Solo Cultural Exploration in Fes, Morocco

Stepping Back in Time in Fes

After a smooth flight from Dublin, I finally arrived in Fes, ready to immerse myself in the heart of Moroccan culture. The air was thick with the scent of spices and the sounds of a city teeming with life, a sensory feast that immediately captivated me. As an antiques dealer, I've always been drawn to places where history whispers from every corner, and Fes, with its ancient medina and storied past, seemed like the perfect place to start a new chapter in my travel blog.

The taxi ride from the airport was a blur of dusty roads and glimpses of traditional architecture, a stark contrast to the modern airport. Arriving at my guesthouse, I was greeted with warm smiles and a glass of mint tea, a welcoming gesture that set the tone for my stay. After settling in, I couldn't resist the allure of Fes El Bali, the oldest part of the city, a UNESCO World Heritage site beckoning me to explore its labyrinthine streets.


Explore the historic Fes El Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site brimming with ancient architecture, vibrant souks, and rich Moroccan culture.

In the heart of Fes, every corner tells a story, every scent evokes a memory, and every step is a journey through time.

My first stop was the famed Fes El Bali, a sprawling maze of narrow alleyways that seemed to transport me back centuries. It's easy to get lost in this urban pedestrian zone, but that's precisely where the magic lies. The vibrant souks were a riot of colors, filled with artisan products ranging from perfumes to spices and the city's famous leather goods. As someone who appreciates craftsmanship, I was particularly drawn to the intricate details of the metalwork and the vibrant textiles on display. It was a feast for the senses, and I found myself stopping every few steps to admire the handiwork and haggle for a few souvenirs.

Next, I visited the Bou Inania Madrasa, a stunning example of Marinid architecture. Commissioned by Sultan Abu Inan Faris in the 14th century, the madrasa served as both a religious school and a mosque, a testament to the city's rich intellectual and spiritual history. The intricate tilework, the detailed wood carvings, and the serene courtyard created a tranquil oasis amidst the bustling city. I spent a good hour wandering through its halls, imagining the scholars who once walked these corridors, their minds filled with knowledge and wisdom. The Madrasa is celebrated for its exquisite architecture, incorporating traditional Moroccan and Andalusian elements, blending complex geometric patterns, Arabic calligraphy, and detailed wood and stone carvings to create a visually stunning space. It is considered one of the most beautiful madrasas in Morocco, and its preservation has made it a cultural treasure.


Explore the architectural beauty and cultural significance of Bou Inania Madrasa, an essential stop in the historic city of Fes, Morocco.

Continuing my exploration, I made my way to the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts, housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century foundouk. As an antiques dealer, I was particularly excited about this stop, and it didn't disappoint. The museum's collection spanned centuries of Moroccan woodworking tradition, showcasing everything from intricate prayer beads to elaborate door locks. The craftsmanship was simply astounding, a testament to the skill and artistry of Moroccan artisans. The Nejjarine Museum represents more than just a collection of wooden artifacts – it's a living testament to Morocco’s Islamic artistic heritage. This tradition continues to thrive in cities like Marrakech, Tetouan, Essaouira, Meknes, and Fes itself, where modern craftspeople maintain the high standards set by their predecessors.


Discover the rich heritage of Moroccan craftsmanship at the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts in historic Fes.

For breakfast, I decided to try Cafe Clock, a Fez icon known for its fusion dishes and cultural activities. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast, complete with mint tea, fresh bread, and an assortment of local jams and spreads. The cafe's ambiance was lively and welcoming, a blend of tourists and local Moroccan youth, and I found myself chatting with a few fellow travelers, sharing stories and tips about our respective journeys.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Cafe Clock in Fes - where tradition meets contemporary dining in a vibrant atmosphere.

Lunch was at The Ruined Garden, a unique restaurant set in the atmospheric ruins of a courtyard house. The setting was enchanting, a verdant paradise filled with orange and lemon trees, jasmine and roses. The climate of Fez is a gardener's paradise, perfect for growing oranges and lemons as well as jasmine and roses. Lady of the night and angel's trumpets scent the evening air. I savored a selection of Moroccan salads and grilled meats, each dish bursting with flavor and freshness. The Ruined Garden came after the riad concept was established, taking great pride in providing delicious and traditional African, Mediterranean, and Moroccan cuisine in the old city.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors in an enchanting garden setting at The Ruined Garden in Fes.

As evening approached, I ventured to Coin Berbere Carpets & Antiques, a shop recommended by a local I met at Cafe Clock. The shop has been in the Bouzidi-Idrissi family for decades. I was immediately struck by the array of tribal carpets, each one a unique work of art. The owner, a knowledgeable and friendly man, shared stories about the different tribal groups and their weaving styles. I ended up purchasing a small Berber rug, a memento of my first day in Fes. The shop is renowned for its quality, prices and most of all the fact that there is absolutely no pressure to buy.


Explore the exquisite carpets and unique antiques at Coin Berbere, a family-owned gem in the heart of Fes, Morocco.

Dinner was at Restaurant Dar Hatim, a family-run restaurant known for its authentic Moroccan cuisine. The restaurant, originally a traditional house, has been transformed into an inviting space with ornate cedar roofs and opulent light fittings. The warm hospitality of the owners added to the welcoming atmosphere, and the food was simply divine. I savored a tagine, the meat tender and flavorful, a true taste of Moroccan home cooking. Manger dans ce restaurant avec la vue sur Kairaouine Mosque (Mosque of al-Qarawiyyin) sera une expérience inoubliable pour les visiteurs. The success of this place would be impossible without a competent hostess.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Restaurant Dar Hatim in Fès - where every meal tells a story of tradition and flavor.

As I reflect on my first day in Fes, I'm filled with a sense of wonder and excitement. This city is a living tapestry of history and culture, a place where the past and present seamlessly blend. I look forward to continuing my exploration tomorrow, with plans to visit the Al Attarine Madrasa, Chouara Tannery, and Dar al-Magana (Water Clock). I might even treat myself to a drink at Mezzanine, a local bar I heard about.

Before heading back to the guesthouse, I took a moment to wander through the medina, now quieter and more mysterious in the darkness. The scent of spices still hung in the air, and the sounds of the city had softened to a gentle murmur. As I walked, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this magical place. Fes, with its ancient medina and vibrant culture, had already captured my heart, and I knew that this solo adventure would be one for the books. It's easy to get lost here, as the medina is truly huge, and it can be challenging to get your bearings and find the right signage. But that's part of the fun; you never know where you might end up.

I'm also realizing that I forgot to pack my Arabic phrasebook and an extra phone charger! Note to self: add those to the shopping list tomorrow. For now, it's time to rest and recharge for another day of exploration in this captivating city.

Goodnight from Fes!