Solo Journey Through Montenegro's Durmitor National Park

Whispers of the Ancients

Today was a day of venturing beyond the familiar vistas of Durmitor, a journey into the heart of Montenegro's historical and natural tapestry. It’s days like these that remind me why I started this blog – to share the hidden gems and untold stories of my homeland with all of you. It was a day of echoes, whispers of civilizations long past mingling with the rush of a vibrant canyon.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Krcma Nostalgija in Žabljak. The name itself, 'Nostalgia,' seemed fitting for the journey I was about to undertake. I savored the *prijesnac*, a local cheese pie, with a cup of strong Montenegrin coffee. It's a simple, comforting meal that always reminds me of my grandmother's kitchen in Kolašin. The restaurant was cozy, filled with the aroma of woodsmoke and grilling meat, a perfect start to a day of exploration. I made a mental note to bring Klaus here someday; he would love the rustic charm and the authentic flavors.


Experience authentic Montenegrin cuisine at Krcma Nostalgija in Žabljak - where tradition meets taste amidst breathtaking landscapes.
Fuelled and ready, I set off towards Podgorica, my heart set on discovering the ancient Illyrian city of Meteon, or what remains of it. The drive itself was a scenic prelude, the landscape unfolding like a tapestry of green valleys and rugged mountains. As I drove, I couldn’t help but think about the Illyrians, the ancient people who once thrived in this land. It’s humbling to realize that their stories are etched into the very stones beneath our feet.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

Arriving at Meteon, now known as Medun, I was immediately struck by the imposing fortifications. Perched atop a hill, the city commands a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. It’s easy to imagine how this strategic location served as a stronghold for the Illyrian tribe of Labeati. Walking through the ruins, I felt a tangible connection to the past. The well-preserved walls, constructed from massive blocks of hewn stone, spoke of a civilization that valued strength and resilience. I explored the necropolis, imagining the rituals and beliefs of those who lived and died here centuries ago. It was a poignant experience, a reminder of the ebb and flow of history.


Discover the enchanting Ancient Illyrian City of Meteon, where history and breathtaking landscapes come together in Montenegro's rich cultural tapestry.
From Meteon, I continued my journey towards the Cijevna Canyon, a natural wonder that rivals even the Tara Canyon in its beauty, though on a smaller scale. The Cijevna River, also known as *Cem* in Albanian, has carved a dramatic gorge through the limestone landscape, creating a haven for diverse flora and fauna. Reaching the canyon, I parked the car and ventured along the narrow road that winds its way through the gorge. The towering cliffs, painted in hues of red and ochre, rose majestically on either side, casting long shadows in the afternoon sun.


Explore the stunning Canyon Cijevna in Montenegro, a tranquil paradise for nature lovers and adventure seekers, offering breathtaking views and crystal-clear waters.
The air was filled with the scent of Mediterranean herbs and the sound of rushing water. I paused to admire the vibrant ecosystem, the sheer variety of plant species thriving in this unique environment. I learned that the canyon is home to over 800 plant species, a quarter of Montenegro's total flora, including many endemic species. The Cijevna Canyon was once the only habitat of vultures in Montenegro. It is also a significant breeding place for eagles, falcons and owls. I felt a deep sense of peace and tranquility here, a feeling of being immersed in the raw, untamed beauty of nature.

For lunch, I stopped at Momčilov Grad back in Žabljak. The restaurant is known for serving the freshest produce from their own organic farm and offering national specialities. I enjoyed a hearty lamb stew, a traditional Montenegrin dish that warmed me from the inside out. The restaurant itself is built like a huge wooden chalet and has a terrace with a truly breathtaking view of the entire Durmitor massif. It was the perfect place to reflect on the day's adventures.


Experience traditional Montenegrin cuisine amidst stunning views at Momčilov Grad, a must-visit restaurant in Bosača.
After lunch, I decided to stop by Sport Vision Zabljak. I realized I had forgotten to pack a portable phone charger, a rookie mistake for a travel blogger! I found a suitable replacement and also browsed their selection of hiking gear. It's always good to be prepared, especially with tomorrow's itinerary including a visit to Lovćen National Park.


Explore the outdoors with Sport Vision Zabljak, your one-stop shop for adventure gear in the heart of Montenegro's stunning landscapes.
For dinner, I chose Ukus Durmitora, a restaurant that had been highly recommended for its authentic Montenegrin cuisine. Located in the charming town of Žabljak, this traditional restaurant boasts an atmosphere that perfectly blends rustic charm with modern comfort. The menu at Ukus Durmitora is a celebration of regional flavors, featuring a variety of traditional dishes made from locally sourced ingredients. I opted for the *Kacamak*, a comforting cornmeal dish, and a glass of local red wine. The food was delicious, the service impeccable, and the ambiance warm and inviting. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring Montenegro's hidden corners.


Discover authentic Montenegrin flavors at Ukus Durmitora in Žabljak — where tradition meets taste in a picturesque setting.
As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I feel a profound sense of gratitude for the opportunity to reconnect with my roots. Montenegro is a land of breathtaking beauty and rich history, and I am constantly amazed by the treasures it holds. Tomorrow, I plan to visit Rivière Tara and Lovćen National Park, eager to uncover more of its secrets. I will start the day with breakfast at Durmitorsko Sijelo, followed by lunch at Zlatni Bor and dinner at Zlatni Papagaj. And perhaps, after a day of hiking and sightseeing, I'll treat myself to a drink at Bar, schronisko. Until then, good night from Durmitor!

I'm reminded of something Klaus once said: *Jelena, the past is never truly gone; it lives on in the land, in the people, in the stories we tell.* Today, I felt that truth in every step I took.