Family Adventure in the Heart of Þórsmörk, Iceland

A Day of Discovery in Þórsmörk

Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of challenging hikes and serene discoveries that truly captured the essence of Þórsmörk. From the rugged trails leading to Fimmvorduhals Trailhead to the hidden beauty of Nauthúsagil, every moment was a testament to Iceland's raw and captivating landscapes. It was a day where the echoes of Viking sagas met the gentle whispers of hidden waterfalls, creating memories that I know our family will cherish for years to come.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at SVO Restaurant & Bar. Located in Hvolsvöllur, the restaurant was easy to find, being in the heart of South Iceland. We fueled up with some traditional Icelandic fare. I opted for the soup of the day, while Maximilian enjoyed the tiger prawn. Clara, of course, chose the familiar comfort of pancakes. SVO Restaurant & Bar combines Icelandic flavors with international dishes. I found it to be a great way to start our day, and with full stomachs, we set off towards our first adventure: the Fimmvorduhals Trailhead.


Explore the stunning Fimmvorduhals Trailhead, where breathtaking landscapes and adventure await every hiker in the heart of Iceland.

The drive to the trailhead was an experience in itself, the landscape transforming with every turn. As we approached the Fimmvorduhals Trailhead, I couldn't help but feel a surge of excitement mixed with a hint of trepidation. I knew that the Fimmvörðuháls hike is known as one of the most beautiful Icelandic hikes. The trail is a mountain pass between Skogar and Basar hut in Thorsmork. I had read so much about this iconic trail, a challenging path that winds between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers. I knew that the Fimmvörðuháls hike would be full of natural beauties, valleys, rivers, glaciers, and mountains. I made sure to pack warm clothing, as the weather can change quickly in the highlands.

The hike began with a steady incline, the path winding through a landscape that seemed to shift between lush greenery and stark volcanic rock. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of moss and damp earth. Clara, ever the energetic explorer, skipped ahead, her laughter echoing through the valleys. Maximilian and I followed at a more measured pace, taking in the panoramic views that unfolded with every step. The trail was challenging, with steep ascents and uneven terrain, but the stunning scenery kept us motivated.

As we climbed higher, the landscape transformed, the vegetation thinning out to reveal a stark, rocky terrain. The wind picked up, carrying with it the chill of the glaciers. We paused to catch our breath, marveling at the vastness of the surroundings. I remembered reading about the volcanic activity in this region, the Eyjafjallajökull eruption of 2010 having reshaped the landscape. It was humbling to stand in the presence of such raw, untamed power. While we didn't complete the entire Fimmvörðuháls trail, reaching a certain viewpoint felt like a victory in itself. We took some photos, capturing the moment, and began our descent, the promise of our next destination spurring us on.

The best view comes after the hardest climb.

After our hike, we were all starving. We piled back into our car and drove to Friðheimar for lunch. Friðheimar is located on the Golden Circle. Although it was a bit of a drive from Þórsmörk, I had heard so many wonderful things about this tomato farm and restaurant that I knew it would be worth it.


Experience farm-to-table dining in Iceland at Friðheimar's enchanting greenhouse restaurant featuring fresh tomato dishes.

As we approached Friðheimar, the sight of the greenhouses rising from the landscape was striking. Stepping inside, we were immediately enveloped in a warm, humid atmosphere, the air thick with the sweet scent of ripe tomatoes. Rows upon rows of tomato plants stretched out before us, their vibrant green leaves a stark contrast to the rugged Icelandic landscape outside.

We were seated at a table amidst the tomato vines, the setting creating a unique and immersive dining experience. The menu, as expected, was dominated by tomatoes, with creative dishes that showcased the versatility of this humble fruit. I ordered the tomato soup, which was served with freshly baked bread, cucumber salsa, and sour cream. Maximilian opted for the tomato pasta, while Clara, surprisingly, chose the tomato ice cream. Every dish was bursting with flavor, the freshness of the ingredients evident in every bite.

After our delightful lunch, we explored the greenhouses, learning about the sustainable farming practices that Friðheimar employs. The use of geothermal energy to heat the greenhouses was particularly fascinating, a testament to Iceland's innovative approach to agriculture. We also visited the Icelandic horse show, where we learned about the history of Icelandic horses. Before leaving, we purchased some tomato jam and chutney from the little tomato shop, eager to bring a taste of Friðheimar back home.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we set off towards our final destination for the day: Nauthúsagil. The drive to Nauthúsagil was relatively short, taking us along Route 249, passing Seljalandsfoss. As we drove along road F-249, I was glad that we didn't have to cross any rivers, as that part of the road requires a mountain road vehicle. Nauthúsagil is located just off Route 249, behind the Stóra-Mörk farm. The name Nauthúsagil translates roughly to Bull Shed Ravine. Nauthúsagil is known for its canyon and unique elements.


Discover Nauthúsagil, a breathtaking canyon in Iceland that offers stunning waterfalls, unique geological formations, and serene hiking trails.

The hike to the waterfall was relatively short, but it felt like stepping into another world. The ravine was narrow, with moss-covered walls that rose high above us, creating a sense of enclosure and mystery. A small stream trickled through the center, its gentle murmur the only sound breaking the silence. The sunlight filtered through the canopy of rowan trees overhead, casting dappled shadows on the path.

We followed the stream, wading through shallow pools and clambering over rocks. The air was damp and cool, carrying the scent of moss and ferns. Clara was in her element, splashing in the water and exploring every nook and cranny. As we ventured deeper into the ravine, the sound of rushing water grew louder, signaling our approach to the waterfall.

And then, there it was – a cascade of water tumbling down a mossy cliff face, creating a scene of ethereal beauty. The waterfall wasn't particularly large, but its secluded location and the surrounding greenery gave it a magical quality. We stood in awe, mesmerized by the sight and sound of the water. I took some photos, trying to capture the essence of this hidden gem.

We spent some time exploring the area around the waterfall, climbing over rocks and wading in the pool at its base. Clara even attempted to catch a fish, her efforts ending in peals of laughter. Eventually, we retraced our steps, making our way back through the ravine, the memory of the waterfall etched in our minds. The hike took us about 1.5 hours, which included stopping for photos.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Hygge Restaurant & Bar for dinner. Hygge Restaurant & Bar is located in Hvolsvöllur. The restaurant offers a unique fusion of Latin American cuisine and fresh seafood. I ordered the lamb sirloin, and Maximilian tried the horse fillet. Clara enjoyed the handmade pumpkin ravioli. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, and the service was excellent.


Experience the cozy charm of Hygge Restaurant & Bar, where Latin American flavors meet the freshness of Icelandic seafood for an unforgettable dining experience.

Reflecting on the day, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences we had shared. From the challenging hike to Fimmvorduhals Trailhead to the serene beauty of Nauthúsagil, every moment had been a gift. And as we prepared for another day of adventure, I couldn't help but wonder what tomorrow would bring. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Þórólfsfell and Sólheimajökull.

It's days like these that remind me why I love Iceland so much. The raw, untamed beauty of the landscape, the warmth and hospitality of the people, and the sense of adventure that permeates the air – it's a combination that never fails to captivate me. And as I share these experiences with my family, I feel a deep sense of connection to my homeland, a desire to preserve its beauty for generations to come.