Cultural and Spiritual Journey Through Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Ancients

Today, the Kumano Kodo unveiled its mystical charm, and I found myself lost in the echoes of ancient pilgrims. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and the promise of profound encounters. With each step, I felt a deeper connection to the spiritual heart of Japan, a place where nature and divinity intertwine.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Watarase Onsen cafe. Sipping on strong Japanese coffee, Hans and I discussed the day ahead, excitement bubbling in our voices. I made sure to grab some extra onigiri for a mid-morning snack; after all, a pilgrim needs sustenance. The cafe was bustling with fellow travelers, all eager to embark on their own Kumano Kodo adventures. It was inspiring to see so many people drawn to this sacred path, each seeking their own form of enlightenment.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

Fueled and ready, we set off towards our first destination: Kumano-Nachi Taisha. The bus ride itself was an experience, winding through verdant hills and past quaint villages. As we approached the shrine, the air grew cooler, and a palpable sense of reverence settled over us. The 467 stone steps leading up to the shrine tested our resolve, but with each step, the anticipation grew. The vibrant vermillion lacquered worship hall stood majestically against the backdrop of the mountains, a testament to centuries of devotion. The shrine's origins are rooted in the ancient nature worship of Nachi Falls, a connection that resonates deeply with my own spiritual inclinations.


Explore the spiritual heart of Wakayama at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a stunning Shinto shrine surrounded by natural beauty and rich cultural history.

Exploring the shrine grounds, we discovered an ancient camphor tree, estimated to be around 850 years old. For a small offering, we were able to step inside the hollow trunk, a symbolic rebirth. The air inside was cool and still, and I felt a profound sense of connection to the tree's ancient wisdom. It was a truly magical experience, one that I will cherish forever.

The journey to enlightenment is not a race, but a dance with the divine.

Next on our itinerary was the Seiganto-ji Temple, a serene Buddhist temple located adjacent to Kumano-Nachi Taisha. This unique juxtaposition of Shinto shrine and Buddhist temple exemplifies the harmonious coexistence of these two faiths in Japan. The temple's three-story pagoda, painted in vibrant red, provided a stunning contrast to the lush green landscape and the cascading Nachi Waterfall in the background.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Seiganto-ji, a historic Buddhist temple overlooking the stunning Nachi Falls in Wakayama, Japan.

According to legend, Seiganto-ji was founded in the 4th century by an Indian monk. It is the first temple on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, a route of 33 sacred temples in the Kansai region. The temple has been rebuilt several times throughout its history, most recently in 1972.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Seiganto-ji is its connection to Nachi Waterfall. The waterfall has been a sacred site for centuries, and the temple was purposely built nearby to harness its spiritual energy. In fact, the waterfall itself is considered a kami, or god, and is worshipped by both Shinto and Buddhist practitioners.

After exploring the temple, we made our way to the Nachi Waterfall, the tallest waterfall in Japan with a single uninterrupted drop. As we approached, the roar of the water grew louder, and a fine mist enveloped us. The sight of the falls was simply breathtaking: a torrent of water cascading down a sheer cliff face, surrounded by ancient forest. It was easy to understand why this place has been revered as a sacred site for centuries.


Discover the stunning Nachi Waterfall in Wakayama, Japan—one of the tallest and most sacred waterfalls in the country, surrounded by lush nature and rich culture.

We took some time to simply sit and absorb the energy of the falls. The air was thick with negative ions, and I felt a sense of peace and rejuvenation wash over me. Legend has it that star-crossed lovers have jumped from the top of the waterfall, believing they would be reborn into Kannon's paradise. While I certainly didn't feel compelled to take such drastic measures, I could understand the allure of such a powerful and transformative place.

For lunch, we stopped at the Fushiogami Teahouse. This charming teahouse is located along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route and offers a welcome respite for weary travelers. We enjoyed traditional Japanese tea and delicious snacks, savoring the peaceful atmosphere and the stunning views of the surrounding landscape. It was a perfect opportunity to reflect on our experiences so far and to prepare for the rest of our day.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

As the afternoon wore on, we made our way to the Kumano Winery Guest House for a pre-dinner drink. Although it felt a bit early for wine, I figured it was important to sample the local offerings. The guest house was charming, with a rustic, farmhouse feel. We sat on the veranda, sipping on crisp white wine and enjoying the panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards and Tanabe Bay. The owners were incredibly welcoming, sharing stories about their passion for winemaking and their love of the Kumano region. It was a delightful and unexpected treat.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

For dinner, we headed to Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. This restaurant is known for its delicious local cuisine and its warm hospitality. We feasted on fresh seafood, locally grown vegetables, and flavorful rice, savoring every bite. The restaurant was filled with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the convivial atmosphere and the delicious food. It was a perfect end to a perfect day.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

As we walked back to our accommodation, the stars twinkled above us, and the sounds of the forest echoed in the night air. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day: the spiritual awakening at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, the serene beauty of Seiganto-ji Temple, the powerful energy of Nachi Waterfall, the peaceful respite at Fushiogami Teahouse, the unexpected pleasure of the Kumano Winery Guest House, and the delicious local cuisine at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan.

Tomorrow, we will continue our journey along the Kumano Kodo, visiting Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara. I am eager to see what other wonders await us on this sacred path. I am also interested to see what the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall has to offer for breakfast. I'm also looking forward to the Toretore Market, and perhaps picking up some souvenirs.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to buy some sunscreen and a travel adapter, as I had forgotten to pack them. Even a seasoned traveler like myself can make mistakes, but that's all part of the adventure.

Goodnight from Kumano Kodo. Until tomorrow!