Cultural and Spiritual Journey Through Kumano Kodo

Finding Peace on Ancient Paths

Today was a day of quiet reflection and physical challenge as we continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo. It’s amazing how these ancient paths, worn smooth by centuries of pilgrims, can still offer such a sense of peace and connection. I found myself thinking about my family back in Berlin, especially Sophie and Hans, and feeling grateful for this opportunity to disconnect from the everyday and reconnect with myself.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. This charming cafe, nestled along the Kumano Kodo in Chikatsuyu, had a rustic atmosphere that immediately made me feel at home. Apparently, it used to be a sake store warehouse. The bagels and muffins were freshly baked, perfect for fueling our morning hike. I opted for a matcha latte, eager to embrace the local flavors. I made a mental note to try baking German Kuchen with matcha when I get back to Berlin, a fusion of my two homes.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set off for the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. The trail wound its way through tranquil forests, offering glimpses of the surrounding mountains. The sunlight filtering through the canopy created a magical atmosphere, and I felt a sense of calm wash over me. The path was well-maintained, making it accessible for hikers of all levels, though there were definitely some steep inclines that got my heart pumping. I was glad I'd packed my hiking boots; I'm not sure my regular trainers would have held up! It was a good thing I remembered those at least, unlike the sunscreen I forgot to pack.


Discover breathtaking views and spiritual trails at Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass, a must-visit hiking destination in Wakayama, Japan.

Along the way, we encountered several small shrines and temples, each with its own unique history and significance. I found myself stopping frequently to admire the intricate carvings and offer a silent prayer. It's fascinating how these sacred sites are so seamlessly integrated into the natural landscape, a testament to the deep-rooted spiritual traditions of the Kumano region. I thought about the pilgrims of centuries past, walking these same paths in search of enlightenment, and I felt a sense of connection to them and to the land itself.

The beauty of the Kumano Kodo lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in its ability to connect you with something larger than yourself.

After a few hours of hiking, we arrived at the Fushiogami Teahouse for lunch. This hidden gem, located along the pilgrimage route in Wakayama, was the perfect place to unwind and refuel. The teahouse specializes in traditional Japanese teas and snacks. I chose a fragrant herbal tea and a small plate of mochi, savoring the flavors and the peaceful ambiance. The teahouse was filled with fellow travelers, all eager to share their experiences and recommendations. I chatted with a lovely couple from Australia, exchanging stories and travel tips. It’s moments like these that make traveling so rewarding, connecting with people from all walks of life and sharing a common love of exploration.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

Continuing our journey, we made our way to Oyunohara, the former site of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine. This expansive area, located at the confluence of the Kumano and Otonashi Rivers, is said to be where the gods descended. In 1889, a major flood destroyed the shrine, and it was subsequently moved to its present location. Today, Oyunohara is marked by a towering Otorii gate, the largest in Japan, which stands as a symbol of the sacredness of the site.


Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a breathtaking Shinto shrine and historical landmark nestled in the heart of Wakayama's Kumano Kodo.

Walking through Oyunohara, I could feel the weight of history and spirituality. The sheer size of the Otorii gate was awe-inspiring, and I spent some time simply gazing up at it, contemplating its significance. I learned that the gate is made of steel and weighs 172 tons. Apparently, the three-legged crow, Yatagarasu, is the symbol of the gate and is considered a messenger of the sun goddess Amaterasu. The area was peaceful and serene, and I took some time to wander around, soaking in the atmosphere. I imagined what it must have been like centuries ago, when this was the site of the grand shrine, filled with pilgrims and priests.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Kakinoate for dinner. Located in front of the torii gate to Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine, this restaurant is known for its persimmon leaf sushi and hand-kneaded soba noodles. I opted for the mixed mackerel and salmon persimmon leaf sushi, a local delicacy that I was eager to try. The sushi was delicious, the persimmon leaf adding a subtle sweetness to the fish. I also enjoyed a bowl of the soba noodles, which were perfectly cooked and flavorful.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

To cap off the evening, we decided to visit Why Kumano, a local bar. This hostel and cafe bar is a popular spot for travelers, offering a welcoming atmosphere and a chance to meet fellow adventurers. I enjoyed a glass of local craft beer, chatting with other guests and sharing stories of our travels. The staff was friendly and helpful, offering recommendations for hiking trails and local attractions. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and reflection.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of today. The Kumano Kodo has a way of slowing you down, of forcing you to be present in the moment. It's a place where you can connect with nature, with history, and with yourself. I’m already looking forward to tomorrow’s trek along the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, and exploring the Yoshino Kumano National Park. I've heard that the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu has some great local crafts, so I might pick up a souvenir for Sophie. It's hard to believe that our journey is coming to an end; I'm already dreading the flight back to Berlin. But I know that the memories and experiences of this trip will stay with me for a lifetime.

I am grateful to be able to experience this trip with my friends. It is always nice to travel with people who enjoy and appreciate similar things.