Solo Journey Through Montenegro's Durmitor National Park

Day 12: Farewell to Durmitor: Reflecting on Montenegro's Majestic Beauty

A final day exploring Durmitor National Park, savoring local cuisine, and reflecting on the journey through Montenegro's heartland.

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Homeward Bound, But Not Before One Last Glimpse


As my Montenegrin adventure draws to a close, I find myself filled with a bittersweet mix of emotions. This solo journey through Durmitor National Park has been nothing short of transformative, a deep dive into the heart of my heritage and a rediscovery of the land I proudly call my birthplace. Today, on this final day, I wanted to soak in every last bit of Durmitor's magic before heading back to Heidelberg.

The day began, as most have, with a hearty Montenegrin breakfast at Durmitorsko Sijelo. The warmth of the staff and the familiar flavors of kačamak and homemade bread filled me with a sense of contentment. It’s funny how food can transport you back to your childhood, to the kitchens of your grandmothers, filled with laughter and love. This morning, the memories were especially vivid.

Savor traditional Montenegrin flavors in a scenic setting at Durmitorsko Sijelo in Virak.
Savor traditional Montenegrin flavors in a scenic setting at Durmitorsko Sijelo in Virak.

With a full stomach and a grateful heart, I set out to explore the Tara River. The 'Tear of Europe,' as it’s often called, lived up to its name with its crystal-clear turquoise waters. The Tara River Canyon, the deepest in Europe, is a sight to behold. I didn't have time for rafting, but I took in the panoramic views. The bridge itself is an architectural marvel, a testament to human ingenuity amidst nature's grandeur.

Explore the breathtaking beauty of Rivière Tara in Montenegro, a must-visit destination for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.
Explore the breathtaking beauty of Rivière Tara in Montenegro, a must-visit destination for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.

The journey may end, but the memories and lessons learned will forever remain etched in my heart.


Next on the agenda was a visit to Lovćen National Park. Although a bit of a drive from Durmitor, I couldn't resist the call of Lovćen, a place so deeply intertwined with Montenegrin identity. The drive itself was an adventure, with winding roads offering breathtaking vistas of the Montenegrin landscape. As I ascended, the air grew cooler, carrying the scent of pine and wildflowers.

Discover the breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage of Lovćen National Park, a must-visit destination for nature lovers in Montenegro.
Discover the breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage of Lovćen National Park, a must-visit destination for nature lovers in Montenegro.

Lovćen is more than just a mountain; it’s a symbol of Montenegrin resilience and spirit. The park, established in 1952, sprawls across a significant portion of Mount Lovćen. The views from the summit are simply unparalleled. From here, they say, on a clear day, you can see almost all of Montenegro. I wasn't quite so lucky, but the panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the Adriatic coast were stunning nonetheless.

One of the most significant landmarks within Lovćen National Park is the Njegoš Mausoleum, perched atop Jezerski Vrh. It's a somber yet awe-inspiring monument dedicated to Petar II Petrović Njegoš, a revered Montenegrin prince-bishop, poet, and philosopher. Reaching the mausoleum requires climbing 461 steps, a symbolic ascent that prepares you for the spiritual significance of the site.

Inside, the mausoleum is adorned with sculptures by Ivan Meštrović, including a colossal figure of Njegoš himself. The crypt houses Njegoš's remains, and the rotunda offers panoramic views that stretch across the Montenegrin landscape. The mausoleum isn't just a tribute to Njegoš; it's a testament to Montenegrin culture and history.

After soaking in the cultural and natural beauty of Lovćen, it was time for lunch. I decided to stop at Zlatni Bor, a restaurant known for its traditional Montenegrin cuisine. The cozy atmosphere, filled with ethno details from ancient times, made me feel right at home. I savored every bite of the *slow food* concept, made with fresh, organic ingredients from local producers. It was the perfect way to refuel after a day of exploring.

Discover culinary delights at Zlatni Bor in Žabljak—where Montenegrin flavors meet breathtaking natural beauty.
Discover culinary delights at Zlatni Bor in Žabljak—where Montenegrin flavors meet breathtaking natural beauty.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way back towards Žabljak, stopping at Bar, schronisko for a quick drink. It was a cozy spot, a perfect place to relax and reflect on the day's adventures. The bar was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all sharing stories and laughter. It was a reminder of the simple joys of life, the connections we make with others, and the beauty of shared experiences.

