Cultural Exploration on Shikoku Island: A Solo Adventure

Finding Serenity in Shikoku's Sacred Spaces

Today was a day of quiet reflection and spiritual exploration as I continued my journey through Shikoku. The island's blend of natural beauty and deep-rooted traditions continues to captivate me, offering a sense of peace that I rarely find amidst the hustle of daily life back in Brampton. It's days like these that remind me why I embarked on this solo adventure in the first place, to reconnect with myself and the world around me.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Joyfull Kochi Otsu Shop. It's a family restaurant, and from what I could tell, a local favorite. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set. The grilled fish, rice, and miso soup were simple but satisfying, reminding me of the comforting meals Moses and I would share on quiet mornings before he headed out for a long drive. It was the perfect start to a day dedicated to visiting temples and soaking in the spiritual atmosphere of Shikoku.

Umpenji Temple: A Journey to the Clouds

My first stop was Umpenji Temple. Reaching it felt like ascending into another world. The temple is located high in the mountains, near the border between Tokushima and Kagawa prefectures. The views on the way up were breathtaking, with lush greenery stretching as far as the eye could see. I chose to take the ropeway, which I learned is the fastest in Japan. As someone who appreciates a good view without the strenuous hike, this was the perfect option for me. I'm sure Moses would have preferred the hike, ever the outdoorsman, but I made the right choice for myself.


Discover Umpenji Temple, a serene Buddhist sanctuary in Tokushima, perfect for spiritual reflection and cultural immersion on your Shikoku journey.
The air was noticeably cooler at the top, a welcome change from the summer heat. Umpenji Temple itself is steeped in history, founded by Kobo Daishi, the revered monk who established the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Walking around the temple grounds, I felt a sense of reverence and tranquility. The temple has a history of 1,200 years, and its principal image is the Senju Kannon Bosatsu. The intricate wooden structures, the scent of incense, and the gentle chanting of monks created an atmosphere of profound peace.

I explored the temple grounds, taking in the panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea. The temple is known as the Koya of Shikoku, a place where monks in the past could study the landscape from a high panoramic point of view. The most striking sight was the five hundred Arhat statues, each with a unique expression. I spent some time wandering among them, contemplating the faces and the stories they seemed to tell. It was a powerful reminder of the diversity and complexity of human experience, something I often reflect on in my work with immigrant families in Brampton.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

Dainichi Temple: A Sanctuary of Serenity

After Umpenji, I traveled to Dainichi Temple. This temple, unlike Umpenji, is located on flat land. Dainichi Temple is the 28th temple on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. According to legend, the temple was founded by the priest Gyoki in the 8th century. The main hall was recently rebuilt in 1997 using traditional techniques. I learned that Dainichi translates to 'Great Sun', which refers to the most supreme Buddha in the esoteric sects of Buddhism.


Discover the tranquil beauty and rich cultural heritage of Dainichi Temple, a serene Buddhist sanctuary in Konan, Kochi.
As I approached, I was struck by the peaceful atmosphere. The temple grounds were meticulously maintained, with carefully manicured gardens and ancient trees providing shade. I took my time wandering through the grounds, admiring the traditional architecture and the serene beauty of the surroundings.

Dainichi Temple is known for its beautiful seasonal flowers. Although it's August, there were still plenty of flowers to admire. The main hall, rebuilt in 1997 using traditional techniques, was particularly impressive. I spent some time in quiet contemplation, reflecting on the teachings of Buddhism and the importance of compassion and mindfulness.

According to local legend, Kobo Daishi carved a statue of Yakushi Nyorai from a tree using only his fingernails. The temple is now known as a sacred place that can cure illnesses of the upper body.

Before leaving, I visited the temple shop, where I purchased a small Omamori (a Japanese amulet) for Hope. I know she's busy with her career, but I always want her to know that I'm thinking of her and sending her my love.

A Taste of Kochi: Lunch at Tataki Kobo

For lunch, I decided to try Tataki Kobo, a restaurant known for its local cuisine. The restaurant had a warm and inviting atmosphere, and the staff were incredibly friendly. I ordered their specialty, Katsuo Tataki (seared bonito). The fish was incredibly fresh, and the searing process gave it a unique and delicious flavor. It was served with a variety of local condiments, allowing me to customize each bite to my liking.


Discover authentic flavors at Tataki Kobo in Kochi—a must-visit Japanese regional restaurant showcasing local culinary delights.
As I savored the meal, I thought about how food can be such a powerful way to connect with a culture. Each dish tells a story, reflecting the history, traditions, and values of the people who created it. It reminded me of the importance of preserving our own Ugandan culinary heritage and sharing it with others in Canada. I must remember to call Hope and share this with her. She will be delighted.

Shopping for Souvenirs: Shikoku Shop 88

In the afternoon, I stopped by Shikoku Shop 88 to pick up some souvenirs. This shop offers a wide range of local products from all four prefectures of Shikoku. I found a beautiful set of handcrafted ceramics for Moses, knowing he would appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship. I also picked up some local sweets for my neighbors back in Brampton, wanting to share a taste of my adventure with them.


Explore Shikoku Shop 88 for unique souvenirs and local delicacies that embody the spirit of Takamatsu and the Shikoku region.
Shikoku Shop 88 also provides detailed maps, information on all 88 temples, and tips on pilgrimage equipment and temple etiquette. I was able to purchase a few more items for my pilgrimage.

As I browsed the shelves, I was struck by the diversity of products and the pride that the shopkeepers took in showcasing local talent. It was a reminder of the importance of supporting local businesses and preserving traditional crafts.

Dinner and Reflection at Osusowake Shokudo Mado

For dinner, I chose Osusowake Shokudo Mado. The name Osusowake means sharing something with others, and this restaurant truly embodies that spirit. The owner, Ms. Chimi Suyama, has created a space where people can connect, share a meal, and support one another.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Osusowake Shokudo Mado in Kami, Kochi - where tradition meets flavor in every dish.
The menu changes daily, depending on what vegetables Ms. Suyama receives from local farmers. This commitment to fresh, local ingredients was evident in every dish. I enjoyed a simple but delicious meal of rice, miso soup, and seasonal vegetables.

What truly made the experience special was the sense of community. I sat at a table with a group of locals, sharing stories and laughter. It reminded me of the spirit of Ubuntu, the African philosophy of interconnectedness, the belief that I am because we are. It was a powerful reminder that no matter where we come from, we all share a common humanity and a need for connection.

Osusowake Shokudo Mado is considered an original cafeteria because it plays many roles. One role is Kodomo Shokudo, a place where children can have meals cheaply. This helps support both the children and their parents.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, I reflected on the day's experiences. The temples, the food, the people – all had contributed to a deeper understanding of Shikoku and its unique culture. I felt grateful for the opportunity to explore this beautiful island and to connect with its people on such a personal level.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Heike Yashiki Museum of Folklore and Ōboke Gorge. I'm looking forward to learning more about the local history and experiencing the natural beauty of the region. I am also planning to stop by Bar Salvador for a drink.

For now, I'm content to savor the memories of today and to look forward to whatever adventures tomorrow may bring. As I prepare for another day of exploration, I am reminded of a quote I once read:

“Travel is more than seeing sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.”

Goodnight from Kochi Prefecture. I look forward to sharing more of my journey with you tomorrow.