Solo Cultural Exploration in Fes, Morocco

Whispers of History and Serenity in Fes

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and sensory delights, a welcome contrast to the bustling energy of the Fes medina. I set out to explore some of the city's hidden gems, places where history whispers and the spirit finds solace. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel, to lose myself in the stories of the past and the beauty of the present.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Le Tarbouche. I enjoyed a simple meal of eggs, bread, and mint tea, fueling up for a day of exploration. The cafe was quiet, with only a few locals sipping their morning coffee and chatting softly. It was a peaceful start to what I hoped would be a day of discovery.


Savor authentic Moroccan flavors at Le Tarbouche in Fes – where tradition meets culinary delight.

My first stop was the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the founder of Fes. As a non-Muslim, I couldn't enter the mausoleum itself, but I could still appreciate the beauty and serenity of the surrounding courtyard. The architecture was stunning, with intricate tile work and soaring arches. The air was thick with the scent of incense and the murmur of prayers. Even from the outside, I could feel the spiritual significance of this place, the heart of Fes's religious identity. The mausoleum is considered one of the holiest sites in Morocco, and it's easy to see why. The devotion of the people who come here to pray is palpable, a testament to the enduring legacy of Moulay Idriss II.


Experience the sacred beauty of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II in Fes, a historic site that embodies Moroccan spirituality and artistry.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

Next on my list was the Aben Danan Synagogue, a hidden gem tucked away in the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter. Finding it was an adventure in itself, navigating the narrow, winding streets of the Mellah, a stark contrast to the grandeur of the medina. The synagogue dates back to the 17th century, built by Mimoun Ben Sidan, a merchant from a neighboring village, and has been restored several times over the centuries. Its unassuming exterior belies the rich history and beauty within. Stepping inside was like stepping back in time. The synagogue is small but exquisitely decorated, with blue-figured Moroccan tiles, carved wooden ceilings, and a beautiful Torah Ark. The light filtering through the high windows created a serene atmosphere. It was easy to imagine the generations of Jewish families who had prayed here, their voices echoing through the centuries. The synagogue had been closed for services during World War II, and since then had deteriorated. The plaster was peeling, the roofs were collapsing, the waterlogged beams were rotting, and windows were missing and broken. Thankfully, with help from family members living abroad, the synagogue reopened to the public in 1999. I found myself reflecting on the history of the Jewish community in Fes, their contributions to the city's culture and economy, and the challenges they had faced over the years. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the importance of preserving our shared heritage.


Explore the Aben Danan Synagogue in Fes, a stunning historical site showcasing Morocco's rich Jewish heritage and architectural beauty.

Leaving the synagogue, I felt a sense of peace and reverence. I decided to take a break from the intensity of the medina and head to Jnan Sbil, a large garden located between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali. The gardens were created in the 19th century by Sultan Moulay Hassan I and were originally reserved for the royal elite. They were opened to the public in 1917 and have since become a popular spot for locals and tourists alike. As I entered the gardens, I was immediately struck by the tranquility of the place. The air was fresh and clean, a welcome change from the dusty streets of the medina. The gardens were beautifully landscaped, with lush greenery, colorful flowers, and sparkling fountains. There were several distinct sections, including an Andalusian garden, a Mexican garden, and a bamboo garden. I strolled along the paths, admiring the diverse flora and fauna. I found a quiet bench near a pond and sat down to relax, listening to the birds singing and the water trickling. It was a perfect oasis of calm in the heart of the city. The gardens have been renovated several times, most recently between 2006 and 2010, and are now home to over 3000 plant species. They also feature historic water channels and water wheels that once supplied water to the old city.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Jnan Sbil, a serene garden oasis in Fes, Morocco, perfect for relaxation and exploration amidst lush greenery.

After spending a couple of hours in the gardens, I felt refreshed and rejuvenated. I decided to indulge in some retail therapy and headed to Fes Antiques, a shop I had heard about from other travelers. As Aoife often reminds me, I have a weakness for old maps and historical documents, and I was hoping to find a unique souvenir to bring home. The shop was located in a narrow alley in the medina, and it was filled to the brim with all sorts of treasures. There were carpets, pottery, jewelry, and of course, plenty of antiques. I spent a happy hour browsing the shelves, chatting with the owner, and examining the various artifacts. I finally settled on a beautiful old map of Fes, dating back to the early 20th century. It was a bit pricey, but I knew it would be a cherished memento of my trip.


Explore Fes Antiques: A mesmerizing blend of art, antiques, and Moroccan craftsmanship in a unique gift shop experience.

For lunch, I ventured to Restaurant Darna Fes, eager to immerse myself further in the local culinary scene. The restaurant was recommended for its authentic Moroccan dishes, and I was not disappointed. I ordered a tagine with chicken and olives, which was cooked to perfection. The flavors were rich and complex, a testament to the skill of the chef. The restaurant itself was charming, with traditional Moroccan decor and a cozy atmosphere. It was the perfect place to relax and refuel after a busy day of exploring.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Restaurant Darna Fes - a family-friendly bistro offering delightful vegan options.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Restaurant Palais Lahlou for dinner. This was a bit of a splurge, but I wanted to experience the best of Fes's culinary offerings. The restaurant was located in a beautifully restored palace, and the ambiance was elegant and refined. The menu featured a mix of traditional and modern Moroccan dishes, and I opted for a tasting menu that allowed me to sample a variety of flavors. Each course was a work of art, both visually and gastronomically. The service was impeccable, and the entire experience was truly memorable.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors in an enchanting setting at Restaurant Palais Lahlou in Fes.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, I reflected on the day's adventures. I had visited sacred sites, explored hidden synagogues, strolled through tranquil gardens, and discovered antique treasures. I had tasted the flavors of Fes and experienced the warmth of its people. It was a day that had nourished my soul and enriched my understanding of this fascinating city.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Borj Nord Museum, Fez El Jdid, and Bab Boujloud. I'm also hoping to find a nice bar for a relaxing evening drink. I've heard good things about Blue Wall, so I might check that out. For now, though, I'm content to savor the memories of today and look forward to new adventures tomorrow.

“To move, to breathe, to fly, to float, To gain all while you give, To roam on roads of lands remote, To travel is to live.”