Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of Stone and Sea

Today was a symphony of contrasts, a journey from the hushed, cool embrace of a limestone cave to the rugged, windswept heights of a cliff overlooking the vast Pacific. It was a day where the earth spoke in different tongues, each telling a story of time, nature, and the enduring spirit of this ancient land. Lena and I felt like explorers, discovering hidden worlds and breathtaking vistas, all while continuing our pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Lena opted for a Western-style bagel with cream cheese. Fuelled up, we set off towards our first destination: Totsui Limestone Cave.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.
The drive to the cave was an adventure in itself, winding along narrow, twisting roads that snaked through lush green hills. I was glad I had brushed up on my driving skills before the trip! As we approached, the air grew cooler, carrying a hint of damp earth and ancient secrets. The entrance to Totsui Limestone Cave is quite unassuming; a small opening in the hillside. Descending into its depths felt like stepping back in time, leaving the bright, sunny day behind and entering a world of shadows and stone.

Inside, the cave was a wonderland of stalactites and stalagmites, formed over millions of years. The path wound through narrow passages, forcing us to duck and weave our way through the subterranean maze. The lighting was dim, but strategically placed to highlight the unique formations, casting eerie shadows that danced on the cave walls. Lena, ever the curious one, was fascinated by the textures and shapes, running her fingers gently over the cool, damp stone. I, on the other hand, was captivated by the silence, broken only by the occasional drip of water and the echo of our own footsteps. It was a truly immersive experience, a chance to connect with the earth on a primal level.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

Emerging from the cave, blinking in the sudden sunlight, we felt refreshed and invigorated. It was time for our next adventure: Onigajo Cliff.


Explore Onigajō Cliff in Kumano, Mie: A breathtaking scenic spot blending nature's beauty and rich biodiversity, perfect for tourists and adventurers.
The drive to Onigajo was scenic, following the coastline and offering glimpses of the sparkling sea. As we approached, the landscape became more dramatic, with rocky outcrops and windswept pines clinging to the cliffs. Onigajo Cliff, a National Natural Monument, is a sight to behold. The name translates to Demon's Castle, and it's easy to see why. The cliffs are rugged and imposing, shaped by centuries of wind and waves, creating a dramatic and otherworldly landscape.

We parked the car and began to explore the network of trails that crisscross the cliff top. The wind was strong, whipping our hair and carrying the scent of salt and sea. The views were simply stunning. To one side, the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean stretched out to the horizon, a shimmering blue canvas dotted with distant islands. To the other, the rugged coastline unfolded, with hidden coves and rocky beaches beckoning us to explore.

We walked along the cliff edge, pausing to admire the unique rock formations and the crashing waves below. The power of nature was palpable here, a reminder of the forces that have shaped this land over millennia. Lena, always the photographer, was in her element, capturing the dramatic scenery from every angle. I simply stood and breathed, letting the wind and the waves wash over me, feeling a sense of awe and wonder.

After our exploration of Onigajo Cliff, we were ready for a late lunch. We stopped at Sansaro Cafe, a charming spot nestled in the hills.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.
The cafe had a rustic, welcoming atmosphere, with wooden tables and chairs and a menu featuring local specialties. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of fresh seafood and local vegetables, savoring the flavors of the region. The owner of the cafe, a friendly woman named Ms. Uzawa, shared stories of the area and its history, adding a personal touch to our experience.

As the sun began to dip towards the horizon, we made our way to Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.
This wasn't just any shop; it was a treasure trove of local crafts, produce, and souvenirs. I picked up a beautiful piece of pottery, while Lena found a unique hand-painted scarf. It was the perfect way to support the local community and take a little piece of Kumano Kodo home with us.

For dinner, we had made reservations at Kumagoro, a local restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.
After our meal, we took a leisurely stroll back to our accommodation, enjoying the peace and quiet of the evening. The stars were out in full force, and the air was filled with the chirping of crickets.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how diverse and captivating this region is. From the depths of the earth to the heights of the cliffs, every corner of Kumano Kodo has a story to tell. And tomorrow promises more adventure, as we plan to hike the Koyazaka Slope and explore the Kumano-Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route. We might even stop by Wine Kumano for a little nightcap, depending on how strenuous the hike is! I am looking forward to it!

Today was a reminder that the greatest journeys are not just about the destinations, but about the experiences along the way. And as we continue our pilgrimage, I am grateful for every moment, every sight, and every sound that this ancient land has to offer.