Cultural and Spiritual Journey Through Kumano Kodo

A Journey Begins

After months of anticipation, I’ve finally arrived in Japan, ready to embark on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage with my friends. Leaving behind the familiar streets of Berlin for the ancient trails of Wakayama Prefecture feels like stepping into another world. Today marks the beginning of our 15-day adventure, a journey I hope will be as enriching spiritually as it is culturally. I'm excited to share every moment with you, from the serene hikes to the delightful local cuisine.

Our day started early with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe in Koyasan. Finding the cafe was a little tricky, but well worth it. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the promise of a traditional Japanese breakfast was enough to shake off any lingering jet lag. We were greeted by the friendly owner, who, despite my rudimentary Japanese, made us feel incredibly welcome. I opted for the traditional Japanese breakfast set, which included grilled fish, miso soup, and rice. It was the perfect fuel for our first day of hiking. Hans, ever the coffee aficionado, raved about their espresso, claiming it rivaled some of his favorite Berlin cafes.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

After breakfast, we made our way to Koyazaka Slope, a part of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. The bus ride from Koyasan was scenic, offering glimpses of the lush landscapes that define this region. Arriving at the trailhead, I was immediately struck by the tranquility of the area. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of cedar and damp earth. As we started our ascent, the path wound through a dense forest, sunlight dappling through the canopy above. The moss-covered cobblestones underfoot spoke of centuries of pilgrims who had walked this path before us.


Discover the enchanting Koyazaka Slope in Wakayama, a captivating hiking area rich in history and breathtaking views, perfect for all nature lovers.

The Koyazaka Slope was a gentle introduction to the Kumano Kodo, with well-preserved paths lined with ancient trees and vibrant flora. We took our time, stopping to admire the small Jizo statues along the way, each one a silent sentinel watching over the pilgrims. About fifteen minutes into our walk, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view of Ojigahama Coast. The vast expanse of the Kumano-nada Sea shimmered in the distance, a perfect contrast to the dense forest we were traversing. It was a moment of serene beauty, a reminder of the natural wonders that Japan holds. Even though September is known to be a bit rainy, we were lucky to have a perfectly clear day.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

Continuing on, we eventually reached the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. This part of the trail promised a more immersive experience, delving deeper into the heart of the Kumano Kodo. We paused for a moment, taking in the significance of this gateway to a network of ancient pilgrimage routes. The path here was a bit more challenging, with steeper inclines and uneven terrain. Comfortable hiking shoes, thankfully one of the items I remembered to pack, were essential.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead, where ancient paths meet stunning natural beauty in Wakayama, Japan.

The hike through the Dainichietsu trail was nothing short of mesmerizing. Towering trees formed a natural cathedral overhead, their branches intertwined to create a cool, shaded path. The vibrant flora added splashes of color to the landscape, with ferns, mosses, and wildflowers thriving in the humid environment. The sounds of nature enveloped us – the gentle rustling of leaves, the chirping of unseen birds, and the distant murmur of a flowing stream. It was a symphony of serenity, a welcome escape from the noise and chaos of city life.

Around midday, our stomachs started to rumble, signaling it was time for lunch. We made our way to KUMANOYASAI CAFE, a charming spot along the Kumano Kodo known for its delicious and healthy meals. The cafe is run by Shino, a warm and friendly owner who greeted us with a big smile. The cafe itself was cozy and inviting, with a rustic décor that perfectly complemented the natural surroundings. I opted for the weekly lunch set, which included a freshly baked bagel, a vibrant salad with homemade dressing, pickles, and a hearty soup. The flavors were beautifully balanced, and every ingredient tasted incredibly fresh. Hans chose a traditional meal and was equally impressed. We felt rejuvenated and ready to continue our journey.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

After lunch, we couldn't resist stopping by the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. Road stations are a unique part of Japanese culture, offering a place for travelers to rest, shop for local goods, and learn about the region. This particular road station was a treasure trove of Kumano-related souvenirs, from local crafts to regional delicacies. I picked up a few small gifts for Sophie, knowing she would appreciate a taste of Japan when I return to Berlin. I was tempted to buy some Kumano beef, but decided against it, knowing it wouldn’t survive the journey back to Germany.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

As evening approached, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. After a day of hiking, we were both craving something hearty and satisfying. The steak house is known for its high-quality Kumano beef, and we were eager to try it. The restaurant had a warm and inviting atmosphere, with friendly staff and the tantalizing aroma of grilled meat filling the air. I ordered a Kumano beef steak, cooked medium-rare, and Hans opted for the hamburg steak, a local specialty. Both dishes were cooked to perfection, the beef tender and flavorful. It was the perfect end to a long but rewarding day.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

Reflecting on our first day, I’m filled with a sense of gratitude and excitement. The Kumano Kodo has already exceeded my expectations, offering a blend of natural beauty, cultural immersion, and spiritual reflection. The trails were challenging but manageable, and the local cuisine was a delightful surprise. I am also grateful I remembered to pack my camera, as I was able to capture some truly unforgettable moments. I did, however, forget to bring sunscreen and a travel adapter, a mistake I will rectify tomorrow.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Kumano-Nachi Taisha, Seiganto-ji, and Nachi Waterfall. We'll start with breakfast at Watarase onsen cafe, followed by lunch at Fushiogami Teahouse, and dinner at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. And, if we have time, we might even visit the Kumano Winery Guest House for a well-deserved drink. I am looking forward to another day of adventure on this ancient pilgrimage route.

“The best journey takes you home, even if you never leave.”

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it’s a journey through time, a connection to the past, and a path to self-discovery. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings. Until then, sayōnara from Japan!