A Romantic Renaissance Getaway in Urbino

Echoes of Life and Death in Urbino

Today in Urbino was a day of profound contrasts, a journey from the solemn silence of the Church of the Dead to the vibrant pulse of Piazza Mercatale. These experiences reminded me of the delicate balance between reflection and engagement, a dance I often find myself navigating as I explore new places. It's funny how travel can throw these juxtapositions into sharp relief, making you appreciate the full spectrum of human experience.

Our day began with a simple breakfast at Bar tabacchi Giardino.

Discover the local flavors and friendly atmosphere at Bar Tabacchi Giardino, the perfect spot to relax in Urbino's vibrant heart.
Hans-Peter and I enjoyed a quick coffee and a pastry, watching the town slowly wake up. It's these small, unscripted moments that I cherish, observing the locals and feeling the rhythm of daily life. The bar seemed like a local haunt, filled with the murmur of early morning conversations and the clinking of coffee cups. It was a humble start to a day that promised much in the way of reflection and contrast.

From there, we ventured to the Church of the Dead.

Discover the captivating blend of history and artistry at Urbania's Church of The Dead, a unique tourist attraction steeped in Italy's cultural heritage.
I must admit, I wasn't entirely sure what to expect. I had read about the mummified bodies and the collection of skulls, but nothing could have prepared me for the experience itself. The church, or rather the Chiesa dei Morti as it is known, is located in nearby Urbania.

The atmosphere inside was heavy with history and a palpable sense of mortality. Eighteen mummified figures, each with their own story etched into their remains, stood silently behind glass enclosures. Above them, a display of one hundred skulls served as a stark reminder of life's fleeting nature. It was a sobering experience, prompting reflections on life, death, and the passage of time. I couldn't help but think about my own life, my family, and the legacy I hope to leave behind.

Sometimes, the most profound travel experiences come from confronting the realities we often shy away from.

The Church of the Dead isn't just a macabre display; it's a testament to the human condition. The bodies, preserved by a unique mold in the soil, belonged to members of the Confraternita della Buona Morte (Brotherhood of the Good Death), an organization that provided burial services for the poor and outcasts. Each mummy tells a tale of a life lived, often marked by hardship and tragedy. It was a powerful reminder of the importance of compassion and the dignity of every human life.

Leaving the Church of the Dead, I felt a need to reconnect with the living. So, we headed to Piazza Mercatale.

Experience the vibrant culture and history of Urbino at Piazza Mercatale, a lively square filled with local shops, cafes, and stunning architecture.
The contrast was stark and immediate. Where the church was hushed and contemplative, the piazza was alive with activity. The air buzzed with the chatter of locals, the laughter of children, and the enticing aromas of Italian street food. It was a welcome sensory overload.

Piazza Mercatale is more than just a square; it's a meeting place, a marketplace, and a stage for daily life. Surrounded by Renaissance architecture, it offers a glimpse into Urbino's rich history and vibrant present. We strolled through the square, admiring the elegant buildings and soaking in the atmosphere. I couldn't help but smile, feeling the warmth of the sun on my face and the energy of the crowd around me.

For lunch, we chose Amici Miei Ristorante Pizzeria.

Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Amici Miei Ristorante Pizzeria in Urbino – where every dish tells a story.
The reviews I had read promised a delightful experience, and they were spot on. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a menu that blended traditional Italian flavors with innovative twists. I opted for the pappardelle al ragù di papera e maggiorana, while Hans-Peter enjoyed one of their famous Neapolitan pizzas. The food was exquisite, the service impeccable, and the ambiance perfect for a leisurely midday meal. It was a culinary highlight of our trip so far.

After lunch, we did a little shopping. Urbino is known for its artisan crafts, and I was eager to find a few souvenirs to take back to Berlin. We stopped by Maroccini - Articoli da Regalo & Liste Nozze.

Explore Maroccini in Urbino for exquisite gifts and unique wedding lists, showcasing the rich Italian craftsmanship and cultural heritage.
a charming shop that offered a wide array of unique gifts and keepsakes. I found a beautiful hand-painted ceramic plate that I knew Emily would adore, and Hans-Peter picked out a leather-bound journal for his architectural sketches. It's always a pleasure to support local artisans and bring home something that truly reflects the character of a place.

As the afternoon waned, we decided to indulge in a little more culinary exploration. For dinner, we had reservations at Osteria Gula - Urbino (pu).

Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Osteria Gula in Urbino - where tradition meets flavor in every dish.
This osteria is celebrated for its traditional Marchigiana cuisine and its cozy atmosphere. We shared a selection of local specialties, including handmade pasta with truffle sauce and grilled meat. The flavors were rich and authentic, a true taste of the region. The osteria itself exuded warmth and charm, with rustic décor and friendly staff. It was the perfect ending to a day filled with contrasts and discoveries.

One of the things I love most about traveling is the opportunity to step outside my comfort zone and experience new things. Today was a perfect example of that. From the somber reflection at the Church of the Dead to the joyful immersion in the life of Piazza Mercatale, I felt a full range of emotions and sensations. It's these kinds of experiences that make travel so enriching and memorable.

As I reflect on today, I'm reminded of a quote by Anaïs Nin:

We travel, some of us forever, to seek other states, other lives, other souls.

Tomorrow, we will visit the National Gallery of the Marche - Ducal Palace of Urbino [see itinerary of tomorrow]. I am keen to see the art collection there, and Hans-Peter is looking forward to exploring the architecture. Before that, we'll have breakfast at Caffè del Teatro. We'll have lunch at Ristorante Pizzeria Locanda Della Stazione Urbino, and dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria Rondo'. I also intend to check out the Fuoritema bar [see itinerary of tomorrow].

Until then, I'll cherish the memories of today, a day of contrasts that reminded me of the beauty and complexity of life.