A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Echoes of Ancient Footsteps: Shiomi-Toge Beckons

Today, the path called to me, a whisper of ancient footsteps echoing through the trees. It was a day for conquering mountain passes, reflecting in serene parks, and savoring the unique tastes of the Kumano region. As a software developer turned travel blogger, I find solace in these journeys, a digital detox that reconnects me with the simple rhythms of nature and history.

The morning began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. This charming spot, nestled in the heart of Yunomine Onsen, is more than just a place to eat; it's a cultural hub where you can catch up on local news while fueling up for the day. I opted for a traditional teishoku set, a delightful assortment of local flavors that provided the perfect energy boost for the day's hike. It reminded me of the cozy cafes I frequent in Berlin, but with a distinctly Japanese touch.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off to tackle the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing. The trail wound its way through lush forests, the air thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth. As I ascended, I couldn't help but feel a sense of connection to the pilgrims of centuries past, their footsteps worn into the very stones beneath my feet.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

The best view comes after the hardest climb.

The climb was challenging, but the views from the top were more than worth the effort. The panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains were breathtaking, a sea of green stretching as far as the eye could see. It was a moment of pure serenity, a chance to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with the natural beauty of Japan. I made sure to take plenty of photos, hoping to capture even a fraction of the magic I was experiencing.

After conquering the mountain pass, I descended into the Kumano Kodo Park, a tranquil oasis where I could rest and reflect on my journey. The park offered a welcome respite from the rigors of the trail, with its peaceful atmosphere and stunning natural scenery. I spent some time wandering through the park, admiring the carefully manicured gardens and the ancient trees that stood as silent witnesses to centuries of history.


Discover the breathtaking trails and spiritual heritage of Kumano Kodo Park, a serene escape in Wakayama, Japan, perfect for nature lovers and adventure seekers.

For lunch, I stopped at the Watarase Onsen Cafe, a charming spot known for its delicious local cuisine and relaxing atmosphere. I indulged in a light meal, savoring the flavors of the region and enjoying the company of fellow travelers. It was a chance to share stories and experiences, to connect with others who were also drawn to the spiritual beauty of the Kumano Kodo.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

As the afternoon wore on, I decided to treat myself to a bit of relaxation at the KUMANOYASAI CAFE. While primarily known as a cafe, it also offers a unique opportunity to unwind and soak in the local atmosphere. I enjoyed a cup of expertly brewed coffee, surrounded by the cafe's rustic decor and the friendly chatter of locals and tourists alike. It was the perfect way to recharge my batteries before the final culinary experience of the day.


Discover the charming Kumonoyasai Cafe, a perfect breakfast and brunch spot on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail, offering local flavors and a cozy atmosphere.

The day culminated in a delightful dinner at Kumano Winery Guest House / Dal Chef’s Table. This unique establishment, a blend of Italian culinary artistry and Japanese hospitality, is run by Giovanni dal Bosco, affectionately known as “Da-ru”. The guest house is located a short walk from Nejiki-no-Sugi along the Shiomi-toge route. Chickens and goats roam freely near the entrance of this 90-year-old home, which has been renovated for a bucolic stay. I savored a Verona-style meal made with vegetables grown on site. The fresh air and countryside views made it an unforgettable dining experience.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

As I reflect on today's journey, I'm struck by the profound sense of peace and connection I've found on the Kumano Kodo. It's a place where ancient history and natural beauty intertwine, offering a unique opportunity for reflection and rejuvenation. As a solo traveler, I appreciate the chance to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with myself, to find solace in the simple rhythms of nature and the shared experiences of fellow travelers.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Doro Kyo Gorge and the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff. I also intend to have breakfast at Onigajō cliff Center, lunch at Takehara, and dinner at Sukiya R42 Kumano. Before all that, I plan to stop by Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu to pick up a few souvenirs.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a spiritual journey, a chance to step back in time and connect with the ancient soul of Japan. And as I prepare for the next leg of my pilgrimage, I carry with me the echoes of ancient footsteps and the serene beauty of the mountains.

Tonight, I'm especially grateful for the small luxuries I packed – my travel journal, where I can capture these memories, and my portable charger, ensuring I can share them with you all. Though I forgot my umbrella and sunscreen, the intermittent rain and cool mountain air were a welcome change from the Berlin summer.

I am looking forward to tomorrow's adventures!