Family Adventure in Iceland's Myvatn Region

Day 5: Exploring the Dark Castles and Hidden Hot Springs of Myvatn

Discover the geothermal wonders of Myvatn: from the mystical lava fields of Dimmuborgir to the hidden beauty of Stóragjá. A day of Icelandic exploration.

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A Day of Fire and Ice


Today was a day of stark contrasts and incredible beauty, a true testament to Iceland's dramatic landscapes. Leaving behind the cozy familiarity of our guesthouse, we ventured into the heart of the Mývatn region, ready to explore the volcanic wonders and hidden gems that this area is so famous for. The air was crisp, a typical Icelandic spring day, with a hint of geothermal warmth promising the adventures that lay ahead.

Our first stop was Stóragjá, a place I'd read about but hadn't fully grasped the magic of until I stood before it. From the parking area, it was a short walk to a narrow ravine, a scar in the earth that held a secret world below. Carefully, we made our way down the metal stairs, the air growing noticeably warmer as we descended. Astrid, always eager for adventure, held tightly to Maximilian's hand, her eyes wide with curiosity. At the bottom, the sight was breathtaking: a small, crystal-clear pool of geothermal water nestled within the rocky walls. The sunlight filtering through the opening above cast an ethereal blue glow on the water, making it look almost otherworldly.

Experience the serene beauty of Stóragjá, Iceland's hidden hot spring, amidst breathtaking landscapes and geological wonders.
Experience the serene beauty of Stóragjá, Iceland's hidden hot spring, amidst breathtaking landscapes and geological wonders.
The entrance to the grotto was indeed tricky, requiring a bit of clambering with the aid of ropes and a somewhat precarious ladder. While the idea of a swim was tempting, we heeded the warnings about the water's high bacteria levels and potentially dangerous algae. Instead, we contented ourselves with exploring the nooks and crannies of the cave, marveling at the interplay of light and shadow on the water's surface. Astrid was particularly fascinated by the small crevices and formations, imagining them as tiny homes for elves and hidden folk.

To witness the raw, untamed beauty of Iceland is to understand the power and fragility of our planet.


After Stóragjá, we drove towards Dimmuborgir, the 'Dark Castles,' a landscape that feels ripped from the pages of a Nordic saga. Before diving into Dimmuborgir, we stopped at Kaffi Borgir for a much-needed breakfast. This charming café, located right at the entrance to the lava formations, offered stunning views of both Dimmuborgir and Lake Mývatn. I opted for the soup buffet, a comforting choice with three different soups to sample. Maximilian chose a hearty sandwich, while Astrid enjoyed a pastry from the cooler. Fully fueled, we were ready to explore the lava field.

Discover the stunning lava fields of Dimmuborgir in Iceland, a unique hiking area filled with breathtaking landscapes and rich folklore.
Discover the stunning lava fields of Dimmuborgir in Iceland, a unique hiking area filled with breathtaking landscapes and rich folklore.
Discover delicious homemade meals and unique souvenirs at Kaffi Borgir, set against the stunning backdrop of Dimmuborgir's lava formations.
Discover delicious homemade meals and unique souvenirs at Kaffi Borgir, set against the stunning backdrop of Dimmuborgir's lava formations.
Dimmuborgir is unlike anything I've ever seen. The towering rock formations, twisted and contorted into bizarre shapes, create a labyrinthine landscape that sparks the imagination. It’s easy to see why this place is associated with folklore and legends; it truly feels like stepping into another world. We chose one of the marked trails and began our walk, the dark, imposing structures looming over us. Astrid was captivated by the idea of trolls and hidden creatures lurking among the rocks, a notion fueled by the many tales associated with this place.

We explored the various paths, each offering a unique perspective on the surreal landscape. The 'Church' formation, Kirkjan, was particularly impressive, a natural rock archway resembling a Gothic cathedral. I could only imagine what it must be like to explore the caves and chambers beneath the formations. The scale of the place is humbling, a reminder of the immense forces that shaped this island.

Leaving Dimmuborgir, our stomachs began to rumble again, signaling lunchtime. We headed to Vogafjós Farm Resort, a place I was particularly excited about. The concept of a 'farm-to-table' restaurant is something I deeply appreciate, and Vogafjós takes it to another level by integrating the dining experience with the farm itself. As we walked in, the aroma of fresh cheese and baking bread filled the air. We were seated at a table with a view of the cowshed, where we could watch the cows being milked. Astrid was absolutely thrilled, her nose pressed against the glass as she observed the gentle giants.

