Exploring the Natural Wonders of Iceland's Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Whispers of the Past, Visions of the Present

Today marked the final day of our Snæfellsnes adventure, and what a culmination it was! After ten days of immersing ourselves in Iceland's raw beauty, I felt a pang of sadness knowing our journey was nearing its end. Yet, the experiences we packed into this last day were nothing short of spectacular, leaving me with memories I know my family and I will cherish forever. Today, we ventured into landscapes that whispered ancient tales, and stood in awe before vistas that stretched beyond the horizon.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Agnið streetfood. The fresh air and promise of adventure had certainly worked up our appetites. We devoured some delicious fish tacos, a local recommendation, which gave us the perfect boost of energy for the day ahead. Aino was particularly thrilled, declaring them the best tacos she'd ever had – a high compliment coming from a twelve-year-old with a penchant for Tex-Mex!

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off towards Berserkjahraun, a lava field steeped in legend. The drive itself was breathtaking, the landscape unfolding before us like a surreal painting. The black lava rocks, covered in vibrant green moss, created a stark yet beautiful contrast against the clear blue sky. It felt like stepping onto another planet. I read about the area and how it was formed about 4,000 years ago and the lava flowed from a series of craters known as the Ljósufjöll volcanic system. The rapid cooling resulted in the jagged obsidian rocks that define the landscape.


Explore the breathtaking landscapes of Berserkjahraun, a captivating mountain peak in Iceland offering stunning views and unforgettable hiking experiences.

As we walked through Berserkjahraun, I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence. The very name, translating to Berserkers' Lava Field, evokes images of fierce Viking warriors. Markus, ever the history enthusiast, recounted the saga of the two Swedish berserkers who were tasked with building a road through the lava field. According to the Eyrbyggja Saga, a farmer brought two berserkers from Sweden to Iceland. He later gave the berserkers to his brother, Víga-Styr, who lived on the other side of the lava field. One of the Swedes fell in love with Víga-Styr's daughter and asked for her hand in marriage. The condition was that they had to clear a path through the lava field. They completed the task, but were then betrayed and killed. Walking along the path they supposedly forged, I couldn't help but imagine their strength and determination.

To walk through Iceland is to walk through the sagas, where every stone and every field holds a story waiting to be told.

The stark beauty of Berserkjahraun was captivating. The jagged lava formations, sculpted by centuries of wind and weather, created a labyrinthine landscape that sparked the imagination. Aino, with her boundless energy, delighted in exploring the nooks and crannies, while Markus and I soaked in the serene atmosphere. I took out my camera, trying to capture the essence of this otherworldly place. I thought about my work back in Helsinki, surrounded by books and the quiet hum of the library. Here, the library was the landscape itself, each rock a page in a timeless saga.

Our next stop was Gufuskálar, an ancient fishing station that offered a glimpse into Iceland's maritime past. The drive to Gufuskálar was an adventure in itself, the road winding along the rugged coastline. As we approached the site, the remnants of old fishermen's huts and storage sheds came into view, blending seamlessly with the surrounding lava fields. It was a poignant reminder of the generations who had braved the harsh elements to make a living from the sea.


Explore Gufuskálar, a historical landmark revealing Iceland's maritime heritage amidst stunning coastal landscapes.

We explored the ruins, imagining the bustling activity that once filled this place. I read that Gufuskálar dates back to at least the year 1274. The King owned half of the land and the church at Staðarstaður owned the other half. We walked down to the beach, where we could see the wakes in the stones, grooves left by the keels of the rowboats. It was incredible to think that these simple stones held the stories of countless voyages and hard-won catches. Markus pointed out the remains of fourteen fishing booths, each one a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of the Icelandic fishermen.

One of the highlights of Gufuskálar was Írskrabrunnur, the Well of the Irish. According to local lore, this well dates back to the time of the early Viking settlements and is associated with Irish monks who may have inhabited the area before the Norsemen arrived. It's believed that there were some Irish people in Iceland before the Vikings settled here. The Viking settler Ketill gufa Örlygsson stayed at Gufuskálar for some winters. The well was the water supply in this area for centuries until it got lost from sight. It was rediscovered in 1989. Standing by the well, I felt a connection to the past, imagining the hands that had drawn water from its depths centuries ago. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the enduring power of history and the stories that connect us to those who came before.

Lunch was a delightful affair at Hotel Langaholt & Restaurant. The cozy atmosphere and stunning views made it the perfect place to relax and refuel. We enjoyed some traditional Icelandic fare, including a hearty fish soup that warmed us from the inside out. The staff were incredibly welcoming, making us feel right at home. Aino was particularly fond of the homemade bread, declaring it just like Grandma used to make. It was moments like these, sharing a meal and laughter with my family, that made this trip so special.


Discover breathtaking landscapes and delicious local cuisine at Hotel Langaholt & Restaurant in Snæfellsbær, Iceland.

Our final stop of the day was Rauðhóll, a striking red volcanic crater. The hike to the top was relatively easy, even for Aino, and the views from the summit were simply breathtaking. The red scoria contrasted sharply with the surrounding green landscape, creating a visual spectacle that was truly unforgettable. The crater was created in an eruption ca. 5-8000 years ago. It was amazing to see the views down to Öndverðarnes and Saxhól, together with the proximity to Snæfellsjökull.


Explore Rauðhóll, an enchanting hiking area on Snæfellsnes Peninsula, where breathtaking landscapes and unique geological features await.

From the summit, we could see the vast expanse of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula stretching out before us, a tapestry of lava fields, mountains, and coastline. It was a fitting end to our journey, a moment to reflect on all that we had seen and experienced. I thought about how much I'd miss this landscape when I returned to my familiar life in Helsinki. I imagined myself back in the library, surrounded by the quiet rustle of pages, but now with vivid memories of Iceland dancing in my mind.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the landscape, we made our way back to our campsite. We decided to treat ourselves to dinner at Hvanneyri Pub. The pub had a cosy atmosphere and the food was hearty and comforting. I tried the local lamb dishes. After dinner, Markus and I decided to have a nightcap at The English Pub, while Aino settled in with a book. The pub was lively and welcoming, a perfect spot to unwind after a long day of exploring.


Discover the heart of Icelandic flavors at Hvanneyri Pub, where grilled delicacies meet a homey atmosphere.


Discover The English Pub in Reykjavík for a cozy atmosphere, diverse drinks, and vibrant nightlife, perfect for both locals and tourists.

Tomorrow, we begin our journey back to Reykjavik, where we'll catch our flight back to Helsinki. While I'm eager to return home and share our adventures with friends and colleagues, I know that a part of me will always remain in Iceland, amidst the lava fields, glaciers, and endless skies. This trip has been more than just a vacation; it's been a journey of discovery, connection, and renewal. As we prepare to leave, I feel grateful for the memories we've created and the bonds we've strengthened. Snæfellsnes, you have captured our hearts, and we will never forget you.

As our incredible journey comes to an end, I can't help but feel a sense of melancholy mixed with immense gratitude. This trip has not only been an escape into nature’s grandeur but also a beautiful chapter in our family’s story. As we prepare to leave, I know we’re taking a piece of Iceland with us – a reminder of the raw beauty, the captivating legends, and the unbreakable bonds we’ve strengthened along the way.