Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Day of Sacred Discoveries

Today, Daniel and I embarked on a journey that resonated deeply with the spiritual essence of Kumano Kodo. From the echoing halls of ancient shrines to the tranquil shores where land meets sea, every moment was a testament to the rich cultural and natural tapestry of this region. The day unfolded with a blend of exploration, reflection, and culinary delights, leaving us with memories that I know we will both cherish.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Onigajō cliff Center. The food was delicious, and the views of the rugged coastline were simply breathtaking. The cliff formations themselves are a testament to the power of nature, shaped over millennia by the relentless waves. It was the perfect spot to fuel up before diving into our day of shrine visits and cultural immersion.


Experience authentic Mie Prefecture cuisine at Onigajō Cliff Center while enjoying breathtaking coastal views and unique souvenirs.

Kumano Hayatama Taisha: A Dive into History

Our first stop was the Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a site that exudes history and spiritual significance. Located at the mouth of the Kumano-gawa River, where the waters from the Kii Mountains meet the Pacific, the shrine is nestled in nature, which is integral to its annual rituals. As we approached, I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence, a connection to the countless pilgrims who have walked this path before us. The shrine's architecture is beautiful, blending seamlessly with the natural surroundings.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

One of the highlights was the ancient Nagi-no-Ki tree, an 800-year-old Podocarpus nagi, which stands as a symbol of nature worship. We spent some time simply admiring its grandeur, imagining the stories it could tell. Daniel, ever the history enthusiast, was captivated by the shrine's history, tracing its roots back to ancient traditions. I learned that the shrine is known for the Mifune Matsuri, an annual festival held on October 16th, where boats race on the Kumano-gawa River. Although we were not there for the festival, the vibrant descriptions made me wish we could witness such a spectacle.

The journey through Kumano Kodo is as much about the inner pilgrimage as it is about the outer exploration.

Ascending to Kamikura Shrine

Next on our itinerary was Kamikura Shrine, a place of profound spiritual importance. Unlike the sprawling grounds of Hayatama Taisha, reaching Kamikura Shrine required a bit of a climb – 538 steep stone steps leading up Mt. Gongen-yama. I must admit, the ascent was challenging, especially in the summer heat, and I was glad that I had packed light. But as we climbed, the views became increasingly rewarding, offering glimpses of the surrounding landscape and the Kumano-nada Sea.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

Reaching the top, we were greeted by the Gotobiki-iwa, a massive, sacred rock that is revered as the dwelling place of one of the shrine's deities. Legend says that the gods of Kumano first descended to this rock. The panoramic view from the shrine was breathtaking, stretching across the Shingu area and out to the sea. It felt like a true culmination of our efforts, a moment of serene triumph.

Daniel and I took some time to soak in the atmosphere, reflecting on the history and significance of this sacred site. Kamikura Shrine is also known for the Oto Matsuri, a fire festival held every year on February 6th, where men dressed in white run down the steps carrying torches. It sounds like an incredible sight, a dramatic display of faith and tradition.

A Taste of Local Flavors

After our morning of shrine visits, we were ready for a delicious lunch. We headed to Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, a charming spot located in the heart of the Yunomine Onsen area. This casual Japanese-style restaurant is known for its traditional dishes made with fresh, local ingredients. I opted for one of their teishoku sets, a hearty meal with a variety of small dishes. Daniel chose a rice bowl, and we shared a side of local pickles. The food was simple but satisfying, a perfect reflection of the region's culinary heritage.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

The dining hall also functions as a newsstand, offering local news and travel information. It was a great place to relax, refuel, and learn more about the area. We chatted with some fellow travelers, swapping stories and recommendations. We also learned that Yunomine Onsen is famous for its hot springs, and people cook eggs in the hot spring waters.

Sweet Treats and Seaside Views

In the afternoon, we made a stop at Moudemochi, a local shop known for its traditional mochi. These small, round rice cakes are a regional specialty, and I was eager to try them. We bought a few to share, savoring the soft, chewy texture and the sweet red bean paste filling. It was a delightful treat, a perfect pick-me-up after our morning adventures.


Discover the art of Japanese sweets at Moudemochi, where traditional mochi meets a serene dining experience in the heart of Nachikatsuura.

Before dinner, we took a leisurely stroll along the coast, enjoying the sea breeze and the stunning views. The coastline in this area is truly remarkable, with rugged cliffs, hidden coves, and crystal-clear waters. It was a perfect way to unwind and appreciate the natural beauty of the Kumano region.

A Tranquil Dinner at Fushiogami Teahouse

As evening approached, we made our way to Fushiogami Teahouse for dinner, drawn by its reputation as a serene retreat along the Kumano Kodo. This charming cafe specializes in traditional Japanese teas and snacks, offering a peaceful respite for weary travelers. The teahouse itself exudes warmth and tranquility, with traditional Japanese decor and views of the surrounding greenery.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

We savored a selection of teas and snacks, enjoying the quiet ambiance and the company of fellow pilgrims. The staff were incredibly friendly, sharing stories about the teahouse and the history of the Kumano Kodo. It was more than just a meal; it was an experience, a chance to connect with the local culture and the spiritual essence of the pilgrimage route.

As the day drew to a close, I felt a profound sense of gratitude for the experiences we had shared. From the ancient shrines to the tranquil teahouse, every moment had been a testament to the beauty and spirituality of Kumano Kodo. Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Totsui Limestone Cave and hike a portion of the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. I am looking forward to another day of discovery, another chapter in our journey through this sacred land. For now, I'll rest and reflect on the beauty of today, ready for whatever adventures tomorrow may bring.

And now, it's time to rest and recharge, dreaming of the adventures that await us tomorrow. Goodnight from Kumano Kodo!