Experience authentic Icelandic hospitality at Vogafjós Farm Resort with fresh farm-to-table cuisine near beautiful Lake Mývatn.
Experience authentic Icelandic hospitality at Vogafjós Farm Resort with fresh farm-to-table cuisine near beautiful Lake Mývatn.
For lunch, I chose the Vogafjós special, a platter featuring their own mozzarella, raw smoked lamb, smoked arctic char, and Geysir bread. Maximilian opted for the lamb fillet, while Astrid, predictably, went for a simple but delicious grilled cheese sandwich. The food was exceptional, each ingredient bursting with flavor and freshness. Knowing that the ingredients were sourced directly from the farm made the meal even more satisfying. After lunch, we visited the cowshed, where Astrid got to pet the calves and even try some fresh milk – an experience she declared was the highlight of her day.

Before dinner, we stopped by the Handicrafts Market in Reykjahlíð. I was hoping to find a traditional Icelandic wool sweater, a cozy reminder of our trip. The market had a lovely selection of handmade crafts, from woolen goods to ceramics and locally sourced skincare products. I finally settled on a beautiful, hand-knitted sweater with a traditional Norwegian pattern, a nod to my own heritage. It was a bit of a splurge, but I knew it would be a treasured keepsake.

Explore the Handicrafts Market in Reykjahlíð for authentic Icelandic sweaters and unique artisanal crafts, perfect for memorable souvenirs.
Explore the Handicrafts Market in Reykjahlíð for authentic Icelandic sweaters and unique artisanal crafts, perfect for memorable souvenirs.
As evening approached, we made our way to Eldey Restaurant at Hótel Laxá for dinner. The restaurant is known for its focus on local Icelandic ingredients, and I was eager to sample their culinary creations. The ambiance was warm and inviting, with stunning views of Lake Mývatn through the large windows. For appetizers, we shared the saltfish croquettes and the smoked trout, both exquisitely prepared and bursting with flavor. For our main courses, Maximilian chose the beef tenderloin, while I opted for the blue ling, a local white fish served with thyme and garlic potato foam. Astrid, of course, chose the lobster pasta, which she devoured with gusto. The meal was a perfect ending to a day filled with exploration and adventure, a true celebration of Icelandic cuisine.

Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine at Eldey Restaurant in Mývatn, where local flavors meet breathtaking landscapes for an unforgettable dining adventure.
Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine at Eldey Restaurant in Mývatn, where local flavors meet breathtaking landscapes for an unforgettable dining adventure.
As we drove back to our guesthouse, the setting sun painted the sky in hues of orange and pink, casting a magical glow over the Mývatn landscape. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Námafjall Hverir viewpoint and the Myvatn Lookout, hoping for more breathtaking views. Perhaps we'll even venture to the Jaja Ding Dong bar in Húsavík for a nightcap. I'm already looking forward to another day of discovery in this extraordinary corner of Iceland.

Go to day 4 Chasing Icelandic Birds and Lakeside Serenity: A Day of Discovery in Myvatn
Go to day 6 Geothermal Wonders and Volcanic Vistas: A Day of Discovery in Myvatn
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Family Adventure in Iceland's Myvatn Region

Explore the volcanic wonders and geothermal beauty of Myvatn, Iceland, with family, blending cultural immersion and outdoor adventure.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Frida Kristiansen
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Freelance Translator
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 35

Hei, verden! I'm Frida Kristiansen, a Norwegian native living in the vibrant city of Berlin. As a freelance translator, I've always been fascinated by languages and cultures. My blog, Evendo, is where I share my passion for travel, sustainable living, and cultural immersion. Join me as I explore the world, one adventure at a time, with my wonderful family, Maximilian and Astrid, always by my side. I hope to inspire you to embrace the unknown and create your own unforgettable travel stories!

Interests:
  • Linguistics
  • Cultural Anthropology
  • Sustainable Living
  • Nordic Mythology
  • Modern Art
More about Frida Kristiansen

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  • Stóragjá

    Experience the serene beauty of Stóragjá, Iceland's hidden hot spring, amidst breathtaking landscapes and geological wonders.

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    Discover the stunning lava fields of Dimmuborgir in Iceland, a unique hiking area filled with breathtaking landscapes and rich folklore.

  • Kaffi Borgir

    Discover delicious homemade meals and unique souvenirs at Kaffi Borgir, set against the stunning backdrop of Dimmuborgir's lava formations.

  • Vogafjós Farm Resort

    Experience authentic Icelandic hospitality at Vogafjós Farm Resort with fresh farm-to-table cuisine near beautiful Lake Mývatn.

  • Eldey Restaurant

    Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine at Eldey Restaurant in Mývatn, where local flavors meet breathtaking landscapes for an unforgettable dining adventure.

  • Handicrafts Market

    Explore the Handicrafts Market in Reykjahlíð for authentic Icelandic sweaters and unique artisanal crafts, perfect for memorable souvenirs.

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