Discover the charm of Žabljak’s local bar, offering a cozy atmosphere and refreshing beverages amidst Montenegro's stunning landscapes.
Discover the charm of Žabljak’s local bar, offering a cozy atmosphere and refreshing beverages amidst Montenegro's stunning landscapes.

For my final dinner in Durmitor, I chose Zlatni Papagaj. Nestled in the heart of Žabljak, this restaurant offered a true taste of Montenegrin culinary heritage. The commitment to traditional domestic cuisine was evident in every dish, prepared with love and respect for time-honored recipes. I indulged in hearty stews and succulent meats, savoring the flavors of the land.

Discover the flavors of Montenegro at Zlatni Papagaj - a cozy restaurant offering traditional cuisine amidst breathtaking mountain views.
Discover the flavors of Montenegro at Zlatni Papagaj - a cozy restaurant offering traditional cuisine amidst breathtaking mountain views.

The weather in Durmitor in May is, as expected, unpredictable. During the day, the temperature can rise to around 17°C, but at night, it can drop to around 6°C. I was prepared for the fluctuating temperatures, with layers of clothing to keep me comfortable throughout the day. The chance of rain was also relatively high, but thankfully, the weather held up for most of my explorations.

As I sit here, writing this final blog post from my cozy room, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude. This solo journey through Durmitor National Park has been more than just a vacation; it's been a pilgrimage, a reconnection with my roots, and a rediscovery of the beauty of Montenegro. I've hiked through breathtaking landscapes, savored delicious local cuisine, and connected with the warm and welcoming people of this land.

I am reminded of the stories my grandmother used to tell me about Montenegro, about the strength and resilience of its people, and about the beauty of its natural landscapes. This trip has brought those stories to life, filling me with a renewed sense of pride and connection to my heritage.

As I prepare to leave Durmitor and return to my life in Heidelberg, I carry with me a treasure trove of memories and experiences. I'll never forget the majestic peaks of Durmitor, the crystal-clear waters of the Tara River, or the warmth and hospitality of the Montenegrin people.

And though this chapter of my Montenegrin adventure may be coming to an end, I know that it's not goodbye, but rather, au revoir. I'll be back, Montenegro. I'll be back to explore more of your hidden gems, to savor more of your delicious cuisine, and to reconnect with the people and places that hold such a special place in my heart.

Until next time, dear readers, thank you for joining me on this incredible journey. I hope that my words and experiences have inspired you to explore the beauty and wonder of Montenegro for yourselves. And remember, the world is full of adventures waiting to be discovered, so pack your bags, open your hearts, and set out on your own unforgettable journey.

Safe travels!

Tomorrow, it's time to head back to Podgorica and catch my flight back to Germany. It’s never easy saying goodbye, but I know I’m leaving a piece of my heart here in Montenegro. Until next time!

P.S. I really need to remember to buy a portable phone charger. My phone almost died on me several times during this trip!

And of course, sunscreen! The Montenegrin sun is not to be trifled with.

Safe travels, and until next time!

Go to day 11 Echoes of Illyria: Unearthing History in Montenegro's Hidden Corners
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Solo Journey Through Montenegro's Durmitor National Park

Explore the breathtaking landscapes of Durmitor National Park on a solo journey reconnecting with Montenegrin roots and sharing its wonders.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Jelena Popović
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Librarian specializing in Balkan history and folklore at the Heidelberg University Library.
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 55

Dobar dan! I'm Jelena Popović, a librarian by day and a passionate traveler by night (and weekends!). Originally from the beautiful Montenegro, I now call Heidelberg, Germany, home. My love for stories extends beyond the pages of books to the vibrant cultures and histories of the places I visit. Through this blog, I share my travel experiences, focusing on cultural immersion, historical insights, and the joy of connecting with people from all walks of life. Join me as I explore the Balkans and beyond, one captivating story at a time.

Interests:
  • Balkan history and folklore
  • Genealogy
  • Comparative literature
  • European cinema
  • Sustainable living
More about Jelena Popović

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  • Bar, schronisko

    Discover the charm of Žabljak’s local bar, offering a cozy atmosphere and refreshing beverages amidst Montenegro's stunning landscapes.

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