A Solo Pilgrimage Through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Sakai's Charms: A Day of Discovery

Today was a day dedicated to exploring Sakai, a city rich in history and natural beauty, just a short distance from Osaka. It was a change of pace from the Kumano Kodo trails, but equally rewarding. I was eager to see what cultural and culinary treasures Sakai held, and it certainly didn't disappoint.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Fushiogami Teahouse. While technically, this teahouse is more known for its location along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, I was delighted to find a branch here in Sakai. It was the perfect way to start the day, sipping on traditional Japanese tea and enjoying some light snacks. The serene atmosphere prepped me for a day of exploration. I savored the quiet moments, reflecting on my Kumano Kodo journey so far, before heading out to my first destination: Daisen Park Japanese Garden.


Explore the serene beauty of Daisen Park Japanese Garden in Sakai, Osaka, where traditional landscaping meets tranquil nature.

Daisen Park Japanese Garden: A Tranquil Oasis

Daisen Park is a sprawling green space that houses a stunning Japanese garden. As I stepped through the entrance, I was immediately transported to a world of meticulously manicured landscapes, serene ponds, and carefully arranged flora. The garden was built to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Sakai becoming a city, and it truly embodies the spirit of blending history and culture.

Wandering through the garden, I admired the traditional gardening techniques that created such a peaceful environment. The gentle sound of flowing water, the vibrant green of the trees, and the pops of color from the seasonal flowers created a harmonious symphony for the senses. I spent a good couple of hours simply strolling along the winding paths, crossing charming bridges, and pausing to take in the beauty of the carefully designed scenery. The garden's design, with its artificial mountains, waterfalls, streams, and ponds, truly felt like a miniature natural landscape.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks. - John Muir

One of the highlights was the cypress rest area, which reminded me of the gathering places of wealthy merchants during the 15th century. It was a perfect spot to sit, relax, and soak in the tranquil atmosphere. I also enjoyed the various zones within the garden, each with its unique character, from the serene ponds to the vibrant flower displays. I took countless photos, trying to capture the essence of this beautiful oasis. It was a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of city life, and I felt a deep sense of peace and rejuvenation as I explored its every corner. I found myself thinking about Jean-Pierre and Sophie, imagining how much they would have loved wandering through this tranquil space with me. Perhaps we can plan a trip back here together someday.

Sakai City Museum: A Journey Through Time

After immersing myself in the beauty of Daisen Park, I made my way to the Sakai City Museum, located within the park grounds. Eager to delve into the history and culture of the region, I was excited to explore the exhibits. The museum commemorates the 90th anniversary of Sakai's municipalization, offering a comprehensive look at the city’s past.


Explore the fascinating history and culture of Sakai at the Sakai City Museum, where the past meets the present in captivating exhibitions.

The museum is divided into several sections, each focusing on a different period of Sakai's history. From ancient artifacts excavated from the Mozu Kofun Group to displays showcasing Sakai's prosperous trading days, there was something to captivate every history enthusiast. I was particularly fascinated by the exhibits on the Kofun period, learning about the ancient burial mounds and the artifacts discovered within them. The replicas of Emperor Nintoku's sarcophagus and armor were especially impressive.

I also enjoyed the sections dedicated to Sakai's role as an autonomous city, run by powerful merchants. Seeing the historical documents and goods from that era gave me a sense of the city's vibrant past. The museum also featured exhibits on Sakai-born historical figures, including Gyōki and Sen-no Rikyu, providing insights into their contributions to Japanese culture. I spent hours wandering through the halls, reading the informative displays, and admiring the artifacts. It was a fascinating journey through time, and I left with a deeper appreciation for the rich heritage of Sakai. It was interesting to learn about Sakai's open mind philosophy, which has allowed the city to flourish through cultural exchange and diverse traditions.

Culinary Delights: A Taste of Sakai

After a morning of cultural exploration, it was time to indulge in some of Sakai's culinary offerings. For lunch, I decided to try Hinoki Steak House, known for its delicious steaks and hamburgs. I opted for the Kumano Beef Steak Hamburg, eager to sample the local specialty. The hamburg steak was cooked to perfection, juicy and flavorful, and the accompanying sides were equally delicious. The restaurant had a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, and the staff were friendly and attentive. It was a satisfying and enjoyable meal, and I left feeling energized for the rest of my day.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

As the afternoon wore on, I found myself drawn to the quaint charm of Sansaro Cafe for dinner. This cozy spot offered a comforting ambiance, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration. I decided to try some of their local specialties, eager to experience the authentic flavors of the region. The cafe was opened by Ms. Uzawa, who is passionate about yoga, music, food, and healing.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

The meal was a delightful experience, and I savored each bite while enjoying the cafe's serene atmosphere. The staff were incredibly welcoming, making me feel right at home. It was the perfect way to end a day of cultural immersion and culinary exploration. As I sipped my tea, I reflected on the day's adventures, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty and charm of Sakai.

Evening Relaxation: Minshuku Kuraya

To cap off the day, I decided to visit Minshuku Kuraya, a local bar known for its cozy atmosphere. I wanted to experience a bit of Sakai's nightlife and unwind after a day of sightseeing. The bar had a warm and inviting ambiance, and I struck up a conversation with some locals, learning more about the city and its people. It was a fun and relaxing way to end the day, and I felt a sense of connection to the community as I shared stories and laughter with my new friends. I learned that Minshuku Kuraya is a traditional lodging that offers guests an authentic experience of Japanese hospitality.


Discover the charm of Minshuku Kuraya, where traditional Japanese hospitality meets serene nature in Yunomine, Wakayama.

The inn is popular among hikers and nature enthusiasts, serving as a perfect base for exploring the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. Though I didn't stay there, it sounded like a wonderful place to unwind and recharge after a long day of hiking. They are known for their delicious home-cooked meals prepared with fresh, local ingredients, and the cozy common areas encourage socializing with fellow travelers.

Reflections on Sakai and Anticipation for Tomorrow

As I prepare for my final day in the Kumano region, I can’t help but feel a sense of accomplishment and gratitude. Today in Sakai was a wonderful interlude, offering a different perspective on Japanese culture and history. The gardens, museums, and culinary experiences provided a perfect balance of relaxation and exploration. It reminded me of why I love solo travel – the freedom to explore at my own pace, discover hidden gems, and connect with local communities.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Observatory Lobby at Sakai City Hall for panoramic views of the city [If tomorrow is last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. I also intend to revisit Daisen Park to see the parts I missed today [If tomorrow is last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. For breakfast, I’m looking forward to trying KUMANOYASAI CAFE, and for lunch, I plan to visit Yorozuya Eatery [If tomorrow is last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. In the evening, I hope to have a memorable farewell dinner at Kumagoro [If tomorrow is last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. Before heading back to Lyon, I'll pick up some souvenirs at the Kumano Kodo Information Center [If tomorrow is last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. It’s going to be a bittersweet day, but I’m determined to make the most of it.

This solo pilgrimage has been an incredible journey of self-discovery, cultural immersion, and spiritual reflection. I’m excited to see what tomorrow brings, but for now, I’m content to savor the memories of today and the experiences that have shaped my Kumano Kodo adventure. I feel so grateful for this opportunity to explore Japan's sacred trails and discover its hidden gems. The blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and culinary delights has been truly transformative, and I know that the memories I've made here will stay with me for a lifetime.