Solo Soundscapes in Serra da Lousã

Echoes of the Past, Whispers of the Present

Today marked the beginning of my solo adventure in Serra da Lousã, a region I’ve long dreamt of exploring. As a sound engineer, the allure of its pristine soundscapes, combined with its rich history and tranquil beauty, was simply irresistible. Leaving Potsdam behind, I was eager to immerse myself in the sounds and sights of this hidden Portuguese gem, ready to capture its unique acoustic essence.

The journey from Berlin to Lisbon was smooth, and the drive to Serra da Lousã in my rented car was nothing short of picturesque. The landscape gradually transformed from bustling cityscapes to rolling hills dotted with charming villages, each turn revealing a new vista more captivating than the last. Arriving in Lousã, I felt an immediate sense of calm, a stark contrast to the urban soundscapes I am so used to. The air was fresh, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth, a symphony of natural aromas that promised a sensory feast.

My first stop was the Castle of Lousã. Perched on a hill overlooking the valley, the castle, also known as the Castle of Arouce, exuded a palpable sense of history. Built in the 11th century, it served as a crucial defensive structure during the early days of Portugal. As I walked through its ancient stone walls, I imagined the soldiers who once stood guard, their voices echoing through the battlements. The panoramic views from the tower were breathtaking, encompassing the sprawling landscape of Serra da Lousã. I spent a good hour recording the ambient sounds – the wind whistling through the arrow slits, the distant bleating of sheep, the rustling of leaves in the nearby forest. Each sound told a story, a fragment of the castle's long and storied past.


Discover the rich history and breathtaking views at the Castle of Lousã, a stunning medieval fortress nestled in Portugal's scenic landscape.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the quietest corners of the world.

Legend has it that the castle was built by the emir Arunce to protect his daughter, Peralta, and his treasures after being defeated in Conimbriga. The story speaks of love, betrayal, and a princess left alone in the castle. Whether true or not, the legend adds a layer of mystique to the already enchanting site. The castle has been classified as a National Monument since 1910 and is part of the Network of Castles and Walls of the Mondego. It is one of the oldest castles in the country.

From the castle, I made my way to the Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Piedade, a sanctuary nestled on a hilltop offering stunning views of the valley. The series of chapels exude a sense of peace and contemplation. The main chapel, with its intricate Rococo altarpiece, was particularly striking. I recorded the soft murmur of prayers, the gentle chime of the bells, and the distant sounds of nature, creating a serene soundscape that reflected the sanctuary's spiritual ambiance. According to the records of the Military Order of Santiago, the chapel was built in 1553. Over the centuries, it has become an important pilgrimage site, with devotees flocking to honor Our Lady. The most significant event is the annual celebration after Easter, known as the “Sovereign Mother,” which attracts large crowds.


Discover the serene beauty and spiritual essence of Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Piedade in Lousã, a must-visit for every traveler.

After a morning steeped in history and spirituality, I was ready for a hearty lunch. I headed to Taberna/Restaurante do Talasnal, a restaurant known for its traditional Portuguese cuisine. The drive to Talasnal was an experience in itself, winding through narrow, cobblestone streets lined with schist houses. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a rustic charm that perfectly complemented the surrounding village. I decided to try the *chanfana*, a local specialty of goat stew marinated in red wine. The dish was rich, flavorful, and incredibly satisfying, a true taste of the region. As I savored each bite, I watched locals and tourists alike enjoying their meals, their laughter and conversations filling the air with a sense of community.


Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Taberna/Restaurante do Talasnal in Lousã - where tradition meets taste.

Before lunch, I started my day with breakfast at Casa Velha, a local favorite known for its traditional Portuguese dishes. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and the food was simple but delicious. I enjoyed a strong coffee and a *pastel de nata*, a classic Portuguese custard tart, while planning my day ahead. Casa Velha prides itself on offering a welcoming atmosphere and has been serving customers for over 35 years. The restaurant boasts an impressive wine cellar with nearly 400 references from across Portugal and the world.


Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Casa Velha in Lousã – where local flavors meet warm hospitality.

In the late afternoon, I visited Cerdeira - Home for Creativity, a unique space that combines art, nature, and community. Nestled in the Serra da Lousã, Cerdeira is a restored schist village that now houses an arts and crafts school, offering workshops and residencies for artists from around the world. I was immediately captivated by the village's charm, its traditional houses blending seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. I spent several hours exploring the studios, talking to the artists, and recording the sounds of their creative processes – the gentle tapping of hammers, the whirring of pottery wheels, the soft brushstrokes on canvas. It was inspiring to witness the fusion of art and nature, the way the village fostered a sense of community and collaboration. Cerdeira is hidden in a small valley, 700m above sea level. It was once at risk of disappearing after agricultural activity was abandoned in the mid-20th century.


Discover the inspiring Cerdeira - Home for Creativity, where nature meets artistic expression in the heart of Lousã.

For dinner, I chose O Burgo, a restaurant set in an old water mill overlooking the natural swimming pools of Sra da Piedade. The setting was idyllic, the sound of the flowing water creating a soothing backdrop to the meal. I opted for another local specialty, roast veal with chestnuts, a hearty and flavorful dish that perfectly captured the essence of mountain cuisine. The restaurant is known for its authentic Portuguese cuisine and stunning landscapes.


Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at O Burgo in Lousã—where tradition meets taste amidst stunning landscapes.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself reflecting on the incredible experiences I had. Serra da Lousã had already exceeded my expectations, offering a blend of history, nature, and culture that was both enriching and inspiring. The sounds I had captured throughout the day – the wind in the castle, the prayers in the sanctuary, the laughter in the restaurants, the creative hum in Cerdeira – formed a unique soundscape that I knew would become an integral part of my artistic project. I am without Lena, but I know she would have loved this. I missed her laughter.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the schist villages of Talasnal, Vaqueirinho, and Candal, each with its own unique charm and character. I am also looking forward to enjoying a meal at Ti Lena and Maria Das Tapas, and perhaps even visiting the Almas Perdidas Bar for a nightcap. As I drifted off to sleep, I felt a sense of anticipation for the adventures that lay ahead, eager to continue my solo journey through the soundscapes of Serra da Lousã. I made a mental note to buy a rain jacket, since the weather in the mountains can be unpredictable. I should have checked the forecast more carefully before packing.

There is a celebration of the smokeless Kiln in Cerdeira between August 26-31, which will include exhibitions and live music. I might need to come back!

The day's weather was mostly cloudy, with a temperature of 50°F (10°C) and 84% humidity. May in Lousã typically sees high temperatures around 74°F (22°3°C) and low temperatures around 51.6°F (10.9°C).

It is worth noting that there is an event called AXTrail Series taking place in Góis on June 15, 2025.