Solo Expedition to Vatnajökull: An Icelandic Adventure

Chasing Glaciers and Waterfalls

Today was all about immersing myself in the raw beauty of Vatnajökull National Park. It was a day filled with icy vistas, dramatic landscapes, and the kind of quiet contemplation that only nature can inspire. I set out early, eager to experience everything this corner of Iceland had to offer, and I wasn't disappointed.

My day began with breakfast at the Hotel Restaurant Vatnajökull. Nothing fancy, just a solid start with some eggs and toast to fuel up for the adventures ahead. It’s amazing how much heartier your appetite gets when you know you’ll be spending the day hiking and exploring. I made a mental note to try and recreate their scrambled eggs when I get back to Kelowna for Olivia; she's always on the lookout for new breakfast ideas.

The first stop was Fjallsárlón, a glacier lagoon that’s often overshadowed by its more famous neighbor, Jökulsárlón. Honestly, I was drawn to its promise of fewer crowds and a more intimate experience. And it delivered. The weather forecast predicted partly cloudy skies, with temperatures hovering around 45°F (7°C), which is pretty typical for June in this region. I was prepared with my layers, waterproof jacket, and trusty hiking boots.

As I approached Fjallsárlón, the sight of icebergs floating serenely on the water was breathtaking. The lagoon is smaller than Jökulsárlón, which meant I could get closer to the glacier snout. I decided to take a boat tour to truly appreciate the scale of the icebergs and the glacier itself. I opted for the classic boat tour. Bundled up in a provided waterproof overall and life jacket, I hopped aboard a Zodiac boat with a small group of fellow travelers. The guide was fantastic, sharing insights about the glacier's formation and the lagoon's ecosystem. Apparently, Fjallsárlón offers better views of the glacier snout because it's smaller, allowing for a more intimate experience. The guide mentioned that the lagoon is about five times smaller than Jökulsárlón. We cruised among the icebergs, each one a unique sculpture crafted by nature. The silence, punctuated only by the gentle lapping of water against the ice, was profound. I snapped photo after photo, trying to capture the ethereal beauty of the scene. I even managed to get a shot of a seal lounging on an iceberg, which was a definite highlight.


Explore the stunning Fjallsárlón Glacier Lagoon, where icebergs meet pristine waters in a breathtaking Icelandic landscape.

The glacier's silent majesty whispers tales of ancient ice and the enduring power of nature.

After the boat tour, I grabbed a quick lunch at Glacier Goodies. It's a small fast-food joint near the Skaftafell Visitor Center. I had a burger and fries, nothing fancy, but it hit the spot. The place was bustling with hikers and tourists, all refueling before or after their adventures. They were open from 11:30 AM to 4:00 PM, which was perfect for a midday meal.

With my stomach satisfied, I headed towards the Svartifoss Trail. I was eager to see the famous waterfall framed by basalt columns. The trail starts near the Skaftafell Visitor Centre, and I made a quick stop there to pick up a map and get some trail information. The visitor center was informative, providing details about the park's history, geology, and hiking trails. I even picked up a small souvenir for Ethan – a postcard of Svartifoss. He’s been getting into photography lately, and I thought he’d appreciate it.

The hike to Svartifoss is described as easy to moderate, about 1.5 kilometers each way with an elevation gain of around 150 meters. The weather was holding up nicely, mostly cloudy with occasional glimpses of sun. The trail took me through a lush, green landscape, passing by other waterfalls like Þjófafoss, Hundafoss, and Magnúsarfoss. Each one was beautiful in its own right, but I was focused on reaching Svartifoss.

The uphill climb was a bit challenging, but the views along the way were worth it. I could see the vast plains stretching out towards the coast, with glimpses of glaciers in the distance. The trail was well-maintained and easy to follow, winding through birch forests and across small streams. About halfway to Svartifoss, there were some informational plaques detailing the local flora and fauna. It’s amazing how much life thrives in this seemingly harsh environment.

As I rounded a bend in the trail, I finally caught sight of Svartifoss. The basalt columns framing the waterfall were truly striking. The water cascaded down from about 20 meters, creating a mesmerizing scene. I found a spot on the viewing platform and spent some time just soaking it all in. The basalt columns are what make this waterfall so unique, and I learned that they were actually the inspiration for the design of Hallgrímskirkja church in Reykjavík. I took several photos, trying to capture the perfect angle and lighting. The sun even peeked out from behind the clouds for a few moments, creating a beautiful rainbow at the base of the falls.


Explore the breathtaking Svartifoss Trail, where nature's beauty and unique geological formations create an unforgettable hiking adventure in Iceland.

The hike back down was much easier, and I made good time. By the time I reached the visitor center, my legs were definitely feeling it. I decided to treat myself to a local Icelandic beer at the visitor center shop. I figured it was a good way to celebrate a day of successful exploration. I also picked up a couple of extra bottles to try later.

For dinner, I headed to Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon, a restaurant known for its modern Icelandic cuisine. The drive there was scenic, with the sun beginning to set over the landscape. The restaurant itself was elegant, with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. I decided to try the Arctic char, a local specialty, and it was delicious. The flavors were fresh and subtle, perfectly complementing the stunning views. I paired it with a local craft beer, of course, and savored every bite.


Discover tranquility at Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon - your gateway to Iceland's stunning glaciers and breathtaking landscapes.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much I had packed in. From the serene beauty of Fjallsárlón to the dramatic basalt columns of Svartifoss, Vatnajökull National Park had truly captured my heart. As I drove back to my guesthouse, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience such incredible natural wonders.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to explore Skaftafell and Svínafellsjökull Glacier. I'm also hoping to check out Ölstofa, a local bar, for a taste of Icelandic nightlife. I've heard good things about their beer selection, so I'm looking forward to that. I'm also looking forward to sharing my experiences with Olivia when I get back to Kelowna. She's always eager to hear about my adventures, and I know she'll appreciate the photos and stories I bring back.

This solo trip is turning out to be exactly what I needed – a chance to reconnect with nature, challenge myself physically, and appreciate the simple beauty of the world around me. And, of course, to sample some amazing local brews. It’s a winning combination, if you ask me.

I am looking forward to the adventures that tomorrow will bring. I've heard that Skaftafell is a hiker's paradise, and I'm eager to explore its trails and see what other natural wonders I can discover. I will make sure I have my camera ready to capture the stunning landscapes and share them with you all.

I am also excited about the prospect of visiting Svínafellsjökull Glacier. I've seen photos of its blue ice and deep crevasses, and I can't wait to experience it firsthand. I'm hoping to get a chance to hike on the glacier, but I'll need to check with the local guides to see if it's safe and feasible.

And, of course, I am looking forward to checking out Ölstofa, the local bar. I've heard that they have a great selection of Icelandic beers, and I'm eager to try some new brews. I am also hoping to meet some locals and learn more about their culture and way of life.

As I drift off to sleep, I can't help but feel a sense of excitement and anticipation for what tomorrow will bring. Iceland has a way of captivating the soul, and I am grateful for the opportunity to experience its magic.

Until tomorrow, happy travels!