A Solo Pilgrimage: Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Day of Reflection and Discovery

Today was a day where the past felt incredibly present. The ancient stones beneath my feet seemed to hum with stories, and the rustling leaves whispered secrets of pilgrims long gone. It was a day of gentle ascents, quiet contemplation, and unexpected delights, perfectly encapsulating the spirit of the Kumano Kodo. It was a day that reminded me why I embarked on this solo pilgrimage in the first place.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. The cafe's name, meaning 'Kumano Vegetable,' immediately resonated with me, a testament to the owner Shino's appreciation for local produce. I savored a cheese bagel, the perfect fuel for the day's adventures. The cozy atmosphere and Shino's friendly demeanor set a positive tone for the day. Before leaving, I made sure to thank Shino for her hospitality and grab a few extra snacks for the trail. It's always a pleasure to support local businesses that are passionate about what they do.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

With a full stomach and a light heart, I set off to explore the Koyazaka Slope. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of damp earth and cedar. As I started my ascent, I couldn't help but think of Aino and Markus back in Helsinki. Aino would have loved the vibrant flora, her keen eyes spotting every tiny detail, while Markus, ever the pragmatist, would have appreciated the well-maintained paths. I made a mental note to find a small, moss-covered stone to bring back for Aino; she has a fascination with collecting natural treasures.


Discover the enchanting Koyazaka Slope in Wakayama, a captivating hiking area rich in history and breathtaking views, perfect for all nature lovers.

The Koyazaka Slope is a beautiful segment of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, inviting travelers to explore its charming trails that meander through lush greenery. The path was lined with ancient trees, their gnarled roots clinging to the earth, testaments to centuries of weathering storms and witnessing countless journeys. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating dappled patterns on the moss-covered stones. I paused frequently, breathing in the fresh air and listening to the sounds of the forest – the chirping of birds, the rustling of leaves, and the distant murmur of a stream.

The true beauty of a pilgrimage lies not in the destination, but in the journey itself.

As I climbed higher, the trees occasionally parted to reveal breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. The observation deck offered an unparalleled vantage point, perfect for photography enthusiasts and those looking to enjoy a moment of tranquility amidst nature's splendor. I took a moment to simply stand and absorb the panoramic vista. The vast expanse of green hills stretching towards the horizon was a humbling reminder of the world's grandeur and my small place within it.

Continuing along the path, I came across the Magohachi Jizo, a small statue welcoming visitors to the Kumano area. I paused to offer a silent prayer for safe travels and for peace in the world. It's these small, unassuming monuments that often carry the deepest significance, reminding us of the enduring human desire for connection and protection.

After descending the Koyazaka Slope, my next destination was Tokei Shrine. This Shinto shrine, added to the UNESCO World Heritage site in 2016, is known as the gateway to the Kumano Kodo. As I approached, I was immediately struck by the serene atmosphere and the lush natural surroundings. The shrine grounds are home to many ancient Camphor trees, the oldest estimated to be 1200 years old.


Experience the tranquil beauty of Tokei Shrine in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential spiritual and historical attraction for every traveler.

I explored the shrine grounds, admiring the traditional Japanese architecture and the beautifully maintained gardens. I participated in a traditional ritual, drawing an omikuji (fortune slip). The message was one of encouragement and perseverance, which I took to heart as a reminder to stay strong and focused on my journey. The shrine enshrines all the kami that are enshrined in the Kumano Sanzan, the three big shrines of Hongu, Shingu, and Nachi. Pilgrims would pray here for a safe journey into the interior, and in some cases, because the pilgrimage route was at times heavily traveled by bandits and robbers, pilgrims would go no further and worship from afar here. Tokei Shrine is also closely tied to the warrior-monk Benkei, with a statue depicting him with his father and some chickens. According to the story, Benkei's father was asked for support from both sides of the conflict known as the Genpei War between the Taira and Minamoto clans. Unable to decide, he staged a series of cock fights between cocks with red and white feathers, representing each side of the conflict. The cocks with white feathers won and so he chose to support the Minamoto.

For lunch, I stopped at Yorozuya Eatery. I enjoyed a simple yet satisfying meal, savoring the flavors of local ingredients. It was a welcome break after a morning of hiking and exploration. I reflected on the morning's experiences while eating, appreciating the blend of natural beauty and historical significance that defines the Kumano Kodo.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

As evening approached, I sought out Sansaro Cafe for dinner. This cafe and guesthouse is known for its mountain-side location in Kumano-gawa village. The owner, Ms. Uzawa, opened it in 2014 after falling in love with the natural surroundings. The cafe overlooks the Akagi-gawa river and rice fields with mountains framing the horizon. I enjoyed a delicious meal while listening to music. Ms. Uzawa is interested in yoga, music, food, and healing, all of which contribute to the cafe's unique atmosphere.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

Before heading back to Jokiin, I decided to experience the local nightlife at Why Kumano. This hostel and cafe bar is conveniently located near Kii-Katsuura train station. I enjoyed a local craft beer, chatting with fellow travelers and locals alike. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. The staff was friendly and helpful, providing valuable local information. The name “Why Kumano” is, as the name suggests—Why Kumano? It is a simple question, but there is no simple answer. They prepare special experiences unique to this area and provide a place to connect you with Kumano's everyday life.


Discover Why Kumano: A tranquil bar, hotel, and café experience in the heart of Wakayama's serene landscape.

As I walked back to my accommodation, the stars began to emerge, twinkling in the clear night sky. The day's journey had been a reminder of the power of nature, the importance of history, and the simple joys of human connection. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the Kumano Kodo and to connect with its rich spiritual heritage.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my journey along the Kumano Kodo, visiting Tsugizakura-Oji and crossing the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass. I'm looking forward to more moments of reflection, discovery, and connection on this sacred path.

Back at Jokiin, I journaled about my experiences, recording the day's events and my reflections on them. Writing helps me process my thoughts and feelings, allowing me to fully appreciate the journey I'm on. As I drift off to sleep, I feel a sense of peace and contentment, knowing that each day on the Kumano Kodo brings me closer to a deeper understanding of myself and the world around me.

I am also grateful for the opportunity to share my experiences with you, dear readers. I hope that my words inspire you to embark on your own journeys of discovery, whether they be physical, spiritual, or emotional. The world is full of wonders waiting to be explored, and the greatest adventure of all is the journey within ourselves.

Goodnight from the Kumano Kodo.