A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Day 8: Echoes of the Past

Today was a journey into the heart of Kumano Kodo's spiritual and natural wonders. I set out to explore ancient shrines and delve into the depths of a limestone cave, eager to uncover more of what this fascinating region has to offer. It was a day filled with quiet contemplation and awe-inspiring sights, a perfect blend of history and nature.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. Fuelled up with a delicious meal, I felt ready to tackle the day’s adventures. The cafe itself was a charming spot, filled with locals and fellow travelers alike, all eager to start their day on the trails. The staff were incredibly friendly, offering tips and advice about the area, which was a great help in planning my route.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

First on the itinerary was the Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine. As I approached, I was immediately struck by the serene atmosphere. The shrine is nestled amidst lush greenery, creating a sense of tranquility that's both calming and invigorating. The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of the surrounding forest. The shrine itself, though not large, exuded a palpable sense of history and spiritual significance.


Explore the serene Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine, a Shinto gem in Wakayama, starting point for the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage with rich cultural heritage.

Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine is more than just a historical site; it's a place where the past feels very much alive. The gentle rustling of leaves and the soft sunlight filtering through the trees added to the mystical ambiance. I took my time wandering around the grounds, reading the informational plaques, and trying to absorb the stories and legends associated with this sacred place. It was easy to imagine pilgrims of centuries past stopping here to offer prayers and seek blessings before continuing their journey along the Kumano Kodo.

The journey, like life, is as much about the inner discoveries as it is about the external landmarks.

After spending a good hour at the shrine, I made my way towards the Totsui Limestone Cave. The drive there was scenic, with winding roads offering glimpses of the stunning Wakayama countryside. As I neared the cave, the landscape shifted, becoming more rugged and wild. The entrance to the cave was unassuming, almost hidden amongst the rocks and foliage, adding to the sense of adventure.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.

Stepping inside the Totsui Limestone Cave was like entering another world. The air immediately turned cool and damp, a welcome respite from the summer heat. The cave was dimly lit, with just enough light to navigate the narrow passages and marvel at the rock formations. Stalactites and stalagmites adorned the ceiling and floor, creating an otherworldly landscape that seemed to stretch on forever. The silence was broken only by the occasional drip of water, adding to the sense of mystery and wonder.

Exploring the Totsui Limestone Cave was an incredible experience. The sheer scale of the cave, combined with the intricate beauty of the rock formations, was truly awe-inspiring. I spent what felt like hours wandering through the passages, taking photos and simply soaking in the atmosphere. It was a reminder of the power and artistry of nature, a testament to the slow, patient work of time.

Lunch was a delightful affair at the Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. The setting was idyllic, with views of rolling hills and vineyards stretching as far as the eye could see. The food was incredible, a fusion of Italian and Japanese flavors that was both innovative and comforting. I savored every bite, enjoying the peaceful ambiance and the company of fellow diners.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

In the evening, I had dinner at Yorozuya Eatery, a local spot known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. The restaurant was cozy and welcoming, filled with locals enjoying a casual meal. I ordered a selection of dishes, each one bursting with flavor and freshness. It was a perfect end to a day of exploration, a chance to relax and reflect on all that I had seen and experienced.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I decided to check out Guest House Okagesan, which also functions as a bar. I enjoyed a quiet drink, chatting with the owner and a few locals. It was a great way to unwind and soak in the local atmosphere. The bar had a friendly, welcoming vibe, and it felt like a true community hub.


Experience authentic Japanese culture at Guest House Okagesan, a budget-friendly inn in the serene landscapes of Tanabe, Wakayama.

As I reflect on today, I am struck by the diversity of experiences the Kumano Kodo has to offer. From the spiritual serenity of Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine to the natural wonder of Totsui Limestone Cave, every moment was filled with discovery and awe. The food was exceptional, the people were friendly, and the landscape was breathtaking. It’s days like these that remind me why I love to travel, why I love to explore, and why I love to share my experiences with others.

Tomorrow, I plan to hike the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route (Chikatsuyu-Oji - Kobiro-Oji Section) and explore the Koyazaka Slope. I’m looking forward to another day of adventure and discovery on this incredible pilgrimage trail. The thought of walking through ancient forests and uncovering more of Japan's hidden gems fills me with anticipation. I'm also planning on visiting Takano, a local shop, to pick up some supplies for the trail and perhaps a souvenir to remember this incredible journey. For dinner, I'm considering trying Onigajō cliff Center, hoping to enjoy some local cuisine with a view.

This solo journey continues to be a deeply enriching experience, allowing me to connect with nature, history, and myself in ways I never imagined. The Kumano Kodo is not just a trail; it's a pathway to self-discovery, and I am grateful for every step of the way.