Solo Cultural Exploration in Fes, Morocco

Fes Unveiled: A Journey Through Time and Culture

Today's adventure in Fes was a deep dive into the city's rich history and vibrant culture, a sensory feast that left me both enlightened and exhilarated. From exploring ancient fortresses and bustling city gates to savoring the local cuisine, every moment was a new discovery. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel, to immerse myself in the stories and traditions of places far removed from my everyday life in Dublin.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at La Maison Bleue. The traditional Moroccan setting, with its intricate wooden panels and stained glass windows, was the perfect way to start the day. The breakfast itself was a delightful spread of local pastries, fresh fruit, and strong coffee – fuel for a day of exploration. I was particularly excited to visit the Borj Nord Museum, a fortress that houses an impressive collection of arms from around the world.


Discover the captivating military history of Morocco at Borj Nord Museum, a historical landmark offering stunning views and rich cultural insights.

The taxi ride to Borj Nord offered panoramic views of Fes, a sprawling city nestled in a valley, its rooftops a mosaic of terracotta and white. As we ascended the hill, I could see the fortress looming in the distance, its imposing walls a testament to its strategic importance throughout history. Borj Nord, built in the 16th century by Sultan Ahmed Al Mansour, was initially constructed to keep a watchful eye on the city’s inhabitants. Today, it serves as a museum showcasing a vast collection of weaponry, from Stone Age artifacts to 20th-century firearms. As an antiques dealer with a keen interest in history, I was eager to explore its halls.

The museum did not disappoint. The collection was incredibly diverse, featuring over 5,000 pieces from 35 different countries. I was particularly fascinated by the Moroccan arms, many of which were crafted in Fes itself at the Makina, an industrial arms factory established in 1886. The intricate metalwork and detailed engravings on the swords and rifles were a testament to the skill of Moroccan artisans. One of the museum's most noteworthy artifacts was an enormous Saadian cannon, used during the Battle of Three Kings in 1578. It was awe-inspiring to stand before such a massive piece of military history. I spent a good few hours wandering through the thirteen rooms, each filled with relics from different eras and corners of the globe. The rooftop offered stunning views of the city, a perfect vantage point to appreciate the sprawling landscape of Fes.

The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there.

After immersing myself in military history, I decided to explore Fes El Jdid, the “New Fes.” Founded in the 13th century by the Marinid dynasty, Fez El Jdid is home to the Royal Palace, the Mellah (Jewish quarter), and numerous mosques and historical landmarks. I hopped into another taxi and made my way to this district, eager to experience a different side of Fes.


Discover the rich history and vibrant culture of Fes El Jdid, where ancient architecture and local traditions intertwine in a Moroccan treasure.

My first stop was the Royal Palace (Dar al-Makhzen). While the palace itself is not open to the public, the exterior is a sight to behold. The stunning golden gates and intricate tile work are a testament to Moroccan craftsmanship and opulence. I spent some time admiring the architecture and soaking in the atmosphere of this historic site. The palace, once the center of government in Morocco, still serves a purpose for the King of Morocco today. I imagined the countless historical events that had unfolded within those walls.

Next, I ventured into the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter. This area is characterized by its unique architecture, distinct from the rest of Fes. The houses here have wooden balconies and windows facing the street, a departure from traditional Moroccan homes that typically have windows facing inward. I wandered through the narrow streets, admiring the synagogues and the Jewish cemetery, each a testament to the rich history of the Jewish community in Fes. The Mellah offered a glimpse into a different culture and a reminder of the diverse influences that have shaped this city.

For lunch, I headed to Darori, a restaurant recommended by my guesthouse owner. Tucked away in a quiet corner of Fez El Jdid, Darori offered a welcome respite from the bustling streets. I opted for a traditional tagine, a slow-cooked stew with meat, vegetables, and aromatic spices. The tagine was served in a traditional earthenware pot, and the flavors were incredible. As I savored each bite, I reflected on the morning's adventures. This was a perfect spot to people watch and soak in the atmosphere around me.


Discover the exquisite blend of Moroccan tradition and haute French cuisine at Darori in Fes – an unmissable dining experience.

With a full stomach and renewed energy, I made my way to Bab Boujloud, the iconic Blue Gate of Fes. This gate, built in 1913 during the French colonial period, serves as the main entrance to Fes el Bali, the old city. As I approached the gate, I was struck by its vibrant blue color, a stark contrast to the surrounding sand-colored walls. The blue, I learned, represents the color of Fes, famous for its pottery painted with elegant cobalt blue designs. The other side of the gate, facing the medina, is green, the color of Islam. This gate is more than just an entrance; it’s a symbol of Fes’s rich history and cultural significance.


Explore the enchanting Bab Boujloud, the iconic gate to Fes, where history, culture, and vibrant markets await every traveler.

Passing through Bab Boujloud was like stepping back in time. The narrow alleyways of the medina were teeming with activity, a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells. Shopkeepers hawked their wares, artisans crafted traditional goods, and locals went about their daily lives. I spent hours wandering through the labyrinthine streets, getting lost in the maze of souks and alleyways. It was chaotic, yes, but also incredibly captivating. I found myself drawn to the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts, housed in a beautifully restored early-18th-century funduq (inn used by caravans). The intricate woodwork and craftsmanship on display were stunning.

As the sun began to set, I sought refuge in a rooftop cafe near Bab Boujloud. From my vantage point, I watched as the city transformed, the rooftops glowing in the golden light. The call to prayer echoed through the medina, a hauntingly beautiful sound that added to the atmosphere. I sipped on a mint tea, a staple of Moroccan hospitality, and reflected on the day’s adventures.

For dinner, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Eden at Palais Amani. Located in a beautifully restored riad, Eden offered a fine-dining experience with a modern twist on traditional Moroccan cuisine. The ambiance was elegant and romantic, with tinkling fountains, orange trees strung with lanterns, and rose petals scattered throughout the courtyard. I opted for a tasting menu, a culinary journey through the flavors of Morocco. Each dish was a work of art, beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. The service was impeccable, and the overall experience was a perfect ending to a perfect day.


Experience the exquisite fusion of Moroccan and French cuisine in a historic palace setting at Eden at Palais Amani.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I decided to check out Blue Wall, a bar recommended for its unique atmosphere. It turned out to be a cozy spot with a relaxed vibe, perfect for unwinding after a long day of exploring. I enjoyed a local beer and chatted with some of the other patrons, exchanging stories and travel tips.


Discover the vibrant Blue Wall Bar in Fes, where local flavors and friendly vibes come together to create a unique Moroccan experience.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, the city was quiet, the streets deserted. The air was cool and crisp, and the stars were shining brightly overhead. I felt a sense of contentment, a feeling that comes from experiencing something truly special. Fes had captivated me with its history, culture, and charm. It was a city that had awakened my senses and enriched my soul.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Marinid Tombs for a panoramic view of the city, explore the Andalusian Mosque, and visit El Glaoui Palace. I'm also hoping to do some shopping at the Cooperative Artisanal de Fes. It promises to be another day filled with new discoveries and unforgettable experiences.

This solo trip to Fes has been an incredible journey so far, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. It’s moments like these that make me grateful for the opportunity to explore the world and share my experiences with all of you. I miss Aoife and Dublin, but I know she is enjoying my stories as much as I am enjoying living them. Tonight, though, I'll sleep soundly, dreaming of tagines, minarets and the magic of Fes.