A Solo Pilgrimage: Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Past

Today was a day of deep reflection and historical immersion. As I continued my solo pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo, I found myself tracing the footsteps of countless travelers who have sought solace and spiritual renewal in this sacred region for centuries. The crisp October air and the vibrant hues of autumn painted a breathtaking backdrop as I explored ancient shrines and historical sites, each holding a unique piece of Japan's rich cultural tapestry. The journey was more than just a hike; it was a dialogue with the past, a communion with nature, and a profound experience of self-discovery.

After a restful night, I started my day with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. The simple, traditional Japanese fare was the perfect fuel for the day’s adventures. It was a casual spot, and I enjoyed overhearing snippets of conversations from fellow travelers, each with their own story to tell. I overheard one person mention cooking eggs in the hot springs, which sounded like a very unique experience.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.
My first destination was Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano Sanzan. As I approached the shrine, I climbed the 158 stone steps leading to the main hall. The path was lined with cedar trees, their towering presence creating a sense of reverence and tranquility. The air was filled with the scent of wood and earth, grounding me in the present moment. I paused to catch my breath, taking in the panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, their slopes ablaze with autumn colors. It struck me how the natural environment was so integral to the spiritual significance of the place.


Discover the spiritual beauty of Kumano Hongu Taisha, a historic Shinto shrine in Wakayama, Japan, renowned for its stunning architecture and serene landscapes.
I learned that Kumano Hongu Taisha holds a significant place in Japanese history and culture. It has been a pilgrimage site for over a thousand years, attracting people from all walks of life, from emperors to commoners. The shrine is dedicated to the deity Susanoo-no-Mikoto, revered as the god of trees. This connection to nature resonates deeply with me, reminding me of the ancient forests of Finland and the deep respect for nature that is ingrained in Nordic culture. The shrine is known as a place of rebirth, adding a layer of depth to the spiritual experience.

Exploring the shrine complex, I admired the traditional Japanese architecture, characterized by the use of natural, unfinished materials that blend seamlessly with the environment. I was particularly intrigued by the unique corridor beneath the verandas, a space once used by pilgrims for meditation and prayer. I tried to imagine what it must have been like to seek refuge in that tiny space, communing with the Kumano deities. It was in this sacred asylum that Saint Ippen Shonin, a Buddhist monk, is said to have attained enlightenment.

To walk the Kumano Kodo is to step back in time, to connect with the spiritual heart of Japan, and to find a sense of peace amidst the beauty of nature.

After spending a few hours at Kumano Hongu Taisha, I made my way to Oyunohara, the original location of the shrine. A short walk from the present shrine grounds, Oyunohara is now marked by a giant torii gate, the largest in the world. Standing at an impressive 33.9 meters tall and 42 meters wide, the Otorii symbolizes the entrance to a sacred realm, a division between the secular and the spiritual. As I approached the gate, I felt a sense of awe wash over me, a feeling of being transported to another world.


Discover Oyunohara, the former sacred grounds of Kumano Hongu Taisha, and witness Japan's largest Torii gate, a symbol of spiritual heritage.
I learned that the original Kumano Hongu Taisha was located at Oyunohara until 1889, when a devastating flood destroyed much of the shrine complex. The surviving structures were relocated to the present site, leaving Oyunohara as a vast sandbank at the confluence of the Kumano and Otonashi Rivers. Despite the relocation, Oyunohara remains a sacred site, revered as the place where the Kumano deities descended in the form of three moons.

As I walked through the Otorii gate, I felt a sense of stepping into a space charged with history and spirituality. The sandbank was quiet, save for the gentle rustling of the wind through the trees. I could almost imagine the grand shrine that once stood here, its five main pavilions and numerous smaller temples teeming with pilgrims and priests. I paused to reflect on the impermanence of things, the ebb and flow of time, and the enduring power of faith.

For lunch, I stopped at the Fushiogami Teahouse, a charming café along the Kumano Kodo. The teahouse is known for its traditional Japanese teas and snacks, offering a moment of respite for weary travelers. I enjoyed a cup of matcha, its earthy flavor both soothing and invigorating. The serene setting of the teahouse, with its views of lush greenery and tranquil surroundings, was the perfect place to unwind and reflect on the morning’s experiences.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.
In the afternoon, I did a bit of shopping at Triple Kumano Kodo JAPAN. It was a great place to pick up some mementos of my pilgrimage, and I found a beautiful hand-painted scroll depicting the Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow that is a symbol of Kumano. The Yatagarasu is said to have guided Emperor Jimmu, the first emperor of Japan, on his journey from Kumano to Yamato, and is revered as a symbol of guidance and safe travel. Given my tendency to get lost even with a map, I figured having a symbol of guidance couldn’t hurt!


Explore local crafts and delightful souvenirs at the Triple Kumano Kodo Souvenir Store, a unique stop along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.
As the sun began to set, I made my way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. After a day of walking and contemplation, I was ready for a hearty meal. The steak house is known for its excellent Wagyu steak and hamburger sets, and I decided to try the Kumano beef steak. The steak was cooked to perfection, its tender, juicy texture melting in my mouth. The chef was friendly and welcoming, and we chatted about the history of the restaurant and the local area. It was a delightful end to a day filled with spiritual and historical exploration.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.
Tomorrow, I plan to visit Kumano-Nachi Taisha and Nachi Waterfall, continuing my exploration of the sacred sites of Kumano. I am looking forward to seeing the stunning natural beauty of the waterfall and learning more about the history and significance of the shrine. I am also planning to visit Seiganto-ji Temple, which is located next to Nachi Waterfall. It will be another day of immersing myself in the spiritual and natural wonders of this ancient pilgrimage route.

As I reflect on today’s journey, I am struck by the profound sense of peace and connection I feel with this land. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it is a pathway to self-discovery, a bridge to the past, and a celebration of the enduring power of faith. The weather in October has been mostly cooperative, with comfortable temperatures and occasional rain showers. I am grateful for the opportunity to walk in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims and to experience the spiritual heart of Japan.

I’m also realizing I forgot to pack sunscreen, a rookie mistake! I’ll definitely need to pick some up tomorrow. And perhaps a local phrasebook, as I’m finding my Japanese is a bit rusty. But for now, I’m content to rest and prepare for another day of adventure on the Kumano Kodo.