Cultural and Spiritual Journey Through Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Ancients

Today was a day of deep immersion into the spiritual heart of Kumano Kodo. From the vibrant vermillion of grand shrines to the ancient, rugged paths leading to sacred rocks, every step felt like a journey through time itself. It's remarkable how these places, imbued with centuries of devotion, manage to whisper stories of pilgrims past, of emperors seeking solace, and of gods descending from the heavens.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. Tucked away in Kumano-gawa village, this charming spot, run by the dynamic Ms. Uzawa, provided a perfect start to the day. As I enjoyed my meal, I couldn't help but admire Ms. Uzawa's passion for yoga, music, and the vitality of the Kumano region. It’s these little encounters with locals that truly enrich a travel experience. The cafe itself was a cozy haven, overlooking the Akagi-gawa river and framed by mountains. It reminded me of the Volkshochschule back in Berlin, a place where community and culture intertwine. I made sure to grab a bento box for the road, remembering how important it is to start early, especially for those tackling the Ogumotori-goe route.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

Our first stop was the magnificent Kumano Hayatama Taisha. As one of the three grand shrines of Kumano, it stands as a testament to the enduring power of Shinto beliefs. The vibrant vermillion lacquer of the pavilion was striking against the backdrop of the lush greenery, a scene that felt both ancient and timeless. I learned that this shrine was built to enshrine the Kumano deities who had first descended upon the Gotobiki-Iwa rock at Kamikura Shrine. The main deities, Kumano Hayatama no Okami and Kumano Fusumi no Okami, a divine couple, are central to the Kumano faith.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

Wandering through the grounds, I was drawn to the sacred Nagi tree, said to be over 1,000 years old. Its symmetrical leaves are believed to bring luck to married couples. I couldn't help but think of Hans and Sophie, wishing they were here to share this moment with me. I made a silent wish for our continued happiness and health, a small offering to the spirits of this ancient place. We also explored the Kumano Shimpokan, the Sacred Treasure Museum, which houses approximately 1,200 items, including national treasures. The intricate Makie-hand boxes and Japanese cypress fans from the Muromachi era were particularly fascinating.

The echoes of ancient pilgrims resonate in every stone and tree, reminding us of the timeless quest for spiritual understanding.

Leaving Kumano Hayatama Taisha, we headed towards Kamikura Shrine. This shrine is believed to be the first place where the Kumano deities descended to earth. Reaching it required climbing 538 steep stone steps, a challenge that tested our resolve. The steps, said to have been built during the Kamakura period, wound their way up Mount Chihogamine, offering glimpses of the city and the sea below. As I ascended, I couldn't help but feel a sense of pilgrimage, each step a meditation, a shedding of the everyday worries that cling to us so tightly.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

At the top, we were greeted by the Gotobiki-Iwa, a massive rock that serves as the shrine's main sacred object. This enormous boulder, perched precariously on the mountainside, is believed to possess mysterious powers. The view from the shrine was breathtaking, a panorama of Shingu City and the Kumano-nada Sea. It was easy to understand why this place has been revered for centuries, a spot where the earthly and the divine seem to converge. I imagined Emperor Jimmu receiving divine guidance here, a story that added another layer of depth to this already profound place.

After descending from Kamikura Shrine, our stomachs were beginning to rumble. For lunch, we stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. This restaurant offered a delightful array of local dishes, providing a taste of the region's culinary heritage. I opted for a traditional set meal, savoring the flavors of fresh tuna and locally sourced vegetables. It was a satisfying and fortifying meal, perfect for replenishing our energy after the morning's climb. It’s these simple, authentic experiences that I truly cherish.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

In the afternoon, we took some time to explore the shops near Kumano-Nachi Taisha. Although Kumano-Nachi Taisha itself wasn't on our itinerary for today, I was keen to pick up a few souvenirs. The area was bustling with activity, pilgrims and tourists alike browsing the various offerings. I found a beautiful hand-painted fan depicting the three-legged crow, Yatagarasu, a symbol of the Kumano region. I also picked up some local sweets for Sophie, knowing she would appreciate the thoughtful gesture. I read that the three-legged crow is believed to be a divine messenger of the gods. It was said to have guided Emperor Jimmu, the first Emperor of Japan through the Kumano region.


Discover the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a must-visit Shinto shrine in Japan's stunning Wakayama mountains.

As evening approached, we made our way to Kakinoate for dinner. This restaurant, known for its traditional Kumano cuisine, provided a perfect ending to our day. I opted for a selection of local dishes, including Mehari-zushi (rice balls wrapped in pickled mustard leaves) and a hearty bowl of udon noodles. The flavors were rich and comforting, a reflection of the region's culinary traditions. It was the perfect way to reflect on the day's experiences, to savor the memories we had made.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

Thinking about tomorrow, I’m excited to explore the Doro Kyo Gorge and take a Kumano River Boat Cruise. The natural beauty of this area is something I'm really looking forward to. I've heard that the boat cruise offers a unique perspective on the gorge, allowing you to fully appreciate the towering cliffs and crystal-clear waters. And perhaps a stop at Why Kumano for a nightcap?

Today was a day of spiritual awakening, a journey into the heart of Kumano Kodo. From the grand shrines to the ancient paths, every step felt like a connection to the past, to the spirits of this sacred land. As I drift off to sleep, I carry with me the echoes of the ancients, the whispers of the gods, and the promise of more adventures to come.

I did miss having sunscreen and a travel adapter today. I’ll need to remember to buy those tomorrow! It’s always something, isn’t it?