Solo Expedition to Vatnajökull: An Icelandic Adventure

Guardians of Ice and Highland Dreams

Today was a day of epic proportions, the kind that etches itself into your memory and makes you realise why you travel in the first place. I ventured deep into the heart of Vatnajökull National Park, a landscape sculpted by ice and fire, and discovered the raw, untamed beauty of the Icelandic Highlands. It was a day of glacial hikes, rugged nature reserves, and a wee dram of whiskey to cap it all off.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Glacier Goodies. I opted for their take on a full breakfast, fuelling up with eggs, bacon, and a strong cup of coffee. It was exactly what I needed before heading out to meet my guides from Ice Guardians Iceland. I'd heard great things about them, and I was eager to see Vatnajökull glacier up close. I made a mental note to grab a portable charger when I got back to Kelowna, remembering how many times Olivia had to remind me to charge my devices before a trip. The missus is always right, especially when it comes to travel prep!

The drive to the glacier was stunning, a landscape of black sand plains and distant, snow-capped peaks. Upon arrival, I met Kish, my guide for the day. Kish was a font of knowledge, not just about the glacier itself, but also about the geology and history of Iceland. He was also incredibly passionate about safety, which, as a bloke who's had his fair share of scrapes (that crooked nose isn't just for show!), I appreciated immensely. He explained the procedures as we traversed across the ice, involving us, as we were comfortable. Ice Guardians differentiate themselves by providing personalized experiences, away from the large groups of other tour operators. I was provided with all the necessary gear: helmet, harness, crampons, and an ice axe. Suited and booted, I felt like a proper explorer, ready to tackle the glacial wilderness.

Stepping onto the ice was like entering another world. The sheer scale of Vatnajökull is hard to comprehend until you're standing on it, surrounded by a seemingly endless expanse of blue ice, crevasses, and towering ice formations. Kish led me through a maze of ice sculptures, explaining how the glacier is formed and how it's constantly changing. He pointed out hidden ice caves, their entrances glowing with an ethereal blue light. I even got to try my hand at some basic ice climbing, which, I must admit, was a bit more challenging than I anticipated, but exhilarating nonetheless. I felt like a kid again, clambering over rocks and exploring hidden corners.

The earth has music for those who listen.

After a few hours on the glacier, I was ready for a break. I made my way to the viewpoint over Jökulsárlón for a spot of lunch. I munched on a sandwich as I watched icebergs float serenely towards the sea. Seals basked in the sun, occasionally slipping into the water to chase fish. It was a mesmerising scene, a perfect blend of tranquility and raw power. I spent a good hour there, simply soaking it all in and snapping photos to show Olivia and Ethan. I knew they'd both be captivated by the sheer beauty of this place.


Discover breathtaking views at Jökulsárlón Viewpoint, where majestic icebergs float serenely in stunning glacial waters surrounded by Icelandic landscapes.

With renewed energy, I set off for Fjallabak Nature Reserve. The drive there was an adventure in itself, traversing gravel roads and crossing rivers. I was glad I'd opted for a 4x4; it was definitely needed to navigate this rugged terrain. Fjallabak, which translates to Mountain Back, is a highland paradise of colourful rhyolite mountains, black obsidian lava fields, and steaming hot springs. The landscape was unlike anything I'd ever seen, a vibrant tapestry of greens, reds, yellows, and blacks.


Explore the enchanting Fjallabak Nature Reserve, where vibrant landscapes and geothermal wonders await in Iceland's breathtaking wilderness.

I spent the afternoon hiking through the reserve, following one of the many trails that wind through the mountains and valleys. The trails here are known for suiting everyone, and some of them are marked on the nature reserve brochure map. I chose a moderate loop that took me past bubbling mud pools and steaming vents. The air was thick with the smell of sulphur, a constant reminder of the volcanic activity that shaped this landscape. I reached a high point on the trail and was rewarded with panoramic views of the entire reserve. It was breathtaking, a scene of such raw, untamed beauty that it almost brought a tear to my eye.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to the charming town of Vík í Mýrdal, where I had a reservation at Bjargarsteinn Mathús. This restaurant is known for its fresh, local ingredients and traditional Icelandic cuisine. I started with the seafood soup, a creamy, flavourful concoction that warmed me from the inside out. For my main course, I opted for the lamb fillet, cooked to perfection and served with roasted vegetables. It was a truly memorable meal, a perfect way to end a day of exploration.


Discover Bjargarsteinn Mathús: A culinary gem in Grundarfjörður serving traditional Icelandic dishes with breathtaking views.

To cap off the evening, I decided to visit Dillon Whiskey Bar in Reykjavík, a place I'd heard whispers about from fellow travellers. Tucked away on the second floor of an old wooden building, Dillon is a haven for whiskey lovers. The bar boasts an impressive selection of over 170 different whiskies, from classic Scotch to rare Japanese blends. The bartender, a friendly chap with a neatly trimmed beard, clearly knew his stuff. I ordered a glass of Flóki, an Icelandic single malt, and settled into a comfortable armchair. The bar was buzzing with a mix of locals and tourists, all sharing stories and enjoying the convivial atmosphere.


Dillon Whiskey Bar: A vibrant bar in Reykjavík offering whiskey tastings, karaoke, and live music for an unforgettable night out.

The bartender was friendly and the bar had a no-nonsense type of place. I did have a great conversation and learned a lot about the city...places to go/avoid. It's reasonably priced compared to it's competition. I had a great time chatting with locals and fellow travellers, swapping stories and sharing travel tips. It was the perfect way to unwind after a long day of exploring. As I sipped my whiskey, I reflected on the day's adventures. From the glacial giants of Vatnajökull to the highland wonders of Fjallabak, it had been a day of unforgettable experiences. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness such incredible landscapes and to connect with the raw, untamed beauty of Iceland.

Tomorrow, I'm planning on exploring the waterfalls of the south, including Systrafoss and Stjórnarfoss. I also intend to visit Kaffi Sel and Mývatn öl brewery, a local shop that I hope will have a few local brews to take back home to Kelowna. It's a shame Olivia and Ethan aren't here to experience this with me, but I know they're cheering me on from afar. And who knows, maybe one day I'll be able to bring them back to this magical island and share the wonders of Iceland with the people I love most.

Until then, Skál!