Exploring the Cultural Riches of Kanazawa

Echoes of the Edo Period

Today, I journeyed deeper into Kanazawa's past, wandering through districts where samurai once roamed and geishas entertained. It was a day of historical immersion, a chance to step back in time and imagine life as it was centuries ago. The whispers of history seemed to linger in the air, adding a palpable sense of wonder to every sight and sound.

My day began with breakfast at Bird Yakitori. Though yakitori might seem more suited for dinner, the savory grilled chicken skewers were a delightful way to start the morning. The smoky aroma and perfectly seasoned chicken provided a hearty and satisfying meal, setting me up for a day of exploration. It's a small, inviting place, and I found myself chatting with some locals, which always adds to the experience.


Discover authentic yakitori at Bird Yakitori in Kanazawa - a cozy haven for food lovers seeking traditional Japanese flavors.

From there, I ventured into the Nagamachi District, a beautifully preserved samurai neighborhood. The earthen walls, narrow lanes, and tranquil canals transported me back to the Edo period. It was easy to picture samurai families living in these residences, going about their daily lives. The area has escaped major fires and retains many Edo-period features, including a drainage and water supply system that is still in use.


Explore the historic Nagamachi District in Kanazawa, where samurai heritage meets charming streets filled with culture and traditional Japanese craftsmanship.

History is not a burden on our memory but an illumination of our souls.

I strolled along the stone-flagged streets, admiring the meticulously maintained homes. The straw mats attached to the earthen walls, a winter tradition to protect them from frost, were absent in August, but I could easily imagine the winter wonderland they create. It's fascinating how well-preserved this district is, especially considering that Kanazawa was one of the largest castle towns in feudal Japan.

One of the highlights was visiting the Nagamachi Samurai Residence, Nomura House. This former estate of a wealthy samurai family offered a glimpse into their opulent lifestyle. I was particularly impressed by the intricate details of the interior, from the lacquered wooden surfaces to the elegant furnishings. The small, lush green garden, listed as one of the top three gardens in Japan, was a tranquil oasis.

Next, I headed to Geisha House Shima, located in the Higashi Chaya District. This well-preserved geisha house, built in 1820, provided a fascinating look into the world of geishas. Although geisha houses typically did not have kitchens, relying on delivery services for food, Shima offered a glimpse into the rooms where geishas entertained their guests.


Discover the charm and history of Kanazawa at Geisha House Shima, a beautifully preserved heritage site showcasing Japan's geisha culture.

Walking through the house, I imagined the elegant geishas, highly skilled in music, dance, and conversation, entertaining wealthy merchants and nobles. It was intriguing to learn about the customs and traditions of these tea houses, where sake flowed more freely than tea. The red walls and small backyard added to the unique ambiance, making it easy to envision the lively atmosphere of the past. Shima is the oldest original tea house in Japan.

For lunch, I savored the French cuisine at Tawara Restaurant. Located near the Nagamachi Samurai Residence, this hidden gem offered a unique dining experience, blending French culinary techniques with local ingredients. Chef Tawara's expertise, honed in Kanazawa, France, and Kyoto, was evident in every dish. The attention to detail and commitment to locally sourced ingredients made it a memorable meal. I opted for the wine pairing, which perfectly complemented the exquisite flavors.


Experience exquisite French cuisine at Tawara Restaurant in Kanazawa, where elegance meets culinary artistry.

In the afternoon, I made my way to Kanazawa Castle. This partially restored castle has a rich history, serving as the headquarters of the Maeda clan for centuries. Although much of the original castle was destroyed by fires over the years, the ongoing restoration efforts are impressive.


Explore the exquisite beauty and historical significance of Kanazawa Castle, a majestic landmark in the heart of Kanazawa, Japan.

I explored the castle grounds, admiring the stone walls and reconstructed buildings. The castle's strategic location, backed by high hills and flanked by rivers, was evident. I learned that the castle had a six-story tenshu, which burned down in 1602 and was never rebuilt. The castle also served as the headquarters of the Imperial Japanese Army and later as a campus for Kanazawa University. Today, it stands as a National Historic Site, a testament to Kanazawa's rich heritage.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself at Kaga for dinner. This restaurant offered Kaga cuisine, featuring seasonal ingredients and local specialties. The Jibuni duck stew and Nodoguro seabass were particularly delicious, providing a taste of Kanazawa's culinary excellence.


Discover Kaga: A Teppanyaki dining gem in Kanazawa offering stunning views and exquisite Japanese cuisine.

To cap off the evening, I visited Kohaku Bar, a small, intimate establishment near Kanazawa Station. Specializing in whiskey and custom drinks, the bar offered a cozy atmosphere to unwind. The bartender, Youmura-san, was incredibly friendly, crafting a unique cocktail based on my preferences. The hand-carved ice cubes and vintage glassware added to the charm, making it a truly special experience.


Discover the vibrant Kohaku Bar in Kanazawa, where expertly crafted cocktails meet warm ambiance for an unforgettable nightlife experience.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much Kanazawa has to offer in terms of historical and cultural experiences. Walking through the Nagamachi District and Geisha House Shima provided a tangible connection to the past, while the culinary delights at Tawara and Kaga offered a taste of the present. Kohaku Bar was the perfect ending, a place to relax and savor the memories of the day.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Myouryuji (Ninjia Temple), Ishiura Shrine, and the Kazuemachi Chaya District. I'm also looking forward to visiting Hakuichi, a shop specializing in gold leaf products. Each day in Kanazawa brings new discoveries, and I'm eager to see what tomorrow holds.

It’s funny, Aoife always reminds me to pack an umbrella, and of course, I forgot it again. Hopefully, the weather will continue to be kind to me during my explorations. I also wish I had remembered a power adapter, as charging my devices has been a bit of a hassle. But these are minor inconveniences in what has been an incredible journey so far.

Tonight, I raise a glass to Kanazawa, a city that seamlessly blends history, culture, and culinary excellence. I look forward to sharing more of my adventures with you soon.