Family Adventure in Hornstrandir: An Icelandic Wilderness Escape

A Day of Contrasts

Today was a day of stark contrasts, a theme that seems to be weaving itself into the fabric of our Icelandic adventure. From the haunting remnants of a bygone era to the serene embrace of untouched nature, Hornstrandir continues to surprise and captivate us. Join me as I recount our journey through Djúpavík and Stórurðarlundur, two vastly different yet equally mesmerizing destinations.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Hamraborg ehf. I savored the simple pleasures of strong Icelandic coffee and freshly baked bread, fueling up for the adventures that lay ahead. Aino was particularly excited, having dreamt of exploring the abandoned herring factory in Djúpavík. Markus, ever the pragmatist, double-checked our hiking gear, ensuring we were prepared for any eventuality. I, of course, made sure my camera was charged – wouldn't want to miss capturing any of the day's memories!

The drive to Djúpavík was an experience in itself. The rugged coastline unfolded before us, a tapestry of dramatic cliffs and windswept shores. The landscape here is truly something out of a Nordic saga, raw and untamed. As we approached Djúpavík, the imposing silhouette of the abandoned herring factory loomed into view, a stark reminder of the town's past.


Discover the historic Djúpavík, where Iceland's fishing legacy comes to life in a stunning coastal setting, perfect for nature lovers and history buffs alike.

Djúpavík: Where History Haunts the Landscape

Djúpavík is a place where time seems to stand still. The abandoned herring factory, once the heart of this small town, now stands as a haunting monument to a bygone era. Exploring its cavernous halls was like stepping back in time, imagining the bustling activity that once filled these walls.

The history of Djúpavík is a poignant tale of boom and bust. Founded in 1917 by Elías Stefánsson, the herring factory initially brought prosperity to the region. However, economic hardship led to its closure just two years later. A new factory, then the largest concrete building in Iceland, was built in 1934, ushering in a period of success. But the herring stocks dwindled in the 1940s, and by 1954, the factory was abandoned once more.

Wandering through the factory, I could almost hear the echoes of the past – the clatter of machinery, the shouts of workers, the hopes and dreams of a community built around the silver bounty of the sea. Aino was fascinated by the sheer scale of the building, its empty windows gazing out onto the fjord like vacant eyes. Markus, ever the engineer, marveled at the ingenuity of the construction, a testament to Iceland's industrial ambitions.

We took a guided tour of the factory, delving deeper into its history. Our guide shared stories of the people who had lived and worked here, their lives intertwined with the fate of the herring. It was a sobering reminder of the fragility of human endeavor, and the power of nature to shape our destinies.

Sometimes, the most beautiful places are those that bear the marks of history, reminding us of the triumphs and tribulations of those who came before.

After exploring the factory, we took a walk along the shore, the waves crashing against the black sand beach. The raw beauty of the landscape was both captivating and melancholic, a fitting backdrop to the story of Djúpavík. It was here that I truly felt the weight of history, the echoes of the past resonating in the wind and the waves.

Lunch with a Twist

For lunch, we opted for something a little different – Thai Tawee. I know what you're thinking, why Thai food in Iceland? Well, sometimes the best travel experiences come from unexpected detours. The food was surprisingly good, a welcome burst of flavor amidst the stark landscape. Aino, always adventurous, even tried a bite of the spicy green curry, much to Markus' amusement. We laughed and shared stories, the warmth of the meal a comforting contrast to the cool Icelandic air.

Stórurðarlundur: An Oasis of Tranquility

After immersing ourselves in the haunting history of Djúpavík, we sought solace in the serene beauty of Stórurðarlundur. This tranquil oasis, nestled amidst the rugged landscape, is a testament to the restorative power of nature.

The drive to Stórurðarlundur was a scenic journey, winding through valleys and over hills. The landscape transformed from stark coastal terrain to lush green meadows, a welcome change after the somber atmosphere of Djúpavík. As we approached Stórurðarlundur, the air grew still, the only sound the gentle murmur of the wind.


Discover the tranquility of Stórurðarlundur, a serene park in Ísafjörður, perfect for nature walks and family picnics amidst stunning Icelandic landscapes.

Stórurðarlundur, meaning big rock field forest, is a unique geological formation, characterized by giant boulders scattered across a verdant landscape. It was formed at the end of the last ice age, when a massive landslide created a natural amphitheater of rock and vegetation. Today, it's a haven for hikers and nature lovers, a place to escape the hustle and bustle of modern life.

We embarked on a leisurely hike through the park, the trail winding through meadows and over streams. The air was fresh and clean, the scent of wildflowers filling our nostrils. Aino skipped ahead, her laughter echoing through the valley. Markus and I strolled hand in hand, marveling at the beauty of our surroundings.

The highlight of Stórurðarlundur is the turquoise lake nestled amidst the boulders. The water was crystal clear, reflecting the surrounding mountains like a mirror. We found a secluded spot on the shore and enjoyed a picnic, savoring the peace and tranquility of this hidden gem. Aino paddled in the shallows, her face beaming with joy. Markus sketched the landscape in his notebook, capturing the essence of this magical place.

As we sat there, surrounded by the beauty of Stórurðarlundur, I felt a sense of contentment wash over me. The contrast between the haunting history of Djúpavík and the serene beauty of this place was striking, yet both experiences were equally valuable. They reminded me that life is a tapestry of light and shadow, joy and sorrow, and that it's important to embrace it all.

Evening Reflections

Our day concluded with dinner at Logn, restaurant & bar. We recounted our adventures, sharing stories and laughter. Aino, exhausted but happy, fell asleep on my shoulder. Markus and I lingered over our drinks, reflecting on the day's experiences.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Drangajökull útsýnisstaður, hoping for clear skies to get a good view of the glacier. We'll also stop by Falda - Hannyrða- og skartgripaverslun, a local craft shop, to pick up some souvenirs. I'm particularly excited about trying Kaffi Norðurfjörður for breakfast; I've heard they serve traditional Icelandic delicacies.

Today was a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but about experiencing new perspectives. From the haunting history of Djúpavík to the serene beauty of Stórurðarlundur, Hornstrandir has offered us a glimpse into the soul of Iceland, a land of contrasts and wonders. I am grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with my family, and I look forward to the adventures that lie ahead.

I find myself thinking about a quote I once read by Halldór Laxness, the Nobel laureate who set his novel Guðsgjafaþula in the Djúpavík area:

Time is not a line but a dimension, like the dimensions of space. If you can bend space you can bend time also, and if you knew enough you could bend it into a circle.

Perhaps that's what I'm experiencing here in Iceland – a bending of time, a connection to the past, and a glimpse into the endless possibilities of the future. Goodnight from Hornstrandir.