindful of not disturbing their natural habitat. I also scanned the skies for the diverse array of birdlife that thrives in this region. Puffins, guillemots, and kittiwakes soared overhead, their calls adding to the symphony of the wilderness. I kept a respectful distance to minimize the impact on local wildlife.

In the late afternoon, I found myself drawn to the coastline, where dramatic cliffs plunge into the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean. The views were simply breathtaking. I spent hours perched on the edge, mesmerized by the power and beauty of the sea. The waves crashed against the rocks, sending plumes of spray into the air, while the sun cast a golden glow over the landscape.

For dinner, I opted for a quick and satisfying meal at Siver Kebab. The kebab was delicious and filling , providing the perfect end to a long day of hiking. I appreciated the cozy atmosphere and friendly service.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself reflecting on the profound sense of peace and solitude that Hornstrandir had offered. It's a place where you can truly disconnect from the distractions of modern life and reconnect with your inner self. The absence of cell service is a blessing in disguise, forcing you to be present in the moment and fully embrace the beauty that surrounds you.

I thought of Liam back in Banff, and how much he would have loved this place. We often dream of escaping to far-flung corners of the world together, and Hornstrandir would undoubtedly be high on our list. Perhaps one day, we'll return together, hand in hand, to explore this untamed paradise. For now, I carry him in my heart, sharing the beauty of this place through my lens.

Camping under the stars in Hornstrandir is an experience in itself. The night sky is ablaze with a million stars, their brilliance undiminished by light pollution. I lay in my tent, listening to the gentle sounds of the wilderness, feeling a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness such raw, untamed beauty.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Drangaskörð, another gem within the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. I've heard tales of its stunning vistas and unique geological formations, and I'm eager to discover its secrets. I'll make sure to pack extra layers, as the weather can change in an instant, and I wouldn't want to be caught unprepared. I'm also looking forward to trying some local delicacies at Thai Tawee for breakfast, Logn, restaurant & bar for lunch, and Húsið for dinner. I also plan on visiting Falda - Hannyrða- og skartgripaverslun, a shop to hopefully find some local crafts.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note of the few items I had forgotten to pack: insect repellent and a portable water filter. These little oversights are a reminder that even the most seasoned traveler can make mistakes, and that adaptability is key to a successful adventure.

Hornstrandir has already left an indelible mark on my soul. It's a place that challenges you, inspires you, and reminds you of the power and beauty of the natural world. As I drift off to sleep, I carry with me the whispers of the wilderness, the echoes of the waterfalls, and the promise of new adventures to come.

As I reflect on my journey so far, I'm reminded of a quote by the great Norwegian explorer, Fridtjof Nansen:

The history of the human race is a continuous struggle from darkness towards light. It is, therefore, of the highest importance that great care should be taken to prevent the lamp of knowledge from being extinguished through neglect.

Nansen's words resonate deeply with me, especially in a place like Hornstrandir, where the light of knowledge shines so brightly through the pristine beauty of nature. It's a reminder that we must cherish and protect these wild places, for they hold the key to understanding our past, present, and future. The beauty of raw nature is a sight to behold in this special place.

And with that, I close my eyes, ready to embrace whatever tomorrow may bring. The adventure continues...