A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Spiritual Steps and Seaside Views

Today was a day of contrasts, a harmonious blend of serene mountain trails and the rugged beauty of the Japanese coastline. The Kumano Kodo never ceases to surprise, offering new perspectives with every step. It's a journey not just through physical landscapes, but also through time and tradition.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. I’d heard whispers of their excellent coffee and homemade treats, and I must say, the rumors were spot on. The cafe had a cozy, welcoming vibe, and the coffee was just the fuel I needed for the day's hike. It's amazing how a simple cup of coffee can set the tone for an entire day of exploration. Sansaro Cafe is more than just a place to grab a bite; it’s a haven for travelers seeking a taste of local life and a warm, inviting atmosphere. The owner was incredibly kind, offering tips about nearby attractions and even sharing a bit about the cafe's history. It's these small, personal touches that make a journey truly special. I made sure to try one of their signature coffee blends, a perfect way to savor the local flavors before hitting the trail. I also picked up a couple of onigiri for a snack later, knowing that sustenance would be key on today's trek.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

With renewed energy, I set off to tackle the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route (Chikatsuyu-Oji - Kobiro-Oji Section). The trail was everything I had hoped for and more – a winding path through lush forests, with the occasional glimpse of distant mountains. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, a refreshing change from the urban landscapes I'm used to back in Berlin. As a software developer, I spend most of my days indoors, staring at a screen, so these moments of immersion in nature are particularly precious to me.


Journey through the stunning Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, where nature, history, and spirituality intertwine in Japan's sacred landscape.

The Nakahechi Route, part of the UNESCO World Heritage site, is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey through centuries of history and spirituality. Every stone, every tree seems to whisper tales of pilgrims who walked this path before me, seeking enlightenment and connection with nature. The trail meandered through verdant landscapes and ancient cedar forests, providing picture-perfect mountain views. I made sure to wear my trusty hiking boots, knowing the path could be uneven and steep in places. I also packed plenty of water, remembering the sunscreen I had forgotten earlier in the trip.

The beauty of the Kumano Kodo lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in the profound sense of connection it fosters with nature, history, and oneself.

I took a moment to reflect on the journey so far. It’s interesting how being alone with my thoughts on these trails allows me to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with myself. It’s a form of meditation, where the rhythm of my footsteps becomes the mantra, and the surrounding nature becomes the guide. I was mindful to check local maps for points of interest and rest areas along the route, ensuring I stayed on track and didn't miss any hidden gems.

After a fulfilling morning on the Nakahechi Route, I paused for lunch at Kumagoro. This restaurant came highly recommended for its local cuisine, and I was eager to try some regional specialties. I opted for the mehari-zushi and Kumano cha-gayu tea rice porridge, both of which were absolutely delicious. The mehari-zushi, rice balls wrapped in pickled mustard leaf, had a unique, tangy flavor that I really enjoyed. The cha-gayu, a comforting tea rice porridge, was perfect for refueling after the morning's hike. Kumagoro had a relaxed, homey atmosphere, and I felt right at home there. I even struck up a conversation with some fellow hikers, sharing stories and tips about the Kumano Kodo. I also noticed pamphlets about the Nanki area and information about the Kumano Kodo trail, a testament to the area's commitment to preserving and promoting its rich cultural heritage. It’s these kinds of experiences that remind me why I love traveling – the opportunity to connect with people from all walks of life and to discover new flavors and traditions.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

In the afternoon, I ventured towards the Koyazaka Slope, another section of the Kumano Kodo known for its historical significance and scenic beauty. I learned that Koya-zaka Slope is a road that was used by pilgrims traveling from Shingu toward Mt. Nachi. This part of the trail was particularly captivating, with moss-covered stones and towering trees creating a truly magical atmosphere. The sunlight filtering through the canopy cast an ethereal glow on the path, making me feel like I had stepped into another world. As I walked, I imagined the countless pilgrims who had traversed this same slope centuries ago, their footsteps echoing through time.


Explore Koyazaka Slope in Shingu, Wakayama: A perfect blend of hiking, history, and breathtaking views along the Kumano Kodo trail.

The Koyazaka Slope offered a different perspective, with glimpses of the Kumano-nada Sea through the trees. The trail was well-preserved, and I could see the remnants of the old stone pavement that had been laid down centuries ago. I paused at a small clearing to take in the view, feeling a sense of awe and gratitude for the beauty of nature. I continued towards Hirotsuno, where I found a viewing area with a stunning view of the Ojigahama Coast. The sea stretched out before me, vast and endless, and I felt a sense of peace wash over me.

As evening approached, I made my way to Onigajō cliff Center for dinner. The name Onigajo translates to castle of the ogre or demon, and the area is steeped in legend and folklore. Before dinner, I explored the Onigajo Cave, a natural formation carved by the relentless forces of wind and waves. The cave was said to be the hideout of a dangerous pirate, adding to the area's mystique. According to legend, the shogun Sakanoue no Tamuramaro fought the pirate in the cave, defeating 800 oni demons released from the cliffs. The cliffs themselves were an incredible sight, with jagged rocks and dramatic formations that seemed to defy gravity. I spent some time wandering along the coast, marveling at the power of nature and the beauty of the sea.


Experience authentic Mie Prefecture cuisine at Onigajō Cliff Center while enjoying breathtaking coastal views and unique souvenirs.

The Onigajo cliff Center offered a variety of local specialties, and I decided to try some seafood dishes. The fresh catches of the day were expertly prepared, and I savored every bite while enjoying the panoramic views of the sea. The restaurant had a lively atmosphere, with locals and tourists alike sharing stories and laughter. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and reflection.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I stopped by Takano, a local shop, to pick up some souvenirs for my family and friends back in Berlin. I wanted to bring them a piece of the Kumano Kodo, something that would remind them of the beauty and tranquility of this special place. I found some beautifully crafted bamboo items, as well as some local sweets and snacks. I knew they would appreciate the thoughtfulness of the gifts, and I looked forward to sharing my experiences with them when I returned home.


Explore Takano Shopping Mall in Koya for a vibrant shopping experience infused with local culture and delicious cuisine.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Gingko Tree and Fudarakusan-ji. I'm looking forward to discovering more of the natural and cultural wonders of this region. I’m also planning to have breakfast at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table, lunch at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, and dinner at Sukiya R42 Kumano. Maybe I'll even check out club Aria for a nightcap. It’s all about balancing the spiritual with the social, right?

As I sit here now, reflecting on the day, I realize that the Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it's a journey of self-discovery. It's a chance to disconnect from the noise of modern life and reconnect with the simplicity and beauty of nature. And as a freelance software developer living in Berlin, I find that these moments of escape are essential for my well-being and creativity. The Kumano Kodo has a way of clearing the mind and opening the heart, and I'm grateful for every step of the way.

The air is fresh, and the stars are beginning to pepper the night sky. Time for some well-deserved rest before another day of exploration. Until tomorrow, happy trails!