Solo Wilderness Adventure in Sarek National Park

Island Time: Kosterhavet National Park Beckons

Today was a day of coastal exploration and culinary indulgence, a delightful escape from the rugged trails I've been traversing. After several days immersed in the stark beauty of Sarek, the transition to Kosterhavet National Park was a welcome change of pace. It reminded me of the importance of variety in travel – the balance between challenging hikes and serene, scenic explorations.


Discover Kosterhavet National Park, Sweden's first marine national park, where stunning landscapes and rich biodiversity await your exploration.
The journey here was quite straightforward, a pleasant contrast to the multi-legged trek to Sarek. I hopped on a train and then a bus, each ride offering glimpses of the Swedish countryside. The landscape transformed from dense forests to charming coastal vistas. It made me think of Maximilian and Clara back in Dresden. Clara would have loved the ferry ride to the islands, I'm sure. Maybe next time, I'll bring them along for a less strenuous adventure.

Kosterhavet's Marine Majesty

Kosterhavet National Park is Sweden's first marine national park, and it certainly lives up to its reputation. The air is crisp and clean, carrying the scent of saltwater and pine. The park is a haven for marine life, boasting around 12,000 animal and plant species. I spent the morning hiking along the coastal trails, the views were simply breathtaking. The rocky shores meet the clear blue waters, creating a stunning contrast. I could see why this place is so beloved by Swedes and tourists alike.

I even considered joining one of the guided kayaking tours, imagining myself gliding silently across the water, spotting seals and seabirds. Perhaps I'll indulge in that activity next time. For now, I was content with exploring the islands on foot, breathing in the fresh sea air, and capturing the picturesque scenery with my camera. I must remember to buy extra batteries; I almost ran out of power today!

The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.

A Culinary Journey at Restaurant Krogen Stora Gungan

After a morning of exploration, my stomach started rumbling, and it was time to head to Restaurant Krogen Stora Gungan. Fortunately, there was one in Kosterhavet National Park, which made it very convenient. The restaurant promised an authentic Swedish culinary experience, and it certainly delivered. Nestled in a rustic 1880s building, the atmosphere was warm and inviting. It felt like stepping back in time, a cozy retreat from the coastal winds.


Experience authentic Swedish cuisine amidst the scenic beauty of Djurgården at Restaurant Krogen Stora Gungan.
I decided to treat myself to a full Swedish experience, opting for breakfast, lunch, and dinner at Krogen Stora Gungan. For breakfast, I enjoyed a traditional Swedish smörgås with gravlax and a cup of strong coffee. The gravlax was perfectly cured, melting in my mouth with a delicate balance of sweetness and saltiness. It was the perfect way to start the day. Lunch was a hearty serving of Swedish meatballs with lingonberry sauce and creamy mashed potatoes. The meatballs were tender and flavorful, and the lingonberry sauce added a delightful tangy sweetness. It was comfort food at its finest. For dinner, I indulged in fresh herring, prepared in a variety of ways. Pickled herring, fried herring, and creamy herring – each dish was a celebration of the sea's bounty. The flavors were bold and distinct, showcasing the freshness of the ingredients.

The menu at Krogen Stora Gungan is a gastronomic tribute to Swedish food history, with classic dishes prepared with care and tradition. They take pride in offering simple and additive-free food. The lunch menu includes well-prepared classics such as Biff Rydberg, potato dumplings, raggmunk and homemade sausage, as well as cod with horseradish, salmon pudding, herring and pancakes with seasonal jam. They also present other dishes with typical original ingredients such as naked oats and vendace roe. The menu is constantly updated.

Tiveden National Park: A Quick Detour

On the way back from Kosterhavet, I made a quick stop at Tiveden National Park. The park is known for its rugged terrain, old-growth forests, and crystal-clear lakes. I didn't have much time for a proper hike, but I did manage to visit the park's shop. It was quite small with a limited selection. I was hoping to find some unique souvenirs or local crafts, but I ended up just grabbing a map and a small snack. I will probably need to stock up on supplies before heading to Sarek.

Reflections on the Day

As the day draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the contrasting experiences of the past few days. From the challenging solitude of Sarek to the coastal charm of Kosterhavet, each location has offered its own unique perspective on Sweden's natural beauty. The delicious meals at Krogen Stora Gungan were a welcome indulgence, a reminder of the simple pleasures in life.

Tomorrow, I'm off to Gotska Sandön National Park, another island paradise with its own unique charm. I'm looking forward to exploring its sandy beaches, dense pine forests, and rich cultural history. I might even visit the ICEBAR Stockholm by ICEHOTEL for a drink. It promises to be another day of adventure and discovery.

I am already looking forward to sharing more stories and photographs with you all. Stay tuned for more updates from my solo wilderness adventure in Sweden!