A Solo Pilgrimage: Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Earth

Today's adventure was a deep dive into the natural artistry of the Kumano region. I traded the serene trails for a day of exploring gorges and caves, seeking out the hidden wonders tucked away in this corner of Japan. It was a day of contrasts, from the vibrant hues of the Doro Kyo Gorge to the silent, ancient depths of the Totsui Limestone Cave.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast, fueling up with rice, miso soup, and grilled fish, ready for a day of exploration. This cafe is near Kumanoshi station.

Doro Kyo Gorge: A River Runs Through It

The Doro Kyo Gorge was my first destination, and it was nothing short of breathtaking. The gorge is part of the Yoshino-Kumano National Park. I decided to take a boat tour to fully appreciate the landscape. The boat wound its way through the towering cliffs, the water a stunning emerald green. The autumn colors were just beginning to appear, with hints of red and gold dotting the mountainsides. I can only imagine how beautiful the entire gorge will look when the leaves fully change. The boat tour took about 40 minutes and cost 3000 yen.

The boatmen were incredibly friendly, offering insights into the gorge’s history and geology, even with the language barrier. They pointed out unique rock formations, including one that resembled a crouching animal. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. It reminded me of hiking in Alaska, but with a uniquely Japanese twist. It was so peaceful and breathtaking.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found not on well-trodden paths, but in the hidden corners of the earth.

After the boat tour, I took some time to walk along the gorge, soaking in the scenery from different vantage points. I found a quiet spot by the river to sit and sketch in my travel journal. The reflections of the cliffs in the water created a mirror image, blurring the line between reality and art. I could have stayed there for hours, lost in the beauty of the moment. It's definitely a hidden gem.

Lunch with a View

For lunch, I stopped at Watarase Onsen Cafe. It's part of a large onsen and hotel complex. I enjoyed a light meal of soba noodles and tempura, savoring the flavors while overlooking the river. The cafe had a relaxed atmosphere, and I enjoyed chatting with some fellow travelers about their Kumano Kodo experiences. The Watarase Onsen looked inviting, but I decided to save the onsen experience for another day.

Delving into the Depths of Totsui Limestone Cave

My afternoon was dedicated to exploring the Totsui Limestone Cave. This cave was formed over 250 million years ago. It is the only limestone cave in Wakayama Prefecture. The cave is only open to the public on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 9 am to 5 pm. I was lucky that today was Tuesday, a national holiday, so it was open. The entrance fee was 500 yen. The road to the cave was narrow and winding, so I had to drive carefully.

Inside, the cave was cool and damp, a welcome respite from the autumn sun. Stalactites and stalagmites adorned the cave, creating intricate patterns and shapes. The lighting was dim, adding to the mysterious atmosphere. I felt like I was stepping back in time, exploring a hidden world that had been forming for millennia. It felt like a romantic underground walk.

The cave is relatively small, only about 100 meters long. It didn't take long to walk through, but I lingered, marveling at the natural formations. The air was still and silent, amplifying the sense of wonder. It was amazing to see the stalactites up close.

A Taste of Local Flavors

Dinner tonight was at Akihei in Tanabe. This restaurant has been around for 150 years and is now run by the 5th generation. The owner, Kennis, speaks English, Japanese, and Chinese. I had a bento set with tempura, sashimi, and miso soup. The food was excellent and the service was great. It felt like eating in someone's home.

A Thoughtful End to the Day

Before heading back to Jokiin, I stopped by Iseya, a shop in Yunomine Onsen. I didn’t buy anything, but it was nice to walk around and see the local crafts. Iseya is a Japanese inn similar to a guesthouse.

As I reflect on the day, I am struck by the sheer diversity of experiences the Kumano region offers. From the vibrant Doro Kyo Gorge to the silent depths of the Totsui Limestone Cave, each location held its own unique charm. It's a reminder that sometimes the most rewarding adventures are found in the unexpected corners of the world. I am so glad I decided to come here on my own.

Tomorrow, I'm looking forward to returning to the Kumano Kodo trail, specifically the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. I plan to hike to the Fushiogami Teahouse. I will have breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. I will also stop by Toretore Market. I wonder what tomorrow will bring.


Discover the breathtaking landscapes and tranquil beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan, a paradise for nature lovers and adventurers.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.


Experience traditional Japanese hospitality at Iseya, a budget-friendly inn in Tanabe, Wakayama, perfect for relaxing getaways and cultural exploration.