Family Adventure in Hornstrandir: An Icelandic Wilderness Escape

Arrival in Ísafjörður: The Adventure Begins

After months of planning and anticipation, our family adventure to Iceland's Hornstrandir Nature Reserve has officially begun! Leaving the familiar landscapes of Helsinki behind, we touched down in Ísafjörður, the charming capital of the Westfjords, ready to embrace the raw beauty and untamed wilderness that awaits us.

The journey here was an adventure in itself. After our flight from Helsinki to Reykjavik, we hopped on a smaller domestic flight to Ísafjörður. Aino was glued to the window, mesmerized by the ever-changing landscape below – from the sprawling urban areas near Reykjavik to the rugged coastline and dramatic fjords that heralded our arrival in the Westfjords. I must admit, even I, with my well-traveled past, felt a thrill as we approached, knowing we were on the cusp of something truly special. Markus, ever the pragmatist, double-checked our gear, ensuring we had everything we needed for our upcoming days in the reserve. I did have a sinking feeling when I remembered that I had forgotten the portable solar charger, but I am sure we will manage.

Ísafjörður welcomed us with open arms – or rather, with its crisp, clean air and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The town itself is a delightful mix of colorful houses, quaint shops, and a palpable sense of history. It felt a world away from the bustling streets of Helsinki, and I immediately felt a sense of calm wash over me. This was the perfect place to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with nature, and with each other. I felt a pang of excitement mixed with a touch of nervousness, a feeling I haven't experienced in quite some time. It reminded me of my early days in Alaska, when every new trail was an invitation to the unknown.

Our first order of business was to fuel up for the adventures ahead. Breakfast at Tjöruhúsið was an absolute treat. This renowned seafood restaurant, with its rustic charm and reputation for serving the freshest catches of the day, was the perfect introduction to Westfjords cuisine. Although known for its seafood, they also had some vegetarian options, which was great for me. Aino, surprisingly adventurous, even tried a small piece of smoked fish, declaring it interesting. Markus, of course, savored every bite, already planning our return visit. I enjoyed a hearty bowl of skyr with fresh berries, a traditional Icelandic breakfast that gave me the energy I needed for the day ahead.


Discover authentic Icelandic seafood at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður—where every dish tells a story from the sea.

After breakfast, we strolled through the town, soaking in the atmosphere and popping into Rammagerð Ísafjarðar, a local shop filled with Icelandic crafts and souvenirs. Aino was immediately drawn to the hand-knitted wool sweaters, imagining herself wearing them on our hikes. I picked up a small, intricately carved wooden puffin, a reminder of the wildlife we hoped to see in Hornstrandir. Markus, always practical, bought a detailed map of the reserve, determined to navigate us through the wilderness with precision. As a librarian specializing in Arctic and Nordic literature, I couldn't resist purchasing a small book of Icelandic folk tales, eager to delve into the rich mythology of this land.


Explore Rammagerð Ísafjarðar: A treasure trove of unique Icelandic gifts, handcrafted art, and seasonal delights that reflect the local culture.

For lunch, we opted for Edinborg Bistro, a cozy spot with a menu featuring both traditional Icelandic fare and international dishes. I chose a hearty vegetable soup, while Markus enjoyed a lamb stew, a classic Icelandic comfort food. Aino, predictably, went for the pizza, but even she admitted it was delicious. The bistro had a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, and we spent a leisurely hour chatting and planning our final preparations for Hornstrandir. I loved looking around and seeing all the locals and tourists mingling and enjoying themselves in the cozy atmosphere.


Discover the flavors of Iceland at Edinborg Bistro - where local ingredients meet culinary excellence in Ísafjörður.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we spent the afternoon finalizing our preparations for the boat trip to Hornstrandir. We double-checked our camping gear, ensuring we had everything we needed to brave the elements. We repacked our backpacks, distributing the weight evenly to make our hikes as comfortable as possible. I made sure my camera was easily accessible, eager to capture the stunning landscapes and unique wildlife of the reserve. Markus, ever the meticulous planner, reviewed our itinerary, making sure we were prepared for any eventuality. Aino helped by organizing our snacks, carefully rationing them to last the duration of our trip. I was so proud of her for being so responsible and helpful.

As the day drew to a close, we treated ourselves to dinner at Logn, restaurant & bar. The restaurant had a modern, stylish ambiance, a stark contrast to the rustic charm of Tjöruhúsið. The menu featured a mix of Icelandic and international dishes, with a focus on fresh, local ingredients. I savored a delicious vegetarian pasta dish, while Markus indulged in a perfectly cooked piece of arctic char. Aino, surprisingly, tried the lamb burger, declaring it the best burger she had ever tasted. The meal was a perfect blend of familiar and new, reflecting our own journey as we prepared to immerse ourselves in the unknown.


Experience authentic Icelandic flavors at Logn in Ísafjörður – where fresh local ingredients meet warm hospitality.

As I reflect on our first day, I am filled with a sense of excitement and anticipation. Ísafjörður has charmed us with its beauty and warmth, and we are eager to explore the untamed wilderness of Hornstrandir. Tomorrow, we set sail for Kvíar Lodge and Drangaskörð, where we will begin our hiking adventure in earnest. I can't wait to see what wonders await us in this remote corner of the world. One thing is certain: this is a journey we will never forget.

The wilderness holds answers to questions we have not yet learned to ask.

I am particularly looking forward to our visit to Kvíar Lodge tomorrow. From what I've read, it's a place steeped in history, offering a glimpse into the lives of those who once called this remote region home. I imagine the stories those walls could tell! And Drangaskörð... the photos I've seen are simply breathtaking. Hiking through those mountain passes, surrounded by the raw, untouched beauty of Iceland, will be an experience I know we'll all cherish. I anticipate the meals at Jötunn restaurant, Café Riis Hólmavík, and Restaurant Galdur, each promising a unique taste of the region's culinary offerings. And perhaps, if we're lucky, we'll have a chance to visit Dokkan Brugghús for a taste of local Icelandic beer.

But beyond the specific attractions and activities, what I'm most excited about is the opportunity to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with each other. In our everyday lives, we're so often caught up in the hustle and bustle of work, school, and social media. This trip to Hornstrandir is a chance to slow down, to breathe, and to truly appreciate the beauty of the natural world and the bonds that tie us together as a family.

As I sit here in our cozy guesthouse, the midnight sun casting a soft glow over the town, I can't help but feel grateful for this opportunity. It's a privilege to be able to explore such a remote and beautiful place with the people I love most in the world. And I know that the memories we make here will last a lifetime.

Goodnight from Ísafjörður. Tomorrow, the real adventure begins.