Cultural and Spiritual Journey Through Kumano Kodo

A Day of Discovery and Reflection

Today was a blend of cultural immersion, spiritual reflection, and of course, some delightful culinary experiences. As I continue my journey through Kumano Kodo with my friends, each day brings new insights and unforgettable moments. It's amazing how much history and natural beauty is packed into this region. I feel so grateful to be sharing this adventure with some of my closest friends, and I know these are memories we'll cherish for a lifetime.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. Shino, the owner, welcomed us with open arms, and her homemade bagels were the perfect start to a day of exploration. The cafe itself is so cute, and it’s clear that Shino puts a lot of love into her baking. Hans would have loved this place, he always appreciates a good bagel. It reminded me of the small cafes we frequent in Berlin, each with its own unique charm and character. I opted for the bagel lunch set, which included a freshly baked bagel, salad with homemade dressing, pickles, and a delicious soup. It was the perfect fuel for the day ahead. I even grabbed a muffin for later, knowing I'd need a little afternoon pick-me-up.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

The journey is the destination, and every step we take reveals a new layer of history and spirituality.

After breakfast, we made our way to the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. This treasure hall is part of the larger Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine complex, nestled in the Kii Mountain Range. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it holds significant cultural and spiritual importance. Inside, we were greeted by an impressive collection of historical artifacts, including ancient scrolls and religious items that offered a glimpse into Shinto practices and the history of the Kumano region.


Explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall, a historical gem showcasing Japan's Shinto heritage and breathtaking natural beauty.

I was particularly fascinated by the Nachisan Shrine Mandala, a 500-year-old painting used by Kumano nuns to preach the Kumano faith. It was incredible to see such a well-preserved piece of history and to imagine the stories it could tell. The collection of small, round mirrors used in the Fire Festival was also captivating. These mirrors, symbols of Amaterasu-no-Okami, the sun goddess, were believed to ward off evil and added another layer of depth to the experience. The Treasure Hall provided a unique insight into the rich history and religious practices of the Kumano region, making it a truly enriching experience.

Next on our itinerary was the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center. This center serves as an excellent introduction to the Kumano Hongu area and the sacred pilgrimage routes. The exhibits provided valuable context about the Kumano Kodo and its significance as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The center is free to enter, which is always a plus ! The modern building houses various services and exhibitions that help visitors understand the cultural, historical, and spiritual heritage of the region. I found the permanent exhibitions, with their English translations, particularly helpful. The “Kii Spirit” exhibition offered a deep dive into the UNESCO World Heritage property, showcasing the sacred sites and pilgrimage routes in the Kii Mountain Range. The Kumano Hongu Exhibitions focused on religious beliefs, sacred sites, and important historical figures, giving us a comprehensive overview of the area.


Immerse yourself in the cultural heritage of the Kumano region at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center, a gateway to the ancient pilgrimage routes.

For lunch, we stopped at Tororoya, a local eatery known for its delicious and comforting dishes. We enjoyed a traditional Japanese meal, savoring the flavors of the region. It was a welcome break after a morning of exploring, and the food was simply divine. Sophie would have loved the food here, she is always excited to explore new dishes. I made a mental note to try and recreate some of the flavors when I get back home. I’ve been trying to incorporate more Japanese cuisine into our meals in Berlin, and this trip is certainly providing plenty of inspiration.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

As evening approached, we had dinner at Sukiya R42 Kumano, a casual dining spot famous for its beef rice bowls. The gyudon was a perfect choice after a long day of walking and sightseeing. The restaurant offered a variety of options, including Japanese curries, making it a great place for a quick and satisfying meal. The prices were very reasonable, which was much appreciated after some of the more tourist-oriented spots we'd visited. It’s the kind of place where you can relax and enjoy simple, well-prepared food without any fuss.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Sukiya R42 Kumano, where delicious meals await in a cozy family-friendly setting.

To cap off the day, we ventured to Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for a relaxing drink. This unique spot combines a winery, guest house, and Italian restaurant, offering a delightful experience in a rural setting. The owners, Giovanni and his wife, are incredibly welcoming, and the atmosphere is warm and inviting. Giovanni, who came to Japan in 2013, creates his own balsamic vinegar and brands his own wine, adding a personal touch to the experience. Although we didn’t have a full meal there, the setting was perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration. The guest house is located in a renovated 90-year-old home, surrounded by vineyards and offering stunning views of Tanabe Bay. It’s the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse yourself in nature.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

As I reflect on today’s adventures, I’m struck by the incredible blend of history, spirituality, and natural beauty that defines the Kumano Kodo. Each site we visited offered a unique perspective on the region’s rich cultural heritage, and the culinary experiences were equally memorable. Sharing these moments with friends makes it even more special. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow, when we plan to visit Tsugizakura-Oji and cross the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass. It promises to be another day filled with exploration and discovery, and I can’t wait to see what awaits us.

And while I'm excited for what tomorrow holds, I'm also mindful to stay present and savor each moment of this journey. It's so easy to get caught up in planning the next adventure, but I want to make sure I'm fully appreciating the beauty and serenity of where I am right now. As we prepare for another day on the Kumano Kodo, I’m reminded of the importance of slowing down, taking a breath, and truly experiencing the world around us. It's a lesson I hope to carry with me long after this trip is over. I should probably pick up some sunscreen and a travel adapter before heading out tomorrow; I knew I forgot something!

Good night from Kumano Kodo!