Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Farewell to Kumano Kodo
As our journey through the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the profound experiences and spiritual connections we've made along the way. Today, our final day, was a blend of sacred exploration, culinary delights, and moments of serene contemplation. It's hard to believe that fifteen days have already passed since Daniel and I embarked on this adventure. From the tranquil forests to the vibrant local markets, every step has been a lesson in appreciating the beauty and simplicity of life.

We began our day with a hearty breakfast at Yorozuya Eatery. Knowing we had a day of exploration ahead, I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup and pickled vegetables. Daniel, ever the adventurous one, tried the okonomiyaki, a savory pancake that the eatery is known for. The cozy atmosphere and the friendly staff made us feel right at home, a perfect start to our last day on the trails. It reminded me of our favorite little cafe back in London, where the familiar faces and comforting food always brighten our mornings.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.
Fueled and ready, we set out to visit the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship. The shrine is located about 10 kilometers inland from the Katsuura village, so we took a local bus to reach the site. As we approached, the vibrant vermillion lacquered worship hall stood out against the lush greenery of Mount Nachi. Climbing the 467 stone steps to the main hall was a bit of a challenge, but the sacred atmosphere and the stunning views made it worth every step.


Explore the cultural and natural beauty of Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine, a serene Shinto sanctuary in Wakayama, Japan.
Inside the shrine grounds, we explored the ancient camphor tree, said to be around 850 years old. We even experienced the Tainai Kuguri, passing through the womb of the tree as a symbol of rebirth – a truly unique and spiritual moment. Daniel, always the history enthusiast, was fascinated by the shrine's origins in nature worship and its connection to Nachi Falls. The falls themselves have been revered since ancient times and are considered one of Japan's best three waterfalls.

Every step on the Kumano Kodo is a step deeper into the heart of Japan, a journey of self-discovery and spiritual awakening.

After immersing ourselves in the serene ambiance of Kumano-Nachi Taisha, we embarked on a hike along a section of the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route (Chikatsuyu-Oji - Kobiro-Oji Section). This part of the trail is known for its natural beauty, and it certainly lived up to its reputation. As we walked through the verdant landscapes and ancient cedar forests, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility. The trail meandered through picturesque mountain views, making it a photographer's paradise. I made sure to capture as many moments as I could, knowing these images would be treasured memories for years to come.


Journey through the stunning Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, where nature, history, and spirituality intertwine in Japan's sacred landscape.
The Nakahechi route has a rich history, once used by emperors and nobles from the 10th century onwards. Knowing that we were walking in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims added a layer of depth to the experience. We passed by small, isolated villages and historical sites, each telling a story of devotion and reverence. The well-marked path made it easy to navigate, and we took our time, savoring the tranquility of the surroundings.

For lunch, we stopped at Sansaro Cafe. This mountain-side cool homestay is nestled in the Kumano-gawa village, offering a cozy and welcoming atmosphere. We enjoyed freshly brewed coffees and light snacks, taking a moment to relax and reflect on our journey. The cafe is known for its friendly service and attention to detail, making us feel valued and catered to. Daniel particularly enjoyed chatting with the owner, Ms. Uzawa, who shared her passion for yoga, music, and the vitality of the Kumano region.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.
In the afternoon, we decided to visit Toretore Market. This bustling market is a treasure trove of fresh fish, local food, and drinks. We wandered through the stalls, admiring the vibrant displays of seafood and local produce. The market is also an ideal spot to pick up some local pickled plums as a souvenir. We sampled a few delicacies, including some freshly grilled seafood, and soaked in the lively atmosphere. Daniel, always on the lookout for unique culinary experiences, was thrilled to try the local sake.


Experience the vibrant Toretore Market in Shirahama, where local crafts, fresh seafood, and authentic Japanese souvenirs await every traveler.
For our final dinner, we chose Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. This charming guest house offers an authentic Italian culinary feast, located a short walk from Nejiki-no-Sugi along the Shiomi-toge route. Giovanni dal Bosco, the owner and chef, creates Verona-style Italian cooking with local ingredients. The restaurant was even listed in The Michelin Guide in 2022. We savored each dish, appreciating the fresh, seasonal ingredients and the warm hospitality. The experience was a perfect blend of gastronomy and culture, a fitting end to our Kumano Kodo adventure.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.
As the sun set on our final day, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for this incredible journey. The Kumano Kodo had offered us not only stunning landscapes and spiritual insights but also a chance to connect with each other and ourselves on a deeper level. Daniel and I shared stories and laughter as we thought about the incredible people we met along the way. We reminisced about the peacefulness of Koyasan, the beauty of the forests, and the warmth of the local communities. These memories will stay with us forever.

Tomorrow, we begin our journey back home to London. While I am eager to return to our cozy flat and resume my work as a marketing consultant, a part of me will always remain on these sacred trails. The Kumano Kodo has left an indelible mark on my soul, and I know that this is just the beginning of our adventures in Japan. Until next time, sayōnara!