Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past, Footsteps in the Present

Today, Lena and I ventured deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo, a region where the veil between the earthly and spiritual realms seems incredibly thin. Our journey was a tapestry woven with threads of history, nature, and personal reflection. It was a day to immerse ourselves in the sacred atmosphere of Kumano Nachi, to listen to the echoes of pilgrims past, and to find our own moments of peace amidst the ancient trees and hallowed grounds.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. The quaint eatery was bustling with fellow travelers, all eager to start their day exploring the Kumano Kodo. I savored a traditional *teishoku* meal, the flavors grounding me for the day's adventures. Lena enjoyed a simpler fare of grilled fish and rice, which she found both delicious and energizing. This was a perfect way to fuel up before setting off to explore the treasures of Kumano Nachi.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

After breakfast, we made our way towards Kumano Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. The hall is located within the main courtyard, and it beckoned with the promise of artifacts that whisper tales of centuries past. Inside, we were greeted by an array of historical and religious items that offered a glimpse into the heart of the Kumano faith. The *Nachisan Shrine Mandala*, a vibrant and intricate graphic representation of the shrine, captured my attention. Lena was fascinated by the collection of chronicles and manuscripts, each one a testament to the enduring legacy of Kumano.


Explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall, a historical gem showcasing Japan's Shinto heritage and breathtaking natural beauty.

The journey through Kumano Nachi is a reminder that some paths are timeless, connecting us to the hopes and dreams of those who walked them centuries ago.

Leaving the Treasure Hall, we stepped into the serene embrace of Kumano Kodo Park. The park, a sanctuary of towering trees and moss-covered stones, invited us to slow down and breathe. As a sound engineer, I found myself particularly attuned to the subtle symphony of the forest – the rustling of leaves, the gentle murmur of a nearby stream, the distant call of a bird. Lena, with her teacher's heart, was captivated by the intricate patterns of the ferns and the dappled sunlight filtering through the canopy.


Explore the tranquil beauty of Kumano Kodo Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site rich in nature and spirituality in Wakayama, Japan.

We paused for lunch at Kakinoate, a charming restaurant known for its *kakinoha-zushi* (persimmon leaf sushi). The sushi, wrapped in fragrant persimmon leaves, was a delightful culinary experience, and the perfect fuel for our afternoon explorations. Lena particularly enjoyed the mackerel sushi, while I favored the salmon. The subtle sweetness of the rice and the delicate flavor of the fish were a testament to the region's culinary heritage.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

After lunch, we visited the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, a treasure trove of local crafts and sweets. Lena, always on the lookout for unique souvenirs, found a beautiful hand-painted fan depicting the Nachi Falls. I, on the other hand, was drawn to the local *omiyage* (souvenirs), eventually settling on a set of intricately carved wooden figures depicting the three-legged crow, *Yatagarasu*, a symbol of Kumano and guidance.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

For dinner, we decided to try Akihei, a restaurant recommended for its authentic Japanese cuisine. The warm and inviting atmosphere made us feel instantly at home, and the menu was filled with tantalizing options. I opted for the *kushikatsu* (deep-fried skewers), a local specialty, while Lena chose the grilled fish, which was cooked to perfection. We ended our meal with a shared plate of homemade matcha ice cream, its subtle bitterness a perfect counterpoint to the richness of the savory dishes.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves reflecting on the profound sense of peace that had permeated our experiences. The Kumano Kodo, with its ancient trails and sacred sites, had offered us a space for contemplation and connection. It was a day of sensory immersion, from the taste of persimmon leaf sushi to the scent of cedar trees in Kumano Kodo Park. It also reminded me of the importance of preserving these experiences, whether through field recordings of the forest sounds or simply taking the time to be present in the moment. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a living testament to the enduring power of nature and the human spirit.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of the Kumano Kodo, specifically the Nakahechi Route, including the Chikatsuyu-Oji to Kobiro-Oji Section and the Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. We're also hoping to visit Wine Kumano for a relaxing evening. I'm looking forward to capturing more of the sounds and stories of this remarkable region, and to sharing them with you all. I am also excited to see what Lena discovers and how she will relay the experiences to her kindergarteners.

For now, *yasasiku*, from the serene trails of Kumano Kodo.