Cultural Family Adventure in Historic Saint-Louis, Senegal

Whispers of the Wild

Today was a day of extraordinary encounters, a journey into the heart of Senegal’s natural beauty. It's funny, isn't it? How sometimes the most profound experiences come from simply observing the world around us, from listening to the whispers of the wind and the songs of the birds. Today, Senegal offered up a symphony, and I was all ears.

Our day began early, fueled by a hearty breakfast at MOUQUETS Restaurant. Francisca particularly enjoyed the fresh fruit, while Nilton devoured a plate of beignets – a sweet start to what promised to be a day of adventure. Lisbon may have its pastries, but Senegal certainly knows how to start the day with a smile.

Our destination was the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the world. As someone who appreciates history, genealogy, and the tranquility of birdwatching, I was particularly excited. The drive there was an experience in itself, watching the landscape shift from the bustling streets of Saint-Louis to the serene countryside. I couldn't help but think of my grandfather back in Tarrafal, Cabo Verde, a man who knew every bird by its song. I wish he could have been here with us.

Arriving at Djoudj, the air was alive with the sounds of thousands of birds. The sheer number of them was astounding – a swirling, cacophonous ballet in the sky. Pelicans, flamingos, herons, cormorants… a kaleidoscope of colors and species. Nilton was wide-eyed, pointing and shouting with excitement as he tried to identify each one. Even Francisca, who usually prefers the quiet of her sewing room, was captivated.

We took a traditional pirogue deeper into the sanctuary, gliding silently through the waterways. Our guide, a local man with an encyclopedic knowledge of the birds, pointed out various species and shared fascinating facts about their migration patterns and breeding habits. Apparently, January is the peak season, with millions of birds migrating from Europe to escape the winter. It was an incredible sight, a testament to the resilience and beauty of nature.

The earth has music for those who listen.

I tried to capture the scene with my camera, but no photograph could truly convey the feeling of being surrounded by such immense natural beauty. It was a moment of pure, unadulterated awe.


Discover the serene beauty and vast birdlife of Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, a UNESCO World Heritage treasure in Senegal.

After our time in Djoudj, we headed south to the Langue de Barbarie National Park, a narrow strip of land separating the Senegal River from the Atlantic Ocean. This unique ecosystem is home to a variety of bird species, as well as sea turtles and other wildlife. The landscape was starkly beautiful – a mix of sand dunes, mangroves, and the crashing waves of the ocean. The Langue de Barbarie owes its name to the Barbary fig that once grew abundantly along the sandy stretch.

We spent the afternoon exploring the park, walking along the beach, and watching the waves. Nilton, ever the curious explorer, collected seashells and chased after sand crabs. Francisca sat quietly, sketching in her notebook, capturing the essence of the landscape with her artistic eye.


Explore the serene Langue de Barbarie Nature Preserve, a haven for bird watchers and nature lovers in St. Louis, Senegal.

For lunch, we stopped at Restaurant Tangana, a local spot in the Guet N'Dar district. The restaurant was bustling with activity, and the aroma of grilled fish filled the air. We ordered a variety of dishes, including the local favorite, thieboudienne (fish and rice), and yassa poulet (chicken in onion sauce). The food was simple, flavorful, and incredibly satisfying.


Discover authentic Senegalese cuisine at Restaurant Tangana in Saint-Louis' vibrant Guet N'Dar district - where flavor meets culture.

As the sun began to set, we made our way back to Saint-Louis. Before heading back to our accommodation, we decided to stop at Iguane Cafe for a drink. The cafe had a lively atmosphere, with music and laughter filling the air. We sat outside, sipping our drinks and watching the world go by. I had a local Gazelle beer, while Francisca enjoyed a bissap juice (hibiscus flower drink), and Nilton had a coke. The Iguane Cafe is known as one of the hottest spots in town, with a Cuban bar style that’s quite unique. It was a perfect way to end a perfect day.


Discover the lively Iguane Cafe in St. Louis, a salsa bar where art meets rhythm, perfect for experiencing local nightlife and vibrant culture.

For dinner, we chose Restaurant Le SEDOR, a place recommended by several locals. The restaurant had a more formal atmosphere than Tangana, but the food was equally delicious. I opted for a grilled fish dish, while Francisca tried the maffe (beef stew in peanut sauce). Nilton, predictably, ordered a plate of fries. The food was delicious, and the service was excellent.


Experience authentic local cuisine at Restaurant Le SEDOR in St. Louis – where every dish tells a story.

As I sit here now, writing in my journal, I can still hear the sounds of the birds in my ears and feel the warmth of the Senegalese sun on my skin. Today was a reminder of the importance of slowing down, of connecting with nature, and of appreciating the simple things in life. It reminded me of the importance of sharing these experiences with my family.

Tomorrow, we plan to delve into the history of Saint-Louis, visiting the Musée Jean Mermoz and the CRDS (Centre de Recherches et de Documentation du Sénégal). Nilton is particularly excited about the Musée Jean Mermoz, as he’s always been fascinated by aviation. Francisca is looking forward to visiting Faby shop, hoping to find some inspiration for her embroidery. As for me, I am eager to learn more about the rich cultural heritage of this fascinating city.

Before I close for the night, I must share a thought that has been on my mind throughout the day. As a tour guide in Lisbon, I often share stories of the city's African influences. But being here, in Senegal, I feel a deeper connection to that history, a sense of understanding that goes beyond the pages of a book. It's a reminder that history is not just a collection of dates and facts, but a living, breathing entity that shapes our present and informs our future.

And now, with a grateful heart and a head full of memories, I bid you goodnight from Saint-Louis, Senegal. May your dreams be filled with the whispers of the wild.

It’s funny how travel can change a person. I feel more connected to my roots, more appreciative of the world around me, and more grateful for the love of my family. Perhaps that is the greatest souvenir of all.

As I reflect on the day, I realize that the forgotten binoculars would have been helpful at Djoudj, but in the end, the naked eye was enough to capture the essence of the experience. Sometimes, it's not about having the best equipment, but about being present in the moment.

And now, with a final glance at the starlit sky, I close my journal and drift off to sleep, dreaming of birds and sands, of family and history, of Senegal and Cabo Verde. Tomorrow awaits, with new adventures and new stories to tell.

Until then, boa noite from Saint-Louis.