A Solo Pilgrimage: Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past
Today was a day of quiet contemplation, a gentle unfolding of history and healing along the Kumano Kodo. Leaving Koya behind, I journeyed deeper into the heart of Wakayama, eager to experience the famed Tsubo-yu Onsen and the ancient Asuka Shrine. It felt like stepping back in time, each location resonating with stories of pilgrims, emperors, and the enduring spirit of Japan.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. Shino, the owner, greeted me with a warm smile and a delicious spread of homemade baked goods. I savored a cheese bagel, which came with an assortment of small veggie dishes and a warming soup. The cafe was cozy, a perfect spot to recharge before the day’s adventures. Shino was also incredibly helpful, providing useful information about the area and the trails ahead. She told me about how the cafe's name reflects her appreciation for the local vegetables of the Kumano region. It was a delightful start, and I felt grateful for the local insights.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are those taken in quiet solitude, where the whispers of the past become the soundtrack to your present.

Next on the itinerary was the legendary Tsubo-yu Onsen. Nestled in Yunomine, this onsen is not just any hot spring; it's a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the oldest bathing spots in Japan. The anticipation had been building, and I was eager to experience its reputed healing waters. The onsen is a tiny wooden cabin set atop the river, housing a small rock bath just big enough for two people.

I arrived to find a small queue, which gave me time to soak in the atmosphere of Yunomine, a quaint village known for its onsen. Unlike the large, modern onsen resorts I’ve seen elsewhere, Yunomine felt intimate and authentic, with small wooden houses dotting the mountain slopes. Finally, my turn arrived. I paid the 750 yen fee and stepped into the cabin. The water was wonderfully hot, containing sulfur, sodium, and hydrogen carbonate, said to be effective for neuralgia, rheumatism, diabetes, and skin diseases. Whether or not it was the minerals, the sheer novelty of bathing in such a historic and unique location was therapeutic. I spent my allotted 30 minutes soaking away the aches from the past days of hiking, feeling a deep sense of connection to the countless pilgrims who had sought solace in these same waters.

Legend has it that the waters change color seven times a day due to chemical reactions between the sulfur and oxygen. While I didn't witness all seven changes, the water did have a mystical quality, as if holding secrets of centuries past. I couldn’t help but recall the story of Oguri Hangan, the 15th-century prince who was said to have been healed in these very waters. It’s stories like these that add to the magic of Kumano Kodo, blending folklore with the tangible beauty of the landscape.

After the onsen, I was ready for lunch. I headed to Yorozuya Eatery, a local spot known for its Monjayaki and Okonomiyaki. Though it was a little tricky to find tucked away in a back alley, it was well worth the effort. I decided on Okonomiyaki, a savory pancake filled with various ingredients. It was hearty and flavorful, a perfect way to refuel after a morning of exploration. The restaurant had a cozy, familiar atmosphere, and the staff were incredibly welcoming. It felt like stepping into someone’s home, a far cry from the impersonal restaurants of the city. I even chatted briefly with a local family who recommended some other hidden gems in the area. It’s these small, authentic interactions that make traveling so rewarding. Markus would have loved this place, he enjoys trying new foods.

With renewed energy, I set off to Asuka Shrine. This ancient shrine, dating back to 423 BC, is said to be built on the spot where Jofuku, a Chinese envoy, first landed in his quest for the elixir of life. The shrine is located at the foot of Mt. Horaisan, adding to its serene and mystical setting. As I approached, I was struck by the sense of history permeating the air. The shrine is related to the three Kumano Sanzan shrines, further solidifying its importance in the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

The grounds of Asuka Shrine were peaceful, with towering trees and moss-covered stones. I visited the Jofuku Shrine within the grounds, dedicated to the Chinese envoy who, according to legend, taught the local people shipbuilding, whaling, agriculture, and papermaking. It was fascinating to see the blend of cultures and the long-standing connections between Japan and China. I also explored the Miyaido Ruins, dedicated to the Sanskrit engraved rocky mountains in the area. The shrine's Treasure House contains several kakebotoke, Buddhist images representing the kami of the shrine. The syncretism of religions in the Kumano region is evident here, reflecting the harmonious coexistence of Shinto and Buddhism for centuries.

Before dinner, I stopped by Hashiori-jaya, a charming shop and café adjoining the Chikatsuyu Oji shrine. It's a perfect spot to find local pottery, dyed goods, miso, and other regional specialties. I picked up a small, hand-painted pottery bowl as a memento of my journey. They also have a footbath where you can soothe tired feet while enjoying coffee.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to dinner at Hinoki Steak House. After days of traditional Japanese cuisine, I was craving something a bit different, and Hinoki came highly recommended. The restaurant has been around for over half a century, run by a friendly chef who continues his father’s legacy. I opted for the Kumano beef steak, cooked to perfection. It was delicious and comforting, a perfect end to a day of exploration. The chef was incredibly welcoming, and we chatted about the history of the restaurant and his passion for cooking. He even had a map where visitors could mark their origins, a testament to the restaurant’s international appeal.

As I reflect on today's experiences, I’m struck by the profound sense of peace and connection I’ve found along the Kumano Kodo. The blend of natural beauty, ancient history, and warm hospitality is truly captivating. Tomorrow, I plan to continue my journey along the Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route, visiting the Inabaneoji Shrine. I’m looking forward to more moments of quiet contemplation and discovery as I immerse myself in the spiritual heart of Japan.

I'm also mindful of the essentials I forgot to pack – sunscreen and a local phrasebook. The weather has been pleasantly mild, but the sun can still be strong, and a few basic Japanese phrases would undoubtedly enhance my interactions with the locals. I’ll make sure to pick these up tomorrow before hitting the trail. Now, as I prepare for my final day on the Kumano Kodo, I feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences I’ve had and excitement for what lies ahead. The journey continues, and I am eager to see what other treasures this sacred path holds.