Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Ancients

Today was a day of profound connection, not just with nature, but with centuries of pilgrims who have walked these paths before us. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and the murmur of ancient spirits as we delved deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo. It’s amazing how a place can feel so untouched, so sacred, despite the passage of time. Today was about experiencing the raw power and serene beauty of Japan's spiritual heartland.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Watarase onsen cafe. Fuelled up, Daniel and I set off towards Nachi Waterfall, eager to witness its legendary cascade. The journey itself was a treat, with glimpses of the lush Wakayama countryside flashing past the train windows. As we approached the falls, the air grew cooler, carrying the refreshing mist of the approaching cascade.

Reaching Nachi Waterfall was an awe-inspiring moment. Dropping 133 meters, it is the tallest waterfall in Japan. The sight of the water plunging into the emerald pool below, surrounded by ancient forest, was simply breathtaking. I could see why this place has been considered sacred for centuries. The vibrant greenery against the backdrop of the powerful falls created a scene straight out of a painting. We took our time here, snapping photos and simply soaking in the atmosphere. Daniel, ever the pragmatist, was fascinated by the engineering feats that allowed people to get so close to such a powerful force of nature. I was more drawn to the spiritual aspect, feeling a sense of peace and connection with something larger than myself.


Discover the stunning Nachi Waterfall in Wakayama, Japan—one of the tallest and most sacred waterfalls in the country, surrounded by lush nature and rich culture.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are the ones that connect us to something bigger than ourselves.

Next on our itinerary was Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a grand shrine with a history stretching back some 1,700 years. Founded as a site to worship Nachi Waterfall, the shrine embodies a deep reverence for nature. The climb up to the shrine was a bit strenuous, but the stunning views along the way made it worthwhile. As we ascended the stone steps, surrounded by towering trees, I felt a sense of anticipation, a feeling of stepping back in time.


Discover the spiritual heart of Japan at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a UNESCO World Heritage site blending nature, culture, and tranquility.

Kumano Nachi Taisha is part of the Kumano Sanzan, three grand shrines of Kumano. The shrine's vermillion buildings stood in striking contrast to the surrounding green forest. We explored the main courtyard, admiring the intricate details of the architecture and the serene atmosphere. I found myself particularly drawn to the sacred camphor tree, an 850-year-old giant with a hollow trunk that you can actually enter. Paying a small offering, I stepped inside, feeling an incredible surge of energy from this ancient being. Daniel chuckled at my enthusiasm, but even he admitted feeling a certain sense of awe in the presence of such a venerable tree.

One of the unique aspects of Kumano Nachi Taisha is its historical integration with Seiganto-ji Temple. For centuries, Shinto and Buddhist traditions coexisted here, a testament to Japan's syncretic religious history. Although the two were formally separated in the late 19th century, the temple and shrine still stand side-by-side, a reminder of this intertwined past. We also saw a statue of Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow, a divine messenger in Japanese mythology. According to legend, the Yatagarasu guided Emperor Jimmu, the first emperor of Japan, through the Kumano region.

After a morning of exploration and spiritual immersion, our stomachs were rumbling. We headed to Sansaro Cafe for lunch. This charming cafe is known for its cozy atmosphere and delicious coffee, and is an ideal retreat for tourists exploring the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. I opted for a light salad with local vegetables, while Daniel devoured a hearty curry. The cafe's peaceful ambiance was the perfect setting to relax and reflect on our experiences of the morning.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

As the afternoon drew to a close, we made our way to Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for dinner. This unique establishment combines a guesthouse with an Italian restaurant, offering a delightful culinary experience. The owner, Giovanni dal Bosco, is an Italian chef who grows his own ingredients and makes his own wine. The restaurant was even listed in the Michelin Guide in 2022. We enjoyed a delicious Verona-style meal, savoring the fresh, local flavors and the warm hospitality of Giovanni and his staff. Daniel, a wine enthusiast, was particularly impressed with the locally produced wine, while I enjoyed the homemade pasta and the charming, rustic atmosphere.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

To cap off the evening, we decided to check out Why Kumano, a local bar. It's conveniently located near Kii-Katsuura Station. The bar had a friendly atmosphere and a good selection of local craft beers and sake. It was the perfect spot to unwind and chat with some of the locals, learning more about the area and its culture. Daniel enjoyed trying a few different types of sake, while I stuck to a refreshing local beer.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

As we walked back to our accommodation, the stars were beginning to pepper the night sky. Today had been a whirlwind of natural beauty, spiritual exploration, and culinary delights. The Kumano Kodo is truly a special place, a place where you can connect with nature, history, and yourself. I am so glad to be sharing this experience with Daniel, and I am excited for what tomorrow will bring.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Oyunohara, the site of the original Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine, and hike the Koyazaka Slope. We'll also be having breakfast at Yorozuya Eatery, lunch at Tororoya, and dinner at Takehara. I'm also hoping to find some unique souvenirs at Guest House & Coffee Keyaki. I can't wait to see what adventures await us on day three of our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

“The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” I feel like we’ve taken many steps today, both literally and figuratively, drawing us deeper into the heart of this ancient pilgrimage route. Good night from Kumano Kodo!