Solo Adventure in Yakushima: Exploring Japan's Natural Wonder

Enchanted by Yakushima's Mystical Trails

Today was a day of immersion, a deep dive into the heart of Yakushima's ancient forests. I've always found solace in nature, a sentiment Marie, my wife, shares deeply. But there's something uniquely captivating about this island, a sense of timelessness that resonates with my own work of restoring antique pieces – each holding a story, much like the ancient cedars of Yakushima.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at hiyoriya, a charming spot known for its organic and mostly vegetarian cuisine. Finding it was a bit of a treasure hunt itself, tucked away from the main road, resembling a regular home. The limited seating made it feel exclusive, almost as if I were being welcomed into a local’s home for a traditional meal. The set lunch was a delightful assortment of tempura veggies, tofu, miso, and various pickles – a perfect start to a day of hiking. It reminded me of Marie's meticulousness in preparing our meals back home, each ingredient carefully chosen and thoughtfully prepared. The flavors were so fresh and vibrant, a testament to Yakushima's natural bounty.

Fueled and ready, I set off for Shiratani Unsui Gorge. The drive itself was an experience, winding through mountain roads with glimpses of the Pacific Ocean. It’s a good thing I remembered to charge my camera last night, as the views were incredible. The entrance to the gorge is about a 20-30 minute drive from Miyanoura Port. As I drove, I was reminded of cycling through the Antwerp port, each turn revealing a new vista, a new story etched in the landscape.

The Shiratani Unsui Gorge is often credited as the key site of inspiration for Studio Ghibli's *Princess Mononoke*, and I could see why. The moss-covered forest felt like stepping into another world, a realm of spirits and ancient secrets. The air was thick with moisture, and the sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow. The trails were well-maintained, a mix of historic footpaths and stone-paved routes. I opted for a route that would take me to both the moss forest and Taiko-iwa (Drum Rock).


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

The hike was invigorating, a moderate challenge that allowed me to fully appreciate the surroundings. The sound of the Shiratani River accompanied me, its clear waters flowing over granite boulders. I passed ancient cedars, their gnarled roots reaching deep into the earth. The forest floor was a carpet of moss, a vibrant green that seemed to absorb all sound. It was easy to see why this place inspired Miyazaki Hayao.

The forest whispers secrets to those who listen, stories etched in the rings of ancient trees and the flow of crystal-clear streams.

Reaching Taiko-iwa, also known as Drum Rock, was the highlight of the day. The climb was steep in sections, but the panoramic view from the top was well worth the effort. From this vantage point, 1,050 meters above sea level, I could see the Oku-dake mountain range and the island’s tallest peak, Miyanoura-dake. The rock itself gets its name from the way it reverberates when struck, a natural drum echoing through the mountains. I took a moment to simply sit and absorb the stillness, the vastness of the landscape. I could have stayed there for hours, lost in contemplation.


Explore the breathtaking Taiko-iwa, a spectacular hiking destination in Yakushima, offering stunning views, rich biodiversity, and cultural significance.

The descent was quicker, and I made my way back to Miyanoura, the island's main hub. I decided to visit the Yakushima Market, hoping to find some local crafts and produce. It was a bustling place, filled with the energy of local vendors and the aroma of fresh food. I picked up some *ponkan* and *tankan* oranges, Yakushima’s famous citrus fruits, as a treat for later. I also found a small wooden carving of a *yakushika* deer, a unique species found only on Yakushima and Kuchino-erabu Island. It reminded me of the vintage toys I sometimes find during my antique restorations, each with its own story to tell.


Discover the vibrant Yakushima Market, where local crafts and fresh produce come together for an authentic shopping experience.

For lunch, I stopped at the Yakushima Gallery Restaurant. It was a pleasant space to relax and refuel after my morning hike. The restaurant seemed to focus on regional cuisine, offering a space where one can experience Yakushima through sight, taste, and feel.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

As evening approached, I made my way to Il Mare, an Italian restaurant near the airport. It might seem odd to seek out Italian food in Japan, but I was curious to see how they incorporated local ingredients into their dishes. The chef uses local and Italian ingredients to create mouth-watering dishes. I ordered a pizza with Yakushima venison sauce, a unique and delicious combination. The restaurant offered a gastronomical experience, while watching the sea and Tanegashima. It reminded me of the small Italian place near our home in Antwerp, where Marie and I often go for a simple yet satisfying meal.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Senpiro Falls and Ryujin Falls. I might also check out Ganta, a local bar. It’s always interesting to see how locals unwind and experience the nightlife. But for tonight, I’ll rest, reflect on the day’s adventures, and perhaps sketch a few of the ancient cedars I encountered. It’s moments like these, surrounded by nature and steeped in history, that make me feel truly alive. These are the stories I want to share, the experiences that resonate with others who seek beauty and connection in the world. Perhaps Thomas, my son, would enjoy this place. He's always been fascinated by history, just like Marie and I. Maybe one day I'll bring them both here, to walk among these ancient spirits and hear the whispers of the forest. I must remember to buy sunscreen at Yakushima Market tomorrow, as I forgot to pack it. Also, I'm hoping to find some postcards at the market to send to Marie and Thomas.

As I settle in for the night, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude for this solo journey. It’s a chance to reconnect with myself, to find inspiration in the natural world, and to return home with a renewed sense of purpose. And who knows, maybe I'll even find a new antique treasure to restore, a piece of history waiting to be brought back to life. I also hope there are no mosquitos in my room tonight!

There were no notable events today, but there’s always something happening in Yakushima, whether it’s a local festival or a community gathering. The island is full of life, a vibrant tapestry of nature and culture. I am looking forward to uncovering more of its secrets in the days to come.