Solo Art Exploration on Naoshima Island

A Day of Discovery in Honmura

Today was all about embracing the unexpected and venturing beyond the well-trodden paths of Naoshima's famous museums. I decided to dedicate my day to exploring the Honmura district, a charming village known for its Art House Project and the serene beauty of everyday life. It was a day of delightful surprises, delicious food, and a deeper connection with the island's soul.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at APRON CAFE. Tucked away in a quiet corner of Honmura, this cafe is a hidden gem. The moment I stepped inside, I felt like I was entering someone's cozy home. The simple furniture, the warm smiles of the staff, and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee created an inviting atmosphere. I opted for the seasonal set lunch, which featured local Spanish mackerel with a Spanish-style omelette and a medley of fresh vegetables. It was not only delicious but also incredibly nourishing, prepared by a certified nutritionist using ingredients sourced from the Setouchi region. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration.


Experience culinary delights amidst the artistic beauty of Naoshima at APRON CAFE - where every meal tells a story.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

With a full stomach and a spring in my step, I headed towards the Seaside Gallery. Designed by Tadao Ando, the gallery itself is a work of art, with its long, narrow structure and the abundance of natural light pouring in through the large east-facing opening. The gallery's location, overlooking the ocean, added to the sense of tranquility and contemplation. The exhibits were thought-provoking, prompting me to reflect on the relationship between art, nature, and human experience. It's amazing how Ando's architecture enhances the art viewing experience, making it even more immersive. It reminded me a bit of some of the sustainable architectural projects David works on back in Berlin – always aiming to blend seamlessly with the environment.


Experience the intersection of contemporary art and nature at the Seaside Gallery on Naoshima Island, a must-visit modern art museum.

Next on my list was the Honmura Lounge & Archive. This space serves as the information center for the Art House Project, and it's also a fascinating archive of the project's history and the artists involved. The building itself was once an agricultural cooperative supermarket, and the architect Ryue Nishizawa has preserved much of its original structure, creating a unique blend of old and new. I purchased my tickets for the Art House Project here and spent some time browsing the exhibits, learning about the various artists and their installations. It was incredibly helpful to get an overview of the project before venturing out to explore the individual art houses.


Explore Naoshima's artistic essence at Honmura Lounge & Archive, where culture meets relaxation amidst stunning landscapes.

For lunch, I decided to try Okonomiyaki Umikko, drawn in by the promise of authentic Japanese comfort food. Okonomiyaki is often described as a Japanese pancake, but it's so much more than that. It's a savory dish filled with a variety of ingredients, from cabbage and meat to seafood and cheese. The version at Umikko was particularly delicious, with a perfect balance of flavors and textures. The restaurant itself has a charming Japanese garden, adding to the overall experience. It's a popular spot with locals and tourists alike, and I can see why – it's a true taste of Naoshima.


Savor authentic okonomiyaki at Okonomiyaki Umikko on Naoshima Island—where every bite celebrates local flavors and culinary artistry.

As the afternoon wore on, I continued my exploration of the Art House Project, wandering through the narrow streets of Honmura and discovering hidden art installations in unexpected places. The Art House Project is such a unique concept, transforming abandoned houses into works of art and weaving them into the fabric of the community. It's a testament to the power of art to revitalize and transform spaces, giving them new life and meaning. I am particularly excited for tomorrow, when I will be visiting the Art House Project: Haisha and the Ando Museum.

For dinner, I chose Nagomi, a restaurant located within the Naoshima welfare center. This might seem like an unusual choice, but it turned out to be one of the most authentic and memorable dining experiences of my trip. Nagomi specializes in 'Syokudo and Teishoku', offering casual dining and set meals featuring fresh, local ingredients. The atmosphere was warm and welcoming, and I found myself sharing a table with a group of locals who were eager to chat and share their stories. It was a wonderful opportunity to connect with the community and experience Naoshima from a different perspective. I opted for one of the seasonal set meals, which was both delicious and incredibly affordable. It felt like I was eating a home-cooked meal, prepared with love and care.


Discover Nagomi in Naoshima - where authentic Japanese dining meets community spirit in a cozy setting.

As the day drew to a close, I decided to check out Naoshima Yokocho, a local bar that promised a taste of Naoshima's nightlife. Yokocho are traditional Japanese alleyways filled with small bars and restaurants, and Naoshima Yokocho was no exception. The atmosphere was lively and convivial, with locals and tourists mingling and enjoying drinks and snacks. I sampled some local sake and chatted with the friendly bartenders, learning more about the island's history and culture. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration, soaking in the local atmosphere and enjoying the company of new friends. I thought of David, and how much he would have enjoyed this place – he always appreciates a good local dive.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Naoshima Yokocho, an izakaya that captures the essence of Naoshima's culinary culture amidst stunning art and nature.

Tonight, as I reflect on my day in Honmura, I am struck by the sense of community and the power of art to connect people and places. Naoshima is more than just a collection of museums and art installations; it's a living, breathing community with a rich history and a vibrant culture. By venturing beyond the well-trodden paths and exploring the hidden corners of the island, I was able to experience a deeper connection with its soul. I am excited for tomorrow, when I will continue my exploration of Naoshima's art scene, visiting the Art House Project: Haisha and the Ando Museum. I'm also looking forward to trying Café Ippo for breakfast and Restaurant EN for dinner, and perhaps doing a little shopping at Shimacoya. But for now, it's time to rest and recharge, ready for another day of art and adventure on this magical island.