Solo Adventure in the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Of Drums, History, and Island Lore

Today was a day of contrasts, blending the physical challenge of a mountain hike with the introspective journey through Yakushima's history. It’s a reminder that travel isn't just about seeing new places, but also about understanding the stories etched into the land and its people. I find myself pondering how different cultures shape our perspectives and how nature, in its raw beauty, connects us all.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley [i]. The name itself was a good omen, and the simple, nourishing meal set me up perfectly for the adventures ahead. I savored every bite, knowing I’d need the energy for the climb to Drum Rock, or Taiko-iwa as it’s known locally.


Explore the breathtaking Taiko-iwa, a spectacular hiking destination in Yakushima, offering stunning views, rich biodiversity, and cultural significance.

The trail to Drum Rock was, as many had described, a challenging but rewarding experience. The path wound its way through the lush forest, a symphony of greens and browns, with sunlight dappling through the canopy above. I was grateful for my hiking boots, a vital piece of equipment I’d remembered from my packing list. The air was thick with humidity, a reminder that Yakushima is a subtropical paradise, even in late July. I was glad I had packed my waterproof jacket as well, since the weather in Yakushima can be unpredictable.

Sometimes the most rewarding experiences are those that test our limits, both physically and mentally.

As I ascended, I was struck by the sheer diversity of plant life. Towering Yakusugi cedars, some over a thousand years old, stood as silent sentinels, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. The forest floor was carpeted in moss, a vibrant green tapestry that seemed to soften every surface. It was easy to see why this landscape had inspired Studio Ghibli's *Princess Mononoke*; the mystical atmosphere was palpable. I even spotted a few Yakushima macaques, their curious eyes watching me from the trees. They seemed unperturbed by my presence, a testament to the island's harmonious relationship between humans and wildlife.

Reaching Drum Rock was an exhilarating moment. The massive granite boulder, perched atop the mountain, offered panoramic views of the island and the vast expanse of the ocean. It was easy to see why it was called Drum Rock, because when struck, the rock makes a sound similar to that of a drum. I took a moment to simply breathe, soaking in the vista and feeling grateful for the opportunity to witness such natural beauty. It was a far cry from my cozy Helsinki apartment, but in that moment, I felt a sense of connection to the earth that transcended geographical boundaries. I thought of Markus and Aino, imagining their faces if they were here with me, sharing this view.

After descending from Drum Rock, my appetite was calling. I headed to Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan for lunch [i].


Discover Yakushima's culinary treasures and unique souvenirs at Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan - where local flavors meet island charm.

The market was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all eager to sample the island's culinary offerings. I opted for a bento box filled with local delicacies, including fresh seafood, mountain vegetables, and a variety of pickled delights. It was a delicious and satisfying meal, a perfect representation of Yakushima's natural bounty.

In the afternoon, I decided to immerse myself in the island's history and culture with a visit to the Yakushima Museum of History and Folklore [i, 5, 6, 8].


Discover Yakushima's cultural treasures at the Yakushima Museum of History and Folklore, where local traditions and history come to life.

The museum, located by the scenic Miyanoura River, offered a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the people who have called Yakushima home for centuries.

The exhibits showcased a range of artifacts, from prehistoric pottery to locally produced textiles and old fishing tools. I was particularly intrigued by the replica of a traditional house from nearby Kuchinoerabu Island, built before World War II. It offered a tangible connection to the past, a glimpse into the daily lives of islanders from a bygone era. Although the signs were primarily in Japanese, the English pamphlets provided were helpful in understanding the context and significance of the exhibits. The museum was a testament to the island's commitment to preserving its cultural heritage, a reminder that history is not just about dates and events, but about the stories of real people and their enduring connection to the land.

Before dinner, I stopped by Pukaridō, a local shop known for its Yakushima products and handicrafts [i, 4, 13, 14, 15].


Explore Pukaridō in Yakushima for unique souvenirs and local liquors, capturing the essence of this beautiful island.

I wanted to find a small souvenir to bring back to Aino, a tangible reminder of my adventures on the island. The shop was filled with an array of unique items, from Yakusugi accessories to local sweets and delicacies. I finally settled on a small, hand-carved wooden bear, a nod to my Alaskan roots and a symbol of the island's abundant wildlife. I knew Aino would love it, a small piece of Yakushima to cherish back in Helsinki.

As evening approached, I made my way to Wakadaisho for dinner [i].


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

The restaurant, recommended by a local I met at the museum, was a cozy and welcoming establishment, serving traditional Yakushima cuisine. I ordered the *kibinago* (silver-stripe round herring) which was delicious. The flavors were bold and authentic, a perfect end to a day of exploration and discovery.

Tomorrow, I plan to see Daio Sugi, and the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse [i]. I also plan to visit Ganta bar for a drink [i]. As I reflect on the day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima. It's a place that nourishes the soul, reminding us of the importance of nature, history, and human connection. And as I drift off to sleep, I can still hear the echoes of the drum, the whispers of the forest, and the stories of the island, all woven into the fabric of my dreams.