A Solo Pilgrimage: Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Day of Divine Encounters

Today was a day of profound spiritual connection and delightful culinary experiences. The ancient paths of Kumano Kodo led me to sacred sites, each with its own unique story and energy. I felt a sense of peace and reflection wash over me as I explored these remarkable places.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. Nestled along the Kumano Kodo trail, this charming cafe is known for its welcoming atmosphere and delicious homemade baked goods. The owner, Shino, greeted me with a warm smile, and I quickly settled in with a steaming cup of coffee and a cheese bagel. The bagel came with an assortment of small veggie dishes and a flavorful soup, a perfect start to a day of exploration. I overheard Shino speaking English fluently with other travelers, offering helpful tips and information about the area. It was evident that this cafe is more than just a place to eat; it’s a hub for travelers seeking connection and guidance. It reminded me of the small cafes Markus and I used to frequent in our early days in Helsinki, where the sense of community was just as important as the coffee itself.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

Refueled and ready, I set off to visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a grand shrine located at the mouth of the Kumano-gawa River. The shrine's location, where the waters from the Kii Mountains meet the Pacific Ocean, is incredibly striking. As I approached, I was immediately struck by the serene atmosphere and the sense of history that permeated the air. The shrine is surrounded by lush greenery, and the sound of the nearby river added to the tranquility. I took my time to wander through the grounds, admiring the intricate architecture and the meticulous attention to detail. I learned that the nature around the shrine is integral to its rituals. An ancient, 800-year-old Nagi-no-Ki tree stands proudly within the grounds, symbolizing the deep tradition of nature worship in the area.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

The journey is the destination, and every step on the Kumano Kodo is a step closer to understanding oneself and the world.

Kumano Hayatama Taisha is not only a place of spiritual significance but also a site of vibrant cultural events. Although I didn't witness it today, I learned that the Mifune Matsuri takes place annually on October 16th. During this festival, nine boats race up the Kumano-gawa River to Mifune-jima Island, a tradition rooted in the area's shipbuilding history. It’s fascinating to think about the generations of people who have gathered here to celebrate their heritage and honor their gods. Before heading to the next stop, I picked up some persimmon leaf-wrapped sushi from Kakinoate for a later lunch. Persimmon leaf sushi is a regional delicacy, and I was eager to try it.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

Next on my itinerary was Kamikura Shrine, an ancient site perched atop Mt. Gongen-yama. Reaching the shrine required climbing 538 steep stone steps, a challenge that tested my stamina but rewarded me with breathtaking views. Some of the steps were so steep that I had to use my hands to steady myself, but I pressed on, driven by a desire to reach the sacred site at the summit. As I ascended, I couldn't help but think of Aino, my daughter, and how she would have loved this climb. She has always been drawn to adventurous challenges. When I finally reached the top, I was greeted by a massive, sacred rock called Gotobiki-iwa, revered as the dwelling place of one of the shrine's deities. The panoramic views of the Shingu area and the Kumano-nada Sea were simply stunning. It was a moment of pure awe, a feeling of being on top of the world, both physically and spiritually.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

Kamikura Shrine is also known for the Oto Matsuri, a fire festival held every year on February 6th. During this event, men clad in white run down the mountain with lit torches in the dark, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. I can only imagine the energy and excitement of that night, the flames illuminating the darkness and the cheers of the crowd echoing through the mountains. The shrine is one of the oldest sacred places in the Kumano area, predating even Hayatama Taisha.

After a day of exploring sacred sites, I was ready for a relaxing evening. I decided to have dinner at Hinoki Steak House, a local restaurant known for its excellent steak and seafood. The restaurant has a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, and the proprietor made me feel right at home. I opted for the Wagyu steak set, and it was absolutely divine. The steak was cooked to perfection, tender and juicy, and the accompanying soup, salad, and veggies were equally delicious. It was the perfect way to end a day of hiking and spiritual exploration. The chef was incredibly friendly and even marked my home city of Helsinki on a world map he keeps in the restaurant, tracking the origins of his visitors. It’s these small touches that make a dining experience truly memorable. I learned that Hinoki Steak House has been around for over half a century and is now run by the second-generation owner, who continues his father's legacy.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

To cap off the evening, I ventured to Wine Kumano, a stylish bar that offers a selection of natural wines, craft beers, and specialty coffee. It’s located in a small fisherman town. The atmosphere was laid-back and inviting, and I enjoyed sampling some local craft beers while chatting with the friendly staff. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences. Sipping on a glass of wine, I thought about the incredible journey I had undertaken so far. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a path to self-discovery and spiritual awakening.


Discover the perfect blend of local flavors and fine wines at Wine Kumano, a hidden gem in Wakayama's culinary scene.

As I prepare for tomorrow's adventure to Doro Kyo Gorge and Totsui Limestone Cave, I feel a sense of anticipation and excitement. I'm eager to explore more of this beautiful region and uncover its hidden gems. Tomorrow promises new adventures, with a visit to the breathtaking Doro Kyo Gorge and the intriguing Totsui Limestone Cave [Doro Kyo Gorge, Totsui Limestone Cave]. I’m also looking forward to trying the local cuisine at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan for breakfast and Watarase onsen cafe for lunch [Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, Watarase onsen cafe]. And perhaps a bit of shopping at Iseya [Iseya]. Good night from Kumano Kodo.

I'm so grateful for the opportunity to share my experiences with you, and I hope that my words inspire you to embark on your own journey of discovery. Whether you're seeking spiritual enlightenment, outdoor adventure, or simply a change of scenery, the Kumano Kodo has something to offer everyone. Safe travels, and I'll see you on the trail!