Cultural Exploration in Fes with Friends

A Day of Discovery in Fes El Jdid

Today, I ventured deeper into the historical heart of Fes, a city that continues to surprise and enchant me at every turn. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of our guesthouse, my friends and I set out to explore Fes El Jdid, the 'New Fes,' and its hidden treasures. This part of the city, founded in the 13th century, promised a different perspective on Fes's rich tapestry of culture and history, and it certainly delivered.


Discover the rich history and vibrant culture of Fes El Jdid, where ancient architecture and local traditions intertwine in a Moroccan treasure.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at La Maison Bleue. This Riad is known for its traditional Moroccan cuisine. It was a delightful start to the day. I savored every bite of the flavorful dishes, fueling up for our explorations ahead. I made a mental note to perhaps try their culinary school one day, I think Sophie would enjoy that.

Exploring Fes El Jdid

Our first stop was Fes El Jdid itself. Founded in 1276 by the Marinid dynasty, Fes El Jdid served as the kingdom's capital. It felt like stepping into a different era. Unlike the labyrinthine alleys of Fes el Bali, Fes El Jdid boasts a more organized layout, though no less captivating. The blend of Moroccan and Andalusian architectural styles was immediately apparent, with grand gates and impressive walls showcasing the opulence once associated with Moroccan royalty.

As we wandered through its streets, I couldn't help but imagine what life must have been like centuries ago, when this part of the city was the center of power and governance. The air was thick with history, and every corner seemed to whisper stories of sultans, scholars, and artisans who once walked these very paths.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found not in grand monuments, but in the quiet corners of history.

One of the highlights of Fes El Jdid is undoubtedly the Royal Palace, or Dar al-Makhzen. Although we couldn't venture inside, the palace's grand gates and impressive walls were a sight to behold. The intricate details and the sheer scale of the complex spoke volumes about the power and artistry of the Marinid rulers. I learned that the palace has seven access doors representing the days of the week and levels of monarchy. I was particularly struck by the elaborate ceilings of bronze overlaid on solid wood. The mosaic of green and blue colored tiles reminded me of the Bab Bou Jeloud. The palace is more than 200 acres, with the facade being the only part we can see.

Aben Danan Synagogue: A Hidden Gem

Next, we ventured into the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter of Fes. This historic neighborhood, established in the 15th century, is a testament to the city's diverse cultural heritage. The Mellah's unique architecture, with its wrought iron and wooden balconies, set it apart from the rest of the medina. It was fascinating to learn that the Jewish community was moved here during the Marinid period to be closer to the Royal Palace for protection.

Our destination within the Mellah was the Aben Danan Synagogue, a hidden gem dating back to the 17th century. Finding the synagogue was an adventure in itself. Tucked away behind an unassuming door, it felt like discovering a secret world. The synagogue was built by Mimoun Ben Sidan, a merchant from Ait Ishaq when 1600 Jewish families moved to Fez. Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the serene atmosphere and the beautiful craftsmanship. The walls were adorned with blue figured Moroccan tiles, and the wooden ceiling was intricately beamed and painted. The light streamed through the small windows high in the walls, creating a peaceful ambiance.

Explore the Aben Danan Synagogue in Fes, a stunning historical site showcasing Morocco's rich Jewish heritage and architectural beauty.

The Torah Ark, a cupboard filling an entire wall, was a masterpiece of carved wood, with elaborate plasterwork above. Opposite the Ark, a raised alcove with a wooden screen showcased the seating area for the congregation's distinguished members. I was particularly drawn to the bimah, a small platform with a wrought iron canopy of Islamic-style arches and floral forms. The synagogue has been restored since the 1870s after the Jewish community nominated the building to the 1996 World Monuments Watch of the World Monuments Fund. It's incredible to think of the history held within those walls, the prayers whispered, and the community that thrived here for centuries.

Andalusian Mosque: A Testament to Faith and Heritage

Our final major stop of the day was the Andalusian Mosque, a significant landmark in Fes el Bali. Founded in 859 AD by Maryam al-Fihri, the sister of Fatima al-Fihri (who founded the University of Al Quaraouiyine), the mosque stands as a testament to Islamic history in Morocco. The mosque derives its name from the Andalusian settlers who contributed to its construction.

The mosque is distinguished by its unique architectural design, reflecting the ingenuity of Moroccan artisans throughout the ages. The prayer hall consists of seven naves parallel to the qibla wall, topped by a cedar wood ceiling supported by 124 columns of varying shapes and sizes, some of which are clad in marble. The ceiling is adorned with intricately decorated wooden domes, while most of the mosque's walls and floors are covered with zellij tiles and wood. The mosque can accommodate around 4,000 worshippers.

Explore the Andalusian Mosque in Fes, a stunning example of Islamic architecture and a cultural cornerstone in Morocco's historical landscape.

I learned that the mosque has undergone several expansions and restorations. The Marinids added a fountain and library in the 13th century. Sultan Moulay Ismail ordered a renovation during the reign of the Alaouites. The mosque was rebuilt in 1937 during the reign of King Mohammed V and attached to the University of Al Quaraouiyine, further solidifying its role as a religious and scholarly center.

A Culinary Interlude

For lunch, we stopped at Al Oud, a restaurant recommended for its authentic Moroccan dishes. The restaurant is known for its price to quality ratio. We sampled a variety of dishes, including the harira soup, chicken/pickled lemon tagine, and medium couscous. Each dish was a burst of flavor, showcasing the rich culinary heritage of Morocco. I particularly enjoyed the pastilla with sweet chicken. The innovative dish had a sweet and savory combination. I washed it all down with a virgin mojito, made with sprite and freshly ground mint. It was highly praised by a reviewer and I can see why.

Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Al Oud in Fes El Bali—where tradition meets taste in a charming setting.

Evening Reflections and a Nightcap

As the day drew to a close, we sought a place to unwind and reflect on our experiences. We found ourselves at Eden Chope Bar, a local spot known for its relaxed atmosphere and refreshing drinks. While it wasn't the most highly-rated bar, it offered a welcome respite from the bustling streets.

Experience the vibrant nightlife of Fès at Eden Chope Bar, where traditional flavors meet modern mixology in a cozy setting.

Sipping on a cold beer, I thought about the day's journey through Fes El Jdid and the Mellah. I was grateful for the opportunity to witness the city's diverse history and cultural heritage. Fes continues to captivate me, and I am eager to see what tomorrow brings, as we plan to visit the Marinid Tombs, Borj Nord Museum, and Viewpoint Medina.

It's always great to travel with friends, but I do miss Hans and Sophie. I´ll be sure to bring them along next